April 9, 2024 - 3:42pm
Useful Tips in Hamelman's "Bread"
The book is just packed with information for all its audiences, from home bakers to professionals, It might not be ideal for absolute beginners because there is just so much information there.
I have been using the book (2nd and now 3rd editions) since I started baking bread, well before COVID. Every now and then I browse some of the general information, and I usually learn (or often re-learn) something useful.
Here are a couple of things that are relatively inconspicuous but are very helpful:
- The mixer timings are based on big commercial mixers making commercial-size batches of 12-15 loaves. If you scale the formulas down to home size and mix in a Kitchenaid stand mixer, use the same time for first speed as the book says. For second speed, double the time for the KA compared with the book. This is based on the page early in the book about mixers, and approximate times for each type of mixer. As always, the mixer timings are always approximate based on how the dough develops. But until you get a good feel, if you use a KA stand mixer, double the book time for mixing at 2nd speed.
- The book usually shows 3 versions for each formula (commercial size batches in lbs/oz and metric, and a home-size batch in lbs/oz). If you scale the metric batch down to home size (I divide by 10), then increase the amount of sourdough culture by 25% (50% more brings me pretty close to the fermentation and proofing times in the book). This is buried in the book on a page with tips for home bakers. I have seen references to this mass effect elsewhere, but I'm damned if I understand what causes it).
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Thanks for sharing that - I need to revisit that book. I have the older edition. Do you think the newer edition is worth the upgrade?
The main difference between the 2nd and 3rd editions is that about a dozen or so formulas were dropped and replaced by others. There are also pages and formulas on some bakers Hamelman has worked with outside the USA.
One of the formulas new in the 3rd edition is 100% Whole Wheat Workday Bread. It's 100% whole wheat, a goal I thought unreachable, except maybe in a loaf pan. And the formula is designed so that all the work takes place in the mornings and evenings before and after work, over 3 days.
I have the 2nd edition in hardcopy and the 3rd as an e-book. It's not cheap (~$50 for the e-book), but if you have the "dough" (pun intended) and maybe a birthday coming up, it can be useful. Take a look at an online preview; I think the previews include the section on changes from the 2nd edition. Read that and decide if it's worth the money for your situation.
BTW, years ago I used to use "The Bread Bakers Apprentice", by Reinhart. When I started to think about getting into sourdough, I looked into the book again. The sourdough section uses some less common terminology ("barm", et al) and all the formulas are in lbs and oz - ugh. Reinhart likes marble rye; Hamelman is derisive about it. My money's on Hamelman.
You are too pessimistic. Here's a crumb shot of a 100% WW free-standing loaf I baked last November -
ww_scald_crumb.jpg
Many other TFLs have also posted shots of good-looking 100% WW loaves too
I meant "unreachable by me". Here are my more recent ones, which aren't bad Workday 100% Whole Wheat
I finally got up the courage to try 85% hydration, which has a somewhat open crumb. Then by accident, I made a batch at 90% hydration with a significantly open crumb, especially for whole wheat. I might be able to get better volume with more folds. One issue is that my wife loves this bread with walnuts. Getting an open crumb with 85-90% hydration when it's weighed down with 15% walnuts is a real challenge.
Here is a photo from the WSU Breadlab of 100% WW loaf and croissants WSU 100% Whole Wheat When I saw this a few years ago, I never thought I get close. But I'm happy with what I have so far.
I suggest taking the 3rd ed. of Bread for a test drive from the library. I bought a used copy of the 1st ed. for $14. When the 3rd ed. came out, I got a copy from the library to look at the new recipes. There were a few that were interesting, so I copied them for personal use (allowed by copyright law). There weren't enough new recipes in the 3rd ed. for me to shell out the $50, and some recipes I liked were dropped.