The Fresh Loaf

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tiny bubbles

Mainland's picture
Mainland

tiny bubbles

I have been using a good baguette recipe from Daniel Stevens' River Cottage Bread Handbook.  It seems similar to most basic baguette recipes. Nice taste, good shape, color... BUT no matter what I try the texture of the crumb is cakey tiny bubbles. How do I get that light airy physical texture of big rolling air pockets? I have tried: more kneading, less kneading, butter, oil, milk, more rise time, less rise time, wetter dough, dryer dough, longer cook time, shorter cook time, higher temp, lower temp, more yeast, less yeast, sourdough. Been working on it for most of a year. Always nice tasty bread, always soft enough, but not too much, always looks good....ALWAYS no air in it; too heavy.  Any ideas?

Mainland

Lazy Loafer's picture
Lazy Loafer

I'm not familiar with that recipe, but if you've tried changing everything and still aren't happy with the bread, perhaps it's time for a new recipe! I've had great success with this one from Bread magazine (online) > https://bread-magazine.com/sourdough-bread-recipe/. He shapes his into boules, but I shape mine into long loaves (baked in Italian bread pans, not baguette pans, but basically the same just a bit fatter!).

In general, I don't think enriching the dough (with any fat or dairy) will help, and gentle handling (i.e. stretch & fold rather than kneading) usually helps to retain the holes. Also, try different flour (such as an unbleached AP flour rather than strong bread flour, or vice versa, depending on what you are using now).

alfanso's picture
alfanso

Hi Mainland,

I have a fair amount of experience with baguettes, so I may be able to guide you too.  Are you looking for an IDY baguette with commercial yeast or a SD baguette using natural starters and levain?  That matters a lot.  One with all white AP flour or some whole grain too?  Here are suggestions for baguettes that may make your day.  They will all take time.  Whichever you choose, if any, please post your results on TFL.

You will notice that the common link between all of these is that they are originally imagined by one of the senior contributors to this website, David Snyder.

For a commercial yeasted baguette, this formula is as easy as they come.

Bouabsa Double Hydration Baguette

By David Snyder and Janedo

Summer 2008

Timing

  • Day 1 – Mix, Autolyse & Fold dough – 1.75 hour (overnight – 21-24 hours)
  • Day 2 – Divide, Shape, Proof and Bake – 1.5 hours

 

Ingredients

Baker's %

Wt. (g)

Wt. (g) +25%

Wt. (g) +50%

AP flour

100

570

710

855

Water

75

(425 total)

(530 total)

(635 total)

For Autolyse

 

370

460

555

For Mix

 

55

70

80

Salt

2

11.4

14.25

17.1

Instant Dried Yeast

0.16

0.91

1.14

1.37

Total

177.16

1007

1255

1508

 Method

 Day 1

  1. Mix Flour & Yeast by hand until just incorporated.  Add 87% Water.  Autolyse 30 minutes.
  2. Add remaining 13% Water and Salt.  Pinch & Fold.
  3. French Fold ~300.
  4. 3 sets of Stretch & Fold every 20 minutes for 1 hour.  Dough will feel silky, moist and extensible.
  5. Refrigerate for 21-24 hours.

Day 2

  1. Warm up for 1 hour.
  2. Divide into 3 and Pre Shape.  Rest for 15 minutes.
  3. Oven to 480 F.
  4. Shape and prove on couche for 45 minutes.
  5. Steam Oven & Bake for 20 minutes total.

 For overnight retard with dough already shaped and couched:

  • Allow 30 minutes post 3rd S&F for bench rest.  This should replace some of the proof time that version 1 allows for.
  • Allow retard from anywhere from 1-5 or 6 hours before divide.
  • Shape a little less tightly than with version 1.
  • Flour couche generously, as the long retard on couche will wick a lot of moisture.
  • Score and bake directly from the retard.

