The Fresh Loaf

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Benito's picture
Benito

So I’ve gradually noticed differences between my two starters, one fed only white bread flour and the other whole rye starter.  The white starter I got from Alan (thank you Alan) and the whole rye is my own now what, four years old?  It is possible the differences I am seeing are due to differing microbes that inhabit each of the starters, or they might be purely related to the type of flour each is fed.  With the greater buffering capacity of whole rye vs white flours the LAB population will be able to replicate producing acid for a longer time before the pH falls enough to start to inhibit their growth.  As you know, the LAB are actually more greatly affected by low pH than the yeast.  So the rye starter may have a slightly greater population of LAB relative to the yeast compared to the starter fed only white flour.  In my bakes so far using either the white or the rye starter, I have started to notice this difference in the breads made.  The white starter seems to produce breads with less sour tang and that leaven the dough more rapidly while the pH falls more slowly.  This was very evident in this bake.

The formula was almost unchanged from my previous bake except that the hydration was increased by 1% from a touch more scald water accidentally added to the bran.  As you can imagine, it would be impossible to pour out that extra water since the bran absorbs it pretty quickly.  For this bake, the levain was made using the white starter while my last bake was made using the rye starter.

Some differences noted during bulk and final proof.  

The starting pH of the rye starter bake was 5.31 while the starting pH for the white starter bake was 5.5 suggesting that the TTA of the levains and dough was lower for the white starter bake.  Now of course you could say that some of that TTA was from the starter itself, but considering that the starter was 1:4 ratio to the flour for the levain and the prefermented flour of each bake was only 9% I doubt that the difference in starting pH could be fully explained by TTA of the starter used to make the levain.  

The pH change of the rye starter bake was 1.4 with a total rise of only 45% while the corresponding pH change for the white bake was only 1.15 with a rise of 115%.  Now it is quite possible that the aliquot of dough removed for the rye starter bake wasn’t totally representative of the main dough, I have seen this happen before, but the difference in rising power of the rye vs white starter bakes is quite remarkable and I would suggest is related to relatively less LAB and more yeast in the white starter vs rye starter bakes.

Now my current bake suffered from a lack of ear.  Some possible causes could be over fermentation, over hydration, too shallow a score, insufficient steam and top crust formation too early in the bake.  There are other possible causes but these come to my mind.  I do recognize that my scoring was too shallow I think that I subconsciously scored too shallow because I was concerned that the dough had over fermented even though the poke test passed and there was some rebound of the dough.  The crumb didn’t show any signs of over fermentation and I would have expected more spreading of the dough during baking if it was over fermented.  I doubt it was over hydrated as I only increased the hydration by 1%.  

In the late evening, build the levain and ferment at 74°F aiming to use it after 10 hours.  I used my bread flour starter for this as it seems to produce doughs with less acidity which should allow for longer fermentation and greater rise.

Sift the whole wheat flour.  Scald the sifted bran with 97 g of filtered water (I suspect I can increase the scald water even higher).  After it cools place it in the fridge overnight.

 

In the morning the levain should have peaked, mine was 3.5 x rise and the dome was just starting to flatten.  Remove the refrigerated bran and allow to come to room temperature.

 

In the bowl of my Ankarsrum Assistent I added the water (not the hold back water yet) and then the levain.  Using a silicone spatula cut the levain into smaller pieces.  Add the sifted flour and then allow the Ankarsrum Assistent to mix the dough.  I continued to mix at around 2-3 setting until the dough had at least moderate gluten development.  Next I added the salt dissolved in all the holdback water, gradually allowing the salt water to be absorbed before adding more.  Once all the water is incorporated I added bran gradually, again allowing it to incorporate well before adding more.  Once all the bran is added continue to mix until very good gluten development.

 

Remove the dough from the bowl, perform a letterfold on the counter.  Remove an aliquot of the dough for pH measurement and set up your aliquot jar.  At 30 mins intervals perform a coil fold on the dough, watching the rise and pH.  I performed four sets of coil folds and then allowed the dough to rest and ferment until the dough rose 50% and the pH dropped by 0.7-0.75.  Shape the dough into a batard and place into a prepared banneton.   

 

About 60 mins prior to baking pre-heat the oven to 500°F setting it up for steam baking.

