The Fresh Loaf

A Community of Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts.

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ll433's picture
ll433

I asked the husband for a bread challenge yesterday and he said why not make an airy and not dense free-form 100% ancient grain loaf?

I thought I might as well take the opportunity to conduct some experiments regarding hydration levels of levains, pH levels and resulting crumb/taste. Since I didn't have enough emmer left, I went with einkorn. (Forgot I had an unopened bag of Khorasan in the cabinet - damn! Next time.)

I began last night by making three different levains.

Levain 1 had starter:einkorn:water ratio of 1:4:4, totalling 108g (I call this the liquid einkorn levain).

Levain 2 had starter:einkorn:water ratio of 1:4:3, totalling 96g (I call this the stiff einkorn levain).

Levain 3 had starter:rye:white AP:water ratio of 1:2:2:4, totalling 108g (I call this the rye-AP levain, and it's essentially a refresh of my mother culture).

I expected Levain 1 to be the most acidic, and Levain 2 to be the least acidic.

Levains after rising overnight for 11 hours at 20 degrees:

I'm not so surprised that the rye-AP levain rose more than the liquid Einkorn levain, but I'm very surprised that the stiff Einkorn levain rose to almost as high as the liquid Einkorn (remember that the stiff levain is 12g less than the others).

pH levels:

Rye-AP levain: 4.05; Stiff Einkorn levain: 4.33; Liquid Einkorn levain: 4.22

I'm so surprised that the Rye-AP levain became more acidic than the Einkorns. We can also see that the stiff Einkorn levain is less acidic than the liquid Einkorn levain.

I proceeded to make three mini loaves by adding 78g of Einkorn to each levain, and water to make up to 75% hydration of the total loaf. BF and final proof took 4.5 hours - not surprising given that PFF is 40%. Added poppy seeds, walnuts and cranberries. I baked them at 220 degrees for 25 mins.

Results:

It's hard to see from the picture, but the rye-AP had a substantially better rise, followed by the one made with the stiff levain, and then the one with the liquid levain. All loaves had the same 75% hydration.

Crumb shots:

I subjected the husband to a taste test.

In first place was the loaf made with rye-AP: "This loaf has quite a nice flavour. It's the most bready of all three loaves."

In second place was the 100% Einkorn loaf made with stiff starter: "This has an interesting crust. It's almost like a cookie crust rather than a bread crust. Taste is very earthy and nutty." (Agreed. The crust is really interesting.)

In third place was the 100% Einkorn loaf made with liquid starter: "I don't know what to say about this. It's quite similar to loaf number 2 but a little more dense, slightly more sour, less airy."

So there we are. Takeaways for me for future 100% Einkorn loafs: Use a stiff starter, make bigger loaves, and I think retain the same hydration (messy, but really nice crumb). It was very surprising to me that with just 20% of AP in an otherwise whole grain loaf, handling, rise and crust/crumb profile can change quite significantly. 

Floydm's picture
Floydm

I've mentioned before that for the past few months I've been working on an upgraded version of this site. It is getting close to ready. Ready enough that if anyone wants to see it, you can.

The preview version of the new site lives at: https://refresh.thefreshloaf.com/

To get past the initial username and password, you'll need to use "freshloaf" and "refresh". This is there to keep Google and other bots from crawling it. It's not ready for them yet.

The preview site is not sending emails and your email address has been scrambled. You can log in if you remember your existing TFL username and password, but if you try to send a password reset email or create a new account, you will not receive the email needed to move forward.

The preview site will get blown away. What you see there was created from a clone of this site's database from a couple of days ago. Anyone is welcome to sign in and post content, but I'll be wiping out everything that has been imported there again soon, likely over the weekend again, as I continue working on the process of migrating the content from the existing site to the new site.

Dorota wrote up more details about the new site here

It's a work in progress, for sure, but it is getting close enough to be viable soon, I think. I'm intending to try switching this site over to it in a month or so but that depends on me finding the time to continue making fixes and adjustments.

Let me know what you think! I'm sure it'll take some getting used to but I hope it'll still be comfortable and familiar. And hopefully easier to use, particular on phones.

albacore's picture
albacore

Taking inspration from some very nice looking Semola/Durum loaves recently posted on the forum, I thought it was time to try my hand.

I haven't baked with semola rimacinata for a while; I think the last time was based on Maurizio's excellent Pane Siciliano recipe.

