The Fresh Loaf

A Community of Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts.

Tartine: A terminology issue

Muchohucho's picture
Muchohucho

Tartine: A terminology issue

When is a Tartine style bread, not a Tartine style bread? When did "sourdough" bread become synonymous with Tartine Style, or Pane Rustico? 

I've been on this forum for several years, in fact if there's an admin out there who can tell exactly how many years I'd really appreciate it. Anyway, it was sometime between 2011 and 2018. At the time, Tartines were ALL the craze. Would be interesting to see a word search over time on that. Nowadays, its virtually gone. 

My question is, when is a bread considered a Tartine style and when is it not? How much departure from Chad Robertson's original recipe, published in 2010 does it take before it is no longer THAT recipe, THAT style bread. 

I posit that today's "sourdough bread" is basically, a  Tartine style or slight modification thereof. I also balk highly that Sourdough bread, and Tartine style should be used synonymously. Sourdough is just the levan, it is NOT a bread or bread style. My slightly neurodivergent brain gets extremely frustrated by this complete disregard for terminology. So many bakers, pros and amateurs alike, call their bread Sourdough. If  you look up HOW to make Sourdough bread, 99% of the time you will get a rehash of a Tartine style, and that's it. And if it doesn't match up to their expectations of a huge useless hard to slice through ear, large permeable holes that can't hold butter, and gum scratching crust, they did poor job and feel sorry for themselves. Sourdough bread is NOT that. In fact, my first experience with sourdough bread was when I was a kid in the 60s and we'd take a trip to visit friends in San Francisco, go out to the wharf for chowder and SOURdough bread. Soft, slightly crusty, pure white, moderately tight crumbed, very tangy bread. If there IS a sourdough bread, THAT is it. Not these rustic highly (overly?) artistically scored ( unless your in beauty contest, which nowadays everything on Instagram is),  wheaty beasts of bread. It is not the zenith of bread affair that everyone seems to portend, it is but ONE style. Personally I'll take a real French baguette over one any day.  

This conventional concept of what sourdough bread is must change. The terminology and the expectations of what good bread is needs to be better defined and collectively accepted. Or maybe the cat's out of the bag, and the social commentary on what good bread is has changed forever, I don't know. Maybe I am just getting too old and crusty. 

Floydm's picture
Floydm

I've been on this forum for several years, in fact if there's an admin out there who can tell exactly how many years I'd really appreciate it.

It looks to me like you joined on January 1, 2009. Quite a while ago! Your first post was in 2011.

Davey1's picture
Davey1

I've said before - and I'll say again - make it if ya like it. Doesn't matter what it's called. Enjoy!

pmccool's picture
pmccool

Tartine-style breads are but one expression of sourdough bread.  So is pain au levain.  Or vollkornbrot.  Or sourdough biscuits.  Or a bread made with the Detmolder process.  And so on….

Sourdough breads are characterized by their leavening, not by their flour content or the baker who makes them.  Yes, Tartine-style breads are sourdough breads but they are not the sole holders of that designation, any more than squares are the sole form of rectangles.

Paul

tpassin's picture
tpassin

It seems to me that a lot of bakeries and restaurants (in the US) use the term "sourdough" to refer to a San Francisco-like white very sour loaf, as if that is the exemplar of a sourdough bread.  Unfortunately, most of those breads I've sampled have been inferior in taste and mouth feel even though they have a good appearance.

TomP.