Book Review: "In Search of the Perfect Loaf," by Samuel Fromartz

In Search of the Perfect Loaf is a book about the quest of a “SHB.” Those letters stand for “Serious Home Baker,” and that is the term used within the baking community for those of us who strive to make at home what Peter Reinhart described as “world-class, conversation-stopping bread.” (Crust & Crumb: Master Formulas for Serious Bread Bakers, Ten Speed Press, Berkeley, 1998, p.1) We know we can make better bread at home than most of us can buy where we live and bread as good, or almost as good, as that produced by the best bakeries in the world. At least, we could if we only knew _____. (You fill in the blank.) Sam Fromartz is one of us. That’s clear.

Lucky Sam, a free-lance journalist as well as a SHB, had the opportunity to fill in his personal blanks. He has shared his search, his discoveries and some of the breads he developed as a result of them with us in this book.

 This is not a bread “cookbook.” Yes, there are a few recipes for bread, and they look to be good ones. But, it is really a book about the search itself and what one learns about bread and baking and yourself in pursuing the search. It is not just about how to manufacture a product by following a protocol, but about learning the science of bread (microbiology and biochemistry, especially), the economics and politics of big agriculture and the social, nutritional and ethical consequences of choosing crafted rather than  manufactured food. It is also about the peculiar combination of personal rewards that baking bread provides, the rewards that come from making something fine, the personal growth from learning the science and the craft of bread baking,  from having delicious bread on your table and, not by any means the least, the joy of providing nurturance to your family and friends.

 In Search of the Perfect Loaf addresses each of these topics with enough detail to provide the reader a lucid overview as well as a great deal of pertinent information, for example about the hazards attendant to losing genetic diversity in our grains as a result of monoclonal agricultural practices. These are issues about which the community of serious bakers, including both professionals and home bakers, is concerned at this time. These are global issues and are being discussed around the world. And they are consequential, not just in terms of having tasty, attractive things to eat, but for our global food supply as we confront (or refuse to confront) the impact of climate change on how and where we produce the nutriments an expanding world population needs to be healthy and, even, to survive. 

Fromartz deals with these big topics with the skills of a good reporter. He has checked his facts. He has demystified complex topics. He has provided the reader with good, trustworthy information that we can and should use to make personal and political choices. But, In Search of a Perfect Loaf  is really a happy book about the joys of learning and making and nurturing. Those who have already discovered for themselves the challenges and rewards of the Search will recognize Sam Fromartz as a brother. But I don’t think you need to be a bread baker to enjoy this book. It is beautifully written. It’s a good story. And maybe it will inspire some to join the Search themselves.

David