This time it was to be an homage to pane di Altamura with 100% semola rimacinata including the levain. I already had a bag of this flour:

 

so that's what I used. It turned out to be a good choice, as it is the finest, strongest and thirstiest semola flour I have come across.

I followed the Altamura dop recipe pretty closely, picking up a few tips from my favourite Italian breadmaking site, La Confraternita della Pizza

I started by converting my stiff starter to a durum one, then refreshed several times at 60% hydration (1 starter/3 flour/1.8 water) at 25c. The starter seemed to get a bit sluggish so I did a feed with 5% rye, which perked things up.

Prior to making the dough, I did the recommended 3 refreshes:

6pm 1/1/0.7 28c

11pm 1/6/4.2 25.5c

8am 1/1/0.7 29c

The dough had a 75min autolyse and then the levain was added at 20%

Initially I was going to mix on speed 1 only, but instead I followed Michael Wilson's advice, who said that the durum flour likes a lot of energy input, so I did 12 minutes on speed 1 and 4 minutes on speed 2. Interestingly, the dough was prone to overheating very quickly during mixing; this must be a feature of durum flour as I don't get see it with my usual flours.

I had originally planned for 70% hydration, but I was able to bassinage up to 77% - I could probably have gone up to 80%.

Bulk lasted 4 hours and volume increase was 38%

Final proof was 1hr 20m. I skipped the priest's hat and u skuanete shaping - maybe next time.......

I was quite please with the end result:

 

Lance

Benito's picture
Benito

I mentioned in my cake post that I was making purple sweet potato sourdough milk rolls, here they are.  Utilizing a stiff sweet levain to reduce the sour tang once again and adding a tangzhong to ensure fluffiness and to delay staling.  These turned out really well.  I love the colour of the soft shreddable crumb along with the small blisters on the crust.  For convenience I did a cold retard at the end of bulk so I could start these the day before our dinner party and then bake them the day of.

24 rolls in a 9 x 13” pan 

 

egg wash: 1 yolk and 1 tbsp milk, beaten…

 

Prepare the stiff sweet levain overnight or the day before and refrigerate when ready.

 

Prepare the butter paste by blending very soft butter with flour.

 

Cook Tangzhong mixing flour and milk constantly until it becomes a thick roux.  Let cool before adding to final dough.  Or add to cold milk and egg to cool it down.  Add the levain and break it up into small pieces with your spatula.  Add and dissolved IDY if using.

 

To mix by hand, add the flour to the wet ingredients (milk, tangzhong and egg) to dissolve.  Next add the flour and mix with a silicone spatula until no dry flour remains.  Rest 10-20 mins.  Next perform French folds until the dough is well developed.  Smear the butter onto the dough and then fold to incorporate and then perform further French folds until well developed.  Gradually add the mashed potato and knead to incorporate it well into the dough.  Form into a tight ball and place in a bowl covered with plastic or a damp cloth @ 82°F for 3-4 hours, some rise will be visible. Alternatively, you could mix the mashed potato and butter and then add the mixture to the developed dough until well incorporated.

 

Butter a large baking pan or line the pan with parchment.  Punch the dough down and then divide into 24 equal portions.  Form each into tight boules.  Place in the buttered baking pan seam side down.  Cover them and allow them to fully proof about 4-6 hours, they should pass the poke test.

 

About 30 mins before the end of proofing time, whisk your remaining egg and milk and then brush the small boules.

 

About 30 mins prior to end of final proof preheat the oven to 350°F. 

Immediately prior to baking brush the dough again with the egg and milk mixture.

 

Bake the rolls uncovered for 30-35 minutes or until the internal temperature is at least 190F. Cover if your rolls get brown early in the baking process.

 

Remove the bread from the oven but not the pans, brush the tops with the melted butter while hot, and then let cool for 10 minutes before pulling the bread from the pans. You may need to slide a butter knife down the sides of the pan to loosen the bread, but I have found parchment paper to be unnecessary.  Sprinkle with fleur de sel if you wish after brushing with butter. 

My index of bakes

Benito's picture
Benito

We are hosting some of our friends for dinner tonight.  In addition to the purple sweet potato SD milk rolls I have fermenting, I made this gingerbread layer cake with cream cheese frosting.  This recipe is care of Bake From Scratch.  The cake recipe that follows is for one 8” round cake, so I doubled it for this layer cake.  The frosting recipe would be more than enough for a three layer cake, so I halved it for this two layer cake.  I love a skim coat frosting for the sides of the cake because I typically find that much frosting less cloying than a fully frosted layer cake.