Once the dough reaches 110-120% rise, the pH drops a total of 1.15 and the dough passes the poke test place the dough into the freezer until the oven is ready.

 

30 mins prior to baking, pour 1 L of boiling water into metal loaf pan with Sylvia towel and place on baking steel on the lowest rack of the oven.

Once oven reaches 500ºF turn dough out of banneton, brush excess rice flour off, score and then brush with water.  Transfer to oven.  Pour 250 mL of boiling water into the cast iron skillet on a high shelf, high enough that the dough have fully bloom.  Drop temperature to 450ºF and bake with steam for 25 mins.  Then vent oven and remove all steaming gear and drop temperature to 425ºF.  Bake for another 25-30 mins rotating as needed.

I will add that I am totally convinced that doing an open bake leads to a thinner crust the more I have done open steam baking now.  I have consistently found that the crusts baked this way are thinner than the crusts I used to get when doing dutch oven baking. 

jo_en's picture
jo_en

Clas conditions this whole grain too!

Enjoy all the nutrients of freshly milled whole grain sweet brown rice in a wonderfully soft and chewy mochi wrapped around a ball of red azuki bean paste (anko).

Recipe: food geek-

https://fgbc.dk/37cj  (6/17/23)

Ingredients makes 6-8 mochi

100 gr freshly ground brown sweet rice

8 gr rye clas (2.76 gr rye which is 2.7% total flour, 5.24 g water)

134 gr water (optional add 1tsp fresh sugared lemon zest)

60 gr sugar (1/3 cup)

150 gr red bean paste

Don't forget to brush off the excess potato starch on the finished mochi!

P.S.  This recipe uses more liquid than others and  the hot molten cooked dough will be sticky.  However the resulting dough will be much softer and it also stays softer longer. You can even refrigerate it and it will not be hard. I think an 8-10 sec reheat in the microwave will restore it to very soft. 

CalBeachBaker's picture
CalBeachBaker

Today's bake: Blue (Bloody Butcher) Corn and Caramelized Onion Loaf

Source: Sourdough Recipes for Rustic Fermented Breads, Sweets, Savories, and More - Sarah Owens

Note: Substituted Bloody Butcher corn for Blue corn, increased TDW from 1.661kg to 2.5kg, increased hydration from 75.44% to 79.42% due to  fresh milled flour factor of 10%.

Discussion: This is another of Sarah's breads that I have enjoyed baking. I milled the corn and the Red Fife at the finest setting. This is a very tasty bread due to the onions and olive oil but you can definitely taste and feel the grainy texture of the corn which is quite nice and the corn and the onions also add nice flecks of coloring to the crust.

Make again? - Yes, definitely.

Changes/Recommendations: slightly decrease the quantity of olive oil.

Ratings

 

 

 

 

 

Rafe's picture
Rafe

All that was left, was to pull together the last “To-Do’s” and combine them with all the others to complete the project. So, without further ado.

  • Use a tablet, pad, phone or printed paper layouts for method, workflow times & temperatures. Hydrations, a gaggle of other info with non-essentials filtered
  • Formatting, fonts, cells, display and anything else that comes to mind 

Setting a single print area and using the active filters already developed, produced the targeted distortion-free pdf style printing. Which achieves having recipe cards that can be used on-screen or other devices. Printing to paper is also an option if it’s to be added to an existing portfolio. Both can be annotated, so there is a choice.
(Personally, I copy the recipe card to my phone as a pdf and make notes on it whilst baking). 

Formatting changed as the project developed, a succession of colours came and went, and cells got a highlighted makeover for completed tasks one way or another.

So, the ultimate question is…. Does it work?

Overall, a Detailed, Fully Formulated, Formatted, Self-Calculating Weight-To-Percentage Spreadsheet removing the need for a calculator in most cases. Entering weights as found, automatically giving a full array of bakers' percentages as the result. With the ability to compare, tweak and adjust a single recipe over multiple rows without losing the original. Including a raft of additional tools, and special features in a one-stop nifty layout. Developed into a complete website on its use, providing samples and finished bakes using all the sheet's capabilities and storing the location of the downloadable master Excel spreadsheet.

I’d say yes, Bakers Percent was Re-Imagined!

