March 13, 2023 - 2:40pm
Trip to Naples
I'm off to Naples, Italy for a few days at the end of the month. Can anyone recommend any bakeries, pizzerias or restaurants worth a visit?
Lance
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I'm off to Naples, Italy for a few days at the end of the month. Can anyone recommend any bakeries, pizzerias or restaurants worth a visit?
Lance
I am probably also going there (again) - at the end of April! Visited in October last year for a holiday, and now will be a work-related trip.
It is amazing there!
My main recommendation for basically the best coffee and pastries I've ever tried is Gambrinus, next to the Royal Palace. It's a little more expensive and "fancy", but actually don't sit down and just get espresso al banco (i.e. without a table) and get any pastries that catch your fancy (sfoglietelle ricce and frolla, baba, all kinds of things...). Once you know what you want, you need to buy a "ticket" from the small "office" at the entrance, and then show it to the barista or to the pastry sellers. Apparently, the "suspended coffee" originated from that place, and it's quite natural with this system with tickets.
Probably the best meal we had was super simple: gorge ourselves on fried anchovies and seafood at the market. I forgot the name of the place, looking at the map it was probably Pescheria Azzurra - at the top of the Pignesecca market. Everything we ate in Napoli was great, but in the end you can't beat simplicity of freshly fried fresh fish with some beer.
For pizza, I am also curious. We had it a couple of times, and like - it was great, but didn't blow our minds. Perhaps we didn't try it at the best places? Or we overhyped ourselves to expect something impossible?
We found this video inspiring for some ideas btw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQCqPktm7jg
We even went to one of the places they show there - A Taverna Do Re - and it was excellent :)
Thanks Ilya - some great info here - much appreciated! Market cafes are often a good bet. We have fond memories of the ones in Athens meat market many years ago; the best retsina I ever tasted!
Lance
Oh yeah - Athens main meat and fish market is a great spot! Although the number of carcasses hanging around might be a little disturbing. Great food there, we went once there also.
Good to hear it's still going strong - I have to confess it was probably in the 1980s when we were last there!
We squeezed into a table opposite a local guy waiting for his food. His food arrived shortly and it consisted solely of a large bowl full of clear broth and immersed in it was the biggest fish head you have ever seen!
Lance
We went there I think end of 2019. My gf (Greek) says it's the best place in Athens to buy fish (and I guess meat too, but she is less interested in that) and probably restaurants source it there too. A very impressive place!
Wow that sounds great! We should visit it again next time we are in Athens.
It sounds lame but if you are going to Pompeii, the pizzeria at the gates had pizza that I was quite impressed by (and I am a knowledgeable and avid pizza fan). It was the only place in/near Naples that I had pizza as we were advised by several people back home that Naples was not advisable as a vacation destination. On a side note, I HIGHLY recommend visiting Pompeii.
Thanks Michael - I'm not sure if we''ll have time to go to Pompeii, but if we do, we''ll look out for that pizzeria.
Lance
I've not been in to the heart of Naples, perhaps it for fear of the saying "Vedi Napoli e poi muori" ! Since it is only for a few days, I don't suppose you are driving? As I could recommend some places closer to Amalfi... I'm used to staying off the beaten track while in Italy!
You must let us all know of your experience when you return.
Grape varieties of Campania; White: Greco, Falanghina, Fiano | Red: Aglianico (to be fair it's difficult to coax something interesting out of this one) opt for Taurasi with rich dishes / steak as it is aged.
Beyond the common ones there are some rare alternatives to be had, which is always the way in Italy!
Only there for a few days Michael, so no car. I do remember getting the public bus from Naples to Amalfi many years ago and it was a pretty hairy journey in a huge coach travelling along the narrow (no doubt wider now) coast road - and it took several hours to travel not many km!
We stayed in a nice "pension" in the main square and on the last day had to get up at the crack of dawn to get an early bus back to Naples for a flight. It was so early that the Patron (sorry for the French) said he would leave the back door open for us to get out. Of course he forgot and our only escape route was to climb out of a downstairs window!
Lance
So I made it to Naples - and made it back again; fortunately Michael's "Vedi Napoli e poi muori" didn't apply this time!
I went with my daughter and we stayed in a Vrbo in the centro storico. The climb up 4 1/2 flights of steps was compensated by the view I had out of my bedroom window:
And what a great place Naples is! So full of life and vibrancy. Down to earth and a bit scruffy in parts, but with a great soul - and the best coffee ever. And they live and breathe football - bunting everywhere, from the 5th floor balconies down to the ground and back again.
And anyone know this guy?
Following Ilya's great tips we had coffee and sfogliatella at the very elegant Cafe Gambrinus (twice!) and lunch of fritto misto at the Pescheria Azzurra - and very good it was too.
And if you go, make sure to have an icecream at Gay Odin's - the best ever. Hazelnut and pear and pistachio were my favourite flavours.
I didn't get a chance to taste a lot of bread, but this display looked interesting:
I could see me having a go at the pane di San Sebastiano sometime.
Regarding pizza, we had an OK one the first night, but the base was a bit soggy in the middle:
This was at Sorbillos, but it wasn't THE Sorbillo! We did wonder why there was no queue. So if you go looking for a specific pizzeria make sure it has the right first name too.
Our second pizza was in the famous Antica pizzeria da Michele, also with branches in London, Barcelona and LA, I believe. This pizza (we got a takeaway) was better, but again a bit soggy in the middle and so stingy with the basil!
But we finally got a 9/10 pizza at 7 Soldi - we just asked a barman where to go!
Lance
That's a nice round up, some really nice shots that describe the journey.
I think that saying only applies, if you are driving... so no worries there...
Shame the pizza didn't quite live up to expectations but I understand quality varies even in Italy!
I see it was birra with pizza, no wine at any point?
Oh and regarding the coffee, that is the most consistent thing, no matter where you go even at a service station the coffee is exceptional!
Again nice photos, there is a real essence there of Italy!
Well if you're driving, I wouldn't be surprised - typical battle scars of driving in Napoli:
When you've been travelling all day, I think you need a beer! But yes, I did drink some wine, mainly the basic house white wine, usually Fiano or Falanghina. Pleasant enough, but nothing special - just simple quaffing wine.
We did go to a more upmarket restaurant, which unfortunately promised much but delivered little (despite good reviews - never trust the good ones!). And this is what we got:
I remeber you saying to steer clear of Aglianico, but all his red wines seemed to be that grape. It was quite expensive, but certainly not my cup of tea; a good nose but sweet and soft on the palate.
BTW, I'm afraid I've decided I don't like Negroamaro either, after drinking a Salice Salentino Riserva (in the UK) - soft, a bit sweet and too much berry fruit.
Lance
Thanks a lot for the report Lance! I was recently wondering whether you had made it there in the end. Glad that you enjoyed it there and that my advice was useful! That's a beautiful view you had, very lucky!
I am going in a week also! I might check out the pizza place you recommend, and the ice cream shop! Not sure how much free time I'll have, since I am going for work, but I think I'll manage to escape for a bit.
I was really confused by all the Sorbillos, there are many, and they are all chains too. Still don't know which one is THE one.
I hope you can make it to the gelataria and pizzeria. Not always easy when you're on business, I know. My other daughter does a lot of travelling with her job, but she hardly ever sees anything of the apparent destination - usually stuck in a conference centre or meeting rooms.
But enjoy your trip!
Lance