GINGERBREAD CAKE

Makes 1 (8-inch) cake

This soft and moist stir-together cake blends warm spices with rich molasses, adding aromatic depth of flavor. It comes together quickly and easily, needing only a dusting of confectioners sugar, to be a fitting finish to any holiday gathering.

 

Ingredients

2 ½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour

2¼ teaspoons (4.5 grams) ground ginger

1¼ teaspoons (3.75 grams) kosher salt

1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda

1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar*

¾ cup (255 grams) unsulphured molasses

½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted

2 large eggs (100 grams)

2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract

¾ cup (180 grams) hot water (128°F/53°C to 130°F/55°C)

Garnish: confectioners' sugar

 

  1.   Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray an 8-inch square baking pan with baking spray with flour. Line pan with parchment paper, letting excess extend over sides of pan.
  2.   In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, ginger, salt, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves.
  3.   In a large bowl, whisk together brown sugar, molasses, melted butter, eggs, and vanilla. Whisk in flour mixture just until a few dry streaks remain. Whisk in ¾ cup (180 grams) hot water until combined. Pour batter into prepared pan.
  4.   Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes.

 

Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack. Just before serving, garnish with confectioners' sugar, if desired or frost with cream cheese frosting.  Recipe follows below.

CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

Makes about 6 cups

Half recipe would make enough for a two layer cake.

 

2 (8-ounce) packages (454 grams) cream cheese, room temperature

1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt

8 cups (960 grams) confectioners' sugar

2½ teaspoons (10 grams) vanilla extract

 

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese, butter, and salt at high speed until smooth and creamy, stopping to scrape bottom and sides of bowl. With mixer on low speed, gradually add confectioners' sugar, beating until combined and stopping to scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Beat in vanilla. Increase mixer speed to high, and beat until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Use immediately.

My index of bakes.

Benito's picture
Benito

My first fruitcake was a Bara Brith, this is a fruitcake that Southern Living says is for those who don’t like fruitcake.  I like the variety of fruit that it has in it along with the nuts.  The recipe calls for apricots, dates, raisins, tart dried cherries, candied cherries, cranberries, apples, candied peel, slivered almonds and pecans.  I used extra apricots and cranberries and didn’t use dates or apples.  

I did two things that compromised the crumb.  First I used a 9x4” pullman pan instead of the 9x5” loaf pan so the batter was taller and more weighted down than it should have been.  Where the recipe says to smooth the top of the batter down, I went a bit overboard with that compressing the batter.

All in all thought, this is a delicious fruitcake and better than store bought for sure especially since making it yourself, you can control the quality of the ingredients. 

Ingredients for 2 cakes

Soaked Fruit:

  • 1 1/2 cups (about 8 1/2 oz.) chopped dried pitted apricots
  • 1 1/2 cups (about 8 oz.) chopped pitted medjool dates
  • 1 cup (5 oz.) golden raisins or raisins
  • 1 cup (5 3/4 oz.) dried cherries
  • 1 cup (6 3/4 oz.) glazed red cherries
  • 1/2 cup (2 3/4 oz.) dried cranberries
  • 1/2 cup (about 1 1/4 oz.) chopped dried apple 
  • 1/2 cup (about 1 oz.) chopped glazed orange peel (optional)
  • 1 cup (8 oz.) dark rum or brandy

 

Batter: for 2 cakes

  • Cooking spray
  • 1 cup (8 oz.) unsalted butter, softened
  • 3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
  • 1 tsp. grated orange zest (from 1 medium orange)
  • 1/2 cup unsulphured molasses
  • 2 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1/2 tsp. almond extract
  • 4 large eggs, at room temperature
  • 2 cups (about 8 1/2 oz.) all-purpose flour
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp. ground allspice
  • 1 tsp. ground ginger
  • 1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
  • 1/4 tsp. ground cloves
  • 1 cup (4 3/4 oz.) slivered almonds, toasted
  • 1 cup (4 oz.) pecan halves, toasted
  • 1/2 cup (4 oz.) dark rum or brandy, for brushing

Directions

Prepare the Soaked Fruit: 
Combine all ingredients in a large shallow dish (such as a 9- x 13-inch baking dish); toss to coat.

Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature, stirring occasionally, until fruits have plumped and absorbed rum, at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.