The picture displays a full recipe card for the BBGA Three Flour Rustic Sourdough with Cracked Wheat Soaker and a Yeasted Preferment, where multiple flours are used in multiple preferments’.
Complete as per the original 15kg TDW, showing Percentages for Hydrations, Prefermented flours and included ingredients.
Supplemented with a Revised Total Weight & Yield arrangement, Recipe notes, Timings & baking notes, document links, star rating, bakeware used and extra-over hydration information.

gavinc's picture
gavinc

I made some English muffins for lunch today. I'm tweaking the recipe and process as I go. These are great without too many enrichments like you see on some sites. I had one for lunch with home-made green tomato pickle, ham, and Smokey cheese.

fitzgen's picture
fitzgen

I’ve recently been making a bunch of rye breads from Stanley Ginsberg’s The Rye Baker. I’ve been loving the technical depth to the recipes, where there are multiple stages of preferment, scalds, soakers, and sometimes you do fun things like combine a preferment with a scald and let it rise a second time before making the final dough. I recently thought to myself, why not bring this back to the world of wheat and apply some of these techniques to a country loaf-style bread? And so this recipe was born.

 

This recipe starts with a levain and an oat porridge. Then, once the levain has risen, we combine it with the porridge for a second rise. My goal in prefermenting the porridge was two-fold: first to add more depth of flavor, and second to really boost the levain and give it lots of leavening power. Did it actually make a difference? I’d have to make this loaf a bunch more times and have more side-by-side comparisons to really say. But I really liked the resulting loaf nevertheless!

 

Totals

  • 60% bread flour (I used KABF)
  • 30% T85 flour (I used cairnspring mills trailblazer)
  • 10% whole wheat (I home-milled some hard red spring wheat berries)
  • 94% water
  • 7% rolled oats
  • 2.5% salt
  • 0.5% sourdough culture
  • 10% of the flour and all the oats are prefermented 

 

Levain

  • 5% whole wheat
  • 5% water
  • 0.5% sourdough culture

 

Combine and let double, about six to eight hours.

 

Porridge

  • 7% rolled oats
  • 14% water

 

Mix in a saucepan, heat over medium high heat stirring constantly. Once it fully gelatinizes and reaches at least 160F, take off the heat and let cool to room temperature.

 

Levain-Porridge

  • Levain
  • Porridge
  • 5% whole wheat
  • 5% water

 

Break up the porridge into little pieces and then combine everything, mixing well. Let rise to 1.75x in size, about four to six hours.

 

Final Dough

  • Levain-porridge
  • 60% bread flour
  • 30% T85 flour
  • 70% water
  • 2.5% salt

 

Mix the salt into the water. Mix the levain-porridge into the salt water. Add in the flours and mix just until no dry flour is left.

 

Rest the dough for 30 minutes.

 

Do three sets of stretch and folds evenly spaced over an hour.

 

Laminate the dough and then fold it back onto itself to build extra strength.

 

Bulk ferment until 1.5x in size, about three hours.

 

Preshape and rest for 20 minutes.

 

Shape and place in a banneton.

 

Cold proof overnight, twelve to eighteen hours.

 

Bake at 440F with steam for 30 minutes and then without steam for 20 to 25 minutes, until beautifully deep golden brown. I used a challenger-style bread pan but you could of course use a Dutch oven or baking stone.

 

Let cool completely before slicing in. I waited till the next day and then refreshed the loaf with a quick rinse under the tap and reheat in the oven. Very good!

 

Benito's picture
Benito

I’m not sure but I think it might have been more than a year ago that I made a 100% whole wheat bread of this sort.  I realized that I hadn’t even used my banneton this year yet so it was really overdue.  Since I am out of practice I decided to keep the same formula as my last loaf more or less but wanted to use my Ankarsrum Assistent to develop the dough.  As with my previous 100% whole grain hearth loaves that were successful, I sifted out the bran with my #40 sieve and then did a scald of the bran.  This was refrigerated overnight.  All the bran was added back to the dough after it was well developed.  The dough was started at a lower hydration and then additional water was added by bassinage.  In the end the hydration was about 90%.

The stiff levain was built and left to ferment overnight at 74ºF.

