Focaccia texture and crumb help
I have recently changed the method with which I make focaccia and have noticed some differences in texture that I can’t pinpoint the reasons for
Previous method:
Mix (cold water)
S&F x 4 - every 30min
BF (12hrs total)
Divide & Proof (2-3hrs)
Bake - 26m 230C
Current method:
Mix (warm water)
S&F x 4 - every 30min
BF (4-5hrs total)
Divide & Cold Proof (12hrs)
Bake - 26m 230C
The recipe is identical other than the fact that for the shorter bulk ferment I use much warmer water to speed things up.
The flavour is better with the cold retard but I have lost some softness and fluffiness in the crumb.
Also the cold proof seems to inhibit a thin and crisp crust, which I could achieve with the ambient proof but which is now thicker and chewier.
Both methods are delicious but it seems to be a trade off for flavour over texture.
Wondering if anyone could shed some light on factors as to why this might be
Does a faster and warmer bulk make for a denser crumb?
Does an ambient proof make for crispier and lighter bread?
Is there a way to achieve BOTH flavour and softness?
More broadly are we sacrificing potential texture by cold retarding? (baguettes especially come to mind)
You don't mention two points that could be important -
1. Do you do any of the proofing at room temperature before retarding it?
2. Do you bake directly from the cold retard, or do you let the loaves warm up first?
With no period of warm proof, the loaves could be underproofed. My (unscientific) rule of thumb is that when you put dough into the refrigerator you get about an hour's worth of fermentation before it gets cold enough to nearly stop more fermentation.
Baking from cold (compared with from room temperature) would have the effect of slowing transmission of heat into the interior until the surface heats up - that is, the crust should bake more than the inside compared with baking from warm. Also, the interior of the loaf will take longer to heat up to baking levels, and all that extra time the surface will be cooking more. I'm not sure how that would all work out, but it is a change from your previous process, and a change that could easily end up cooking the crust more.
Thanks for your reply :)
1. I proof at room temp for about an hour to let the dough relax and become easier to stretch to fill the pan before I cold retard, I guess a sort of pre-shape
2. The dough sits out of the fridge at ambient temp while the oven preheats (roughly 30-40min). It still goes in to the oven a lot colder than had I proofed at ambient temp
Re: proofing I am aiming to reach the same level of proof with both methods. The main difference I guess is that I’m baking from a colder temp as you point out - and the dough is proofing at a colder longer temp.
Perhaps I could skip the pre-shape step and transfer that time to a longer ambient rest after the cold retard?
Good idea.
The only reason to do a pre-shape, I think, is to be able to form the final loaf without the dough being too stiff or non-extensible. I often stretch the dough during preform to stiffen it up (so it won't slump much during proofing), then let it rest to relax a little. With your wet dough being cold, it may work well to skip the preform.
TomP