Prepare the oven and loaf pans: 

Preheat oven to 300°F. Light coat 2 (9- x 5-inch) loaf pans with cooking spray, and line pans with a double layer of parchment paper, leaving a 2-inch overhang on each side.

 

Mix the Batter: 

Beat butter, sugar, and orange zest with a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment on medium-high speed until smooth and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes.

 

Add molasses, vanilla, and almond extract; beat on medium speed until blended, about 30 seconds. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating on low speed until just combined after each addition, about 1 minute total.

 

Whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, allspice, ginger, nutmeg, and cloves in a medium bowl.

 

Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating on low speed until just combined, about 1 minute, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as needed.

 

Fold in fruits and nuts: 

Transfer batter to a very large bowl. Fold in almonds, pecans, and Soaked Fruit until evenly distributed.

 

Add batter to pans: 

Spoon batter evenly into prepared pans (about 5 cups per pan). Smooth top of batter with a small spatula, and gently tap pans on counter to release any large air bubbles.

 

Bake fruitcakes: 

Bake in preheated oven until tops are golden and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 1 hour and 30 minutes to 1 hour and 45 minutes.

 

Cool and brush with rum: 

Cool cakes in pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Using parchment overhang as handles, lift cakes from pans; place cakes on wire rack. Using a pastry brush, brush all sides of cakes with rum. Let cool completely on wire rack, about 6 hours, continuing to brush occasionally with rum as cakes cool.

My index of bakes.

 

 

 

ll433's picture
ll433

I first had these spinach pies (or pita, as it's called there) when hiking near Ljuboten a couple of years back. A very old lady invited us to her hut for a pita made with nettles and cheese. That was the best pie I've ever eaten. Since then, I've tried to replicate it at home with spinach (no success with Belgian nettles - tasted very grassy).

The pie uses a dough that is just a little thicker than phyllo. 

Dough for one pie

250g of white flour mixed with water to about 50% hydration, with 2g of salt added. You need a dough that is rather dry - creases remain on the surface and the dough is not smooth at all. Rest the dough for at least 3 hours - I tend to rest it for at least 5. It is much easier to stretch if it has had more time to rest. By the end of the resting period, the dough is smooth and pliable. 

Filling for one pie

220g spinach; 2 yellow onions, 110g feta

1. To make the filling: Saute onions until translucent, then add in spinach in three batches. Season with salt, oregano and pepper. Cook off as much water as you can - if there's too much you need to drain it. Towards the end, add a tablespoon of flour to make the mixture drier. Once the mixture is very dry, take it off the heat and let it cool on a plate. Let the mixture completely cool then add the crumbled feta before you make the pie.

2. To assemble the pie: Preheat the oven to 175 degrees. Oil a big pie form (I prefer a cast iorn pan) with olive oil. Roll and stretch your dough until extremely thin. I start by using a rolling pin to roll the dough out to about 2mm thick. After that, I stretch it out with my hands, starting from the sides, then draping it over my arms to stretch the middle of the dough - let gravity do the work. Stretch till the windowpane stage then lay it out on the floured counter to continue assembling.

3. Put some spinach mixture in a long horizontal manner at one end of the dough like a sausage. Roll the dough over the sausage until covered. Brush pastry that is covering the top of the sausage with olive oil, and make another round of pastry over the sausage. This sausage is now done. Use a knife to cut off the sausage from the rest of the dough. Make sure the ends are pinched closed. Assemble it in the pie form starting from the middle, like a snail, then broadening out. Make sure that the crease of the sausage is always facing down on the pan. Continue in this manner until your filling is finished.

4. To bake the pie: Brush the top of the pie and the sides of the outermost layer with olive oil. Put pie into oven and bake until golden brown, about 30-40 mins. And then you eat it.

 

Benito's picture
Benito

My starter was fed only once after returning from our trip to Florida when I made the levain for this bread.  As a result the fermentation was much slower than usual.  However, this bread baked up just fine.  This dough was enriched with the addition of some wildflower honey and toasted sesame oil.  I added both black and golden toasted sesame seeds, thus the triple sesame seeds.  This has 20% sprouted whole Spelt which adds a great flavour and extensibility to the dough.  I’m quite happy with the bake especially considering the slowness of my starter which I’ll have to feed a couple more times before my next bake.  I haven’t sliced it yet, but given the oven spring, I think it will be just fine.

For 1 loaf in a 9x4x4” Pullman pan.

 

Build stiff levain, ferment at 74°F for 10-12 hours overnight.