 

The next morning to the bowl of my Ankarsrum Assistent I added the water and then the levain. The levain was broken down in water and then the sifted flour was added and a short mix on slow speed was done until no dry flour remained.  After 10 mins of rest at about 2-3 speed the dough was kneaded until at least moderate gluten development achieved.  The salt was sprinkled onto the dough and then the hold back water was added gradually until it was fully absorbed.  Next the hydrated bran was gradually added to the dough while the Ankarsrum Assistent continued to knead the dough until the bran was well distributed.  The dough was then flipped out of the bowl of the mixer and a bench letterfold was done.  An aliquot of dough was removed to measure the pH of the dough.  I am aiming for a drop in pH of about 1.0-1.1 for shaping and then another 0.3 at the time of baking.

 

Then at 30 mins intervals coil folds x 4 done

 

Pre-heat oven 500°F with cast iron skillet in the oven and set up for open steam baking in anticipation of pH targeted baking.

30 mins prior to baking, pour 1 L of boiling water into metal loaf pan with Sylvia towel and place on baking steel on the lowest rack of the oven.

Once oven reaches 500ºF turn dough out of banneton, brush excess rice flour off, score and then brush with water.  Transfer to oven.  Pour 250 mL of boiling water into the cast iron skillet on a high shelf, high enough that the dough have fully bloom.  Drop temperature to 450ºF and bake with steam for 25 mins.  Then vent oven and remove all steaming gear and drop temperature to 425ºF.  Bake for another 25-30 mins rotating as needed.

My index of bakes

CalBeachBaker's picture
CalBeachBaker

Today's bake: Pane di Altamura

Source: The Italian Baker - Carol Field

Note: Increased hydration from 86.67% to 91.67% due to  fresh milled flour factor of 5%

Discussion: This bread has really expansive oven spring and blooming.  The crust is nice and crisp and the crumb a soft cake like quality.  The crumb tastes of dairy/cheesy and nutty flavors and the crust had notes of vanilla bean.

I recommend it to all who want a fun, easy to make bread that has an interesting visual appeal.

Make again? - Yes

Changes/Recommendations: Increase the TDW/number of loaves baked, slightly increase hydration due to the fresh ground grain.

Ratings

 

 Shaping Videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phRWWndQW8s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXyowkDduNo   Shaping begins at the 12 min mark.

 

 

Tony

 

 

 

Benito's picture
Benito

I have a new jar of yuzu tea.  So yuzu tea (or citron tea since it is Korean) is a marmalade like jelly made from yuzu that when mixed with boiling water makes a lovely drink.  I decided I wanted to make some sweet rolls and I wanted to have yuzu flavour to it so I would use the yuzu tea as the filling and I have a bottle of yuzu extract that I would use as the liquid for the drizzle/icing. Despite the name of these rolls, they aren’t very sweet.  Other than the sugar used for the stiff sweet levain, there isn’t any sugar added to the dough.  Also, to make these a bit more hearty and healthy, all the flour for the tangzhong is whole wheat.

The dough is my standard formula for sweet roll dough that I have used before.  One change I would make next time is to prepare more of the yuzu filling, perhaps about 25% more and to use more of the flour sprinkled on the filling, again 25% more.

Sweet Yuzu Glaze
Yuzu extract 1 tbsp
½ cup (60g) confectioners’ sugar

 

Make the glaze: Right before serving, top your yuzu rolls with glaze. Mix all of the glaze ingredients together. If you prefer a thicker glaze, add more powdered sugar and then add salt to cut the sweetness, if desired. If you’d like it thinner, add more yuzu extract or cream. Drizzle over sweet rolls.

 

Yuzu Filling 

½ cup yuzu tea

1/16 cup granulated sugar

 

18 g flour (sprinkled on the filling after it is spread onto the dough)

Instructions

Levain

Mix the levain ingredients in a jar or pyrex container with space for at least 300% growth. 

Press down with your knuckles or silicone spatula to create a uniform surface and to push out air.

At a temperature of 76ºF, it typically takes up to 10-12 hours for this sweet stiff levain to be at peak.  For my starter I typically see 3-3.5 times increase in size at peak.  The levain will smell sweet with only a mild tang.

 

Tangzhong 

In a sauce pan set on medium heat, stir the milk and flour until blended. Then cook for several minutes until well thickened, stirring regularly with a spoon or heat-resistant spatula. Let cool in the pan or, for faster results, in a new bowl.  Theoretically it should reach 65ºC (149ºF) but I don’t find I need to measure the temperature as the tangzhong gelatinizes at this temperature.  You can prepare this the night before and refrigerate it, ensure that it is covered to prevent it from drying out.

