Reverse Engineering THE REAL NYC Bagel
Hello Bakers,
I have an obsession with the bagels I grew up with in NY. I have been trying to reproduce this ever since leaving NY. There have been plenty of attempts producing good bagels, however they are not NYC bagels. The recipes online that claim to be NYC bagels are also not NYC bagels. Again, they will produce good bagels, but not the NYC bagel shop style bagels. I am not convinced "its the water".
I am going for the Absolute Bagel, Essa-Bagel, Tompkins Bagel experience. There are some videos on YouTube that show parts of the bagel process but what I am lacking are the finer details such as resting times between kneading, rolling, bath ingredients, etc.
I have tried the Jeffrey Hamel and Peter Reinhart recipes. They are both good, but do not produce commercial style NYC bagels. Most recipes either produce a crust that resembles a pretzel or an inner texture that is way too dense.
My biggest issue at the moment is that the bagels do not plump up that much, they tend to be flat. I have the wooden bagel boards, food grade lye, diastatic malt powder, malt syrup, all the stuff I think I need. Just need to put it all together.
I am not really sure what I am doing wrong. It certainly isn't boiling time, I have gone down to 45 seconds on each side. When I watch videos from bagel shops their dough seems much more elastic and airy. In the attached screen capture from Tompkins, the bagel maker places rolled bagels tightly onto a dusted wooden bread sheet. They are already much plumper than mine at this stage.
I am beginning to think the actual recipe is a closely guarded secret. Some say that the recipe bagel shops use now isn't the real one dating back to the beginnings, but I'm not interested in being authentic to the origins.
If anyone has experience working in the bagel business, or knows how to make these bagels, please help!
Thanks for reading.
How well are you matching the flour?
The bakery would have used 50 pound bags, which are noticeably fresher than 5 lb grocery store bags that have sat on shelves for months. Flour moves through the commercial channel much faster than the retail grocery channel.
"My biggest issue at the moment is that the bagels do not plump up that much, they tend to be flat. "
There could also be an issue regarding bleached and bromated flour. The bakeries may have used bleached/bromated, or unbleached/bromated. For All Trumps, I think it comes in 3 different styles/combinations.
I realize home bakers like to avoid bleached and bromated flours, but that just might be part of the puzzle.
Update: I just checked, and All Trumps comes in 3 varieties:
https://www.generalmillscf.com/products/category/flour
Under the Hard Spring Wheat category
Thanks for the response. I'm using King Arthur High Gluten flour, and saf-instant yeast. Maybe the flour im using is too fancy. I have no idea what these bagel shops are using though.
Another video of Ess-a Bagel shows what appears to be Pillsbury balancer high gluten enriched.
https://www.roundeyesupply.com/Flour-Balancer-Bleached-High-Gluten-Pillsbury-p/DE405399.htm
Screen Shot 2021-07-16 at 5.15.55 PM.png
Good job. That is a bleached and bromated flour.
Can also be seen at the General Mills website.
Be advised that it comes in both Enriched and not-Enriched versions. Though I don't think that makes as much difference as bleached/bromated.
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Also be advised you may not have to order it shipped long distance. Due to Covid, many restaurant/bakery/pizzeria suppliers are now selling to the public via counter sales. Use the General Mills web site to look up a supplier near you. Pillsbury is a GM company.
I am unaware if General Mills All Trumps bleached/bromated/enriched matches Pillsbury Balancer bleached/bromated/enriched.
KA flour is definitely unbleached and unbromated.
Some detective work is called for.
I have 3 ideas/suggestions for getting the inside scoop.
1. Call/email some iconic NYC Jewish/bagel bakery and ask to speak to an actual baker, and just ask what exact flour they use, brand name, product name, even part/SKU #, bleached or unbleached, bromated or unbromated.
2. Call a General Mills flour distributor in the greater NYC area, and ask what flour they usually sell to Jewish bagel bakeries in NYC. See the above General Mills page, and go to an individual flour's web page, and then enter a NYC zip code in the distributor lookup box.
3. Contact Jewish baking author Stanley Ginsberg at www.theryebaker.com, or look up his username here and send him a PM.
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Other ideas:
Get the iconic Jewish baking books and try their formulas:
1. Secrets of a Jewish Baker, by George Greenstein. https://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Jewish-Baker-Recipes-Breads-ebook/dp/B00CGI3INK/
and:
2. Inside the Jewish Bakery - Bagels, Rolls and Bialys, by Stanley Ginsberg: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJW1ZDK
and get the latter's errata file at: https://www.stanleyginsbergbooks.com/ITJB/files/IJB_Errata.pdf
Those are good suggestions. I am beginning to understand some differences between the traditional Jewish bagel recipe and the current commercial recipe.
Mark Strausmans video does a good job showing the old fashioned recipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrJ1zpJGrfA&t=30s
They begin with a sponge to begin the aging process, then add to it. Commercial bakeries skip this step. I think since bromated flour is stronger they can just mix all the ingredients together and shape the bagels almost instantly. They hold their shape pretty much during the whole process. At least that is my theory.
So maybe the secret isn't NYC water, but using carcinogenic bromated flour?
If I may ask, what exactly are the characteristics of the NYC bagel you are aiming for?
The NYC bagels are indeed wonderful but I have to try the names you have mentioned above.
Hard to explain but there is a certain texture the crust is thin but firm with some blistering. Crumb is chewy but not dense. See all the varying sized air pockets. Their dough is stronger and rises better than any of my attempts.
I see now. Surprisingly I have found some good places in Cali where I see the blistering and tastes great too.
Thanks
Was doing research and noticed your post from a few years ago. Did you ever perfect your method? Can you share what you’ve learned? Trying to make NY bagels at home! Thanks