 

In the morning add the salt and honey to the water and dissolve.  Then add the levain and break down the levain as well as you can.  Add both the flours and mix well until no dry bits are left. After 10 mins of rest start gluten development with slap and folds or use your mixer.  Once the dough is well developed, while the mixer is running, drizzle in the toasted sesame oil until well incorporated.  Next gradually add the toasted black and golden sesame seeds until well incorporated.   Bench letterfold, remove aliquot, then at 30 mins intervals do coil folds until good structure is achieved.

 

Once the dough has risen 40% then shape the dough into a batard and place in prepared pan.

 

Final proof the dough until it has reached 1 cm of the rim of the pan.  pre-heat oven at 425°F and prepare for steam bake.

 

Once oven reaches 425ºF score top of dough and then brush with water.  Transfer to oven and bake with steam for 25 mins.  Vent the oven (remove steaming gear) rotate the pan and drop temperature to 350ºF.  Bake for another 25-30 mins rotating as needed until browned.  Remove from the pan and place directly on the rack baking for another 5-10 mins to firm up the crust.

 

For those who are interested in pH data.  I found the following.

pH after mixing 5.36

pH 4.39 when bulk fermentation complete and rise 35%

pH 4.0 and rise 90% at time of baking.

This follows what I have usually done aiming for about a 1.0 drop in pH at the time of shaping and then another 0.4 drop for a total of about 1.4 at the time of baking.  

My Index of Bakes

Debra Wink's picture
Debra Wink

Panettone season is starting up again --- exciting, huh? I know some people bake it year-round, but I think my last one this year was last January and one colomba in the spring. It's a multi-day project, so for me, I need to be able to shoehorn it into my schedule and this year it didn't happen. But this week that finally changed and I tried something new that worked so well I thought I should share.

I saw this panettone baking tray some months back and was intrigued by how it would make flipping the loaves so much quicker and less precarious, not to mention, all loaves at once. The tray would fit in my oven, but unfortunately, not my proofer (or my price point). But I wasn't ready to give up on the concept so I took a tour around my kitchen to see what could serve the same function.

I spied this layer cake cooling rack and thought, upside-down, the feet should hold the skewers nicely. It does!

There are no cross braces to interrupt the flat surface of what is actually the underside of the rack, and the skewers fit perfectly through the feet and over the rim. This was very secure, but I didn't really want to use the basso form this time, and I am out of 1K altos right now. The 750g alto is a little too small for this skewer spacing (although I have since figured out how to support it across the middle -- no matter, moving on).

The location of feet and crossbar on this longer rack made it unsuitable to use the feet as in the previous one, but then I thought of these metal binder clips. What a perfect solution! And this rack fits inside the B&T proofer. You could even use the rack that comes with the proofer for this.

Binder clips and cooling racks are oven safe and what a joy it was to pick this up with gloved hands and securely turn it over as it was coming out of the oven. Two chairs back-to-back complete the hanging frame.

But here's the aha --- you could clip your pre-skewered forms to the rack after they come out of the proofer, so you can use any rack that fits in your oven. It doesn't have to be limited to what fits in the proofer. If your rack is a small grid like my large cooling racks are (i.e., the clips don't fit), you could use metal twist-ties to secure the skewers to the rack and fit as many forms on as you have space for. Or even use a perforated sheet pan. A lot of flexibility here, and cooling racks can be set in or on a sheet pan if you need to shield the bottoms.

Happy Baking!
dw 

CalBeachBaker's picture
CalBeachBaker

Today's bake: Pumpkinseed Rye   Kurbiskernbrot (Germany)

Source: The Rye Baker by Stanley Ginsberg

Notes: Increased dough to make 3 loaves @ 721gr each.

Substitutions: None

Discussion: Another nice rye bread from 'The Rye Baker'. This is a relatively easy bread to make consisting of a soaker, a sponge, and main dough. It has a nice mild-sour taste and Stanley describes it best "A medley of pumpkin seeds, crunchy flaxseed, and chewy coarse rye meal, all encased in a tender wheat rye crumb. The pumpkin seeds dominate its flavor profile, their sweet richness accented by the burnt notes of black rye malt and moderately sour finish".

 

Make again? - Yes, definitely.

Changes/Recommendations:  More flour in the bannetons, scale the dough for larger loaves.

 

*** The Images can be made to full size by placing your cursor on the image and right clicking, and then, open image in a new tab.

Ratings:

 

 

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