 

If you plan on using a stand mixer to mix this dough, set up a Bain Marie and use your stand mixer’s bowl to prepare the tangzhong.

 

Dough

In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the milk (consider holding back 10 g of milk and adding later if this is the first time you’re making this), egg, tangzhong, salt, sugar and levain.  Mix and then break up the levain into many smaller pieces.  Next add the flours.  I like to use my spatula to mix until there aren’t many dry areas.  Allow the flour to hydrate (fermentolyse) for 20-30 minutes.  Mix on low speed and then medium speed until moderate gluten development this may take 5-10 mins.  You may want to scrape the sides of the bowl during the first 5 minutes of mixing.  Next add room temperature butter one pat at a time.  The dough may come apart, be patient, continue to mix until it comes together before adding in more butter.  Once all the butter has been added and incorporated increase the speed gradually to medium. Mix at medium speed until the gluten is well developed, approximately 10 mins.  You will want to check gluten development by windowpane during this time and stop mixing when you get a good windowpane.  You should be able to pull a good windowpane, not quite as good as a white flour because the bran will interrupt the windowpane somewhat.  Next add the zest of two oranges, that way they do not interfere with the gluten development. Mix until they are well incorporated in the dough.

 

On the counter, shape the dough into a tight ball, cover in the bowl and ferment for 2 - 3 hours at 82ºF.  There may be some rise visible at this stage.

 

Optional cold retard overnight or just 1.5 hours to chill the dough for easier shaping.

 

Prepare your pan by greasing it or line with parchment paper.  

 

This dough is very soft. Act quickly to roll, spread the filling, and cut before the dough warms and softens further. If it begins to soften, place it in the fridge to firm.

Remove your bulk fermentation container from the fridge, lightly flour your work surface in a large rectangle shape, and the top of the dough in the bowl. Then, gently scrape out the dough to the center of your floured rectangle. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour, and using a rolling pin, roll the dough out to a 15″ x 15″ square or larger rectangle.

 

Brush melted butter on rolled dough.  Then spread warmed yuzu tea onto the dough, then sprinkle flour on top.  The flour will help absorb any water drawn out of the dough by the sugar in the yuzu tea.

 

Starting at one of the long sides of the rectangle in front of you, begin rolling up the dough as you move across. Be sure to tightly roll the dough by gently tugging on the dough as you roll.

Once finished rolling up the dough, divide it into nine 1 1/2″ pieces using a sharp knife or dental floss (my preference). Transfer the pieces to the prepared baking pan and cover with a large, reusable bag, place in a warm spot.  I use my proofing box set to 82°F.  Final proof may take 3-6 hours, be patient and wait until the dough passes the finger poke test.

 

Be sure to start preheating your oven about 30 minutes before you feel the rolls will be fully proofed. For me, the final warm proof time was about 3 hours at 77°F (25°C).

 

Bake

Preheat your oven, with a rack in the middle, to 400°F (200°C). After the warm proof, uncover your dough and gently press the tops of a few rolls.  The fully proofed cardamom rolls will look very soft. The texture of the dough will be almost like a whipped mousse. Be sure to give them extra time in warm proof if necessary. If the dough needs more time to proof, cover the pan and give the dough another 15 to 30 minutes at a warm temperature and check again.

Once your oven is preheated, remove your pan from its bag, slide it into the oven, and bake for 30 to 35 minutes.

 

The rolls are finished baking when the tops are well-colored and the internal temperature is around 195°F (90°C). Remove the rolls from the oven and let the rolls cool for 5 to 10 minutes in the pan.

 

Once fully cooled drizzle the yuzu icing onto the rolls.

 

 

These are best the day they're made, and certainly fresh from the oven, but can be reheated in a warm oven a day or two after.

My index of bakes.

yozzause's picture
yozzause

i have been looking at Elizabeth David's book " English Bread and Yeast Cookery" and quite liked the look of the Tea cakes, i also took the opportunity to try some more Lupin breads so combined the two. The tea cakes are usually about 100g each, mine were 200g the same as the mini test loaves. Only one thing left to do !!!This is a Honey, Lemon, Lupin, Fruit Dough i used my own Honey 1 and a half Myer Lemons peel and juice, an egg and 25% lupin flour.       

 

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