Here is a TFL link to the Bouabsa Baguette

 

The next is an all white AP flour levain baguette, also easy:

Sourdough baguettes: 72% Gosselin's "baguettes tradition"

By DMSnyder

Oct. 2012

 Timing

  • Day 1 – Mix Liquid Levain - 30 minutes (overnight)
  • Day 2 – Autolyse F & LL - 30 minutes (overnight)
  • Day 3 – Mix, ferment and bake – 4 hours

Liquid levain

Wt. (g)

Baker's %

Wt. (g) +25%

Flour mix

100

100

125

Water

100

100

125

Firm starter (50% hydration)

40

40

50

Total

240

240

300

Notes:

  1. The “Flour mix” is 70% AP, 20% WW and 10% whole rye flour.
  2. The mix at +25% is 85g WF, 25g WW, 15g Rye

 

Ingredients

Wt. (g)

Baker's %

Wt. (g) + 25%

Organic AP Flour

400

100

500

Ice Water

260

69

325

For Cold Retard

215

 

270

For Mix

45

 

55

Salt

8.75

2

10.94

Liquid Levain

200

50

250

Instant yeast (optional)

¼ tsp

 

¼ tsp

Total

868.75 g

221

1085.94

Notes: Accounting for the flour and water in the levain, the total flour is 500 g and the total water is 375 g, making the actual dough hydration 72%. The actual salt percentage is 1.75%.

 Method

DAY 1

  1. Mix Liquid Levain.

DAY 2

  1. The day or night before baking, mix the flour and levain with 215g of ice water and immediately refrigerate. At +25% adjust the water to 270g.

DAY3:

  1. Add the salt and 45g of ice water to the dough and mix thoroughly. At +25% adjust the water to 55g.  Add Instant yeast (optional).
  2. 200-300 French folds.  Dough will seem comfortably stiff.
  3. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl with a tight cover.
  4. 4 S&F in 2 hours, every 25 minutes.  Very extensible and slack throughout.
  5. Rest after final S&F – 20 minutes refrigeration. 
  6. Divide & pre-shape - 10 minutes.  Dough will be silky but still slack and moist.  Pre shape short.
  7. Shape and prove on couche - ~30-35 minutes.  Shaping will be very slack.
  8. An hour before baking, pre-heat the oven to 500ºF, with baking stone and steaming apparatus in place.
  9. Score and bake immediately at 470ºF, with steam for 12 minutes, and for about 22 minutes total.
  10. Bake 12 minutes steam (2 cups very hot water on lava rocks), separate & rotate 180 front to back, then 8-10 minutes more after rotating.

 If you wish to bake directly out of the refrigerator you can follow the method at the bottom of the Bouabsa baguette formula.

Here is a TFL link to the Gosselin 72% hydration levain baguettes .

 

And the third here is for a levain (SD) baguette with ~11% whole grain.

San Joaquin Sourdough Baguettes & Batards

By DMSnyder

April 1, 2013

"My San Joaquin Sourdough originated in Anis Bouabsa's."

Timing

  • Day 1 – mix Liquid Levain – 30 minutes
  • Day 2 – mix dough, French Folds & ferment – 4 hours (24 hour rest)
  • Day 3 – Bake – 2.5 hours 

 

Liquid Levain ingredients

Wt (g)

Bakers %

Wt (g) +25%

Wt (g) +50%

Wt (g) +88%

AP Flour

37.5

70

43.5

57

70

WW Flour

10

20

12.5

15

19

Medium rye Flour

5

10

6.5

7.5

9.5

Water

52.5

100

63

80

100

Liquid starter

22

40

25.5

33

42

Total

127

240

150

192.5

240.5

 

Final dough ingredients

Wt (g)

Wt (g) +25%

Wt (g) +50%

Wt (g) +88%

AP Flour

450

562.5

675

845

WW Flour

25

31.25

37.5

45

Medium rye Flour

25

31.25

37.5

45

Water

350

437.5

525

660

Salt

10

12.5

15

18.8

Liquid levain

100

125

150

190

Total

960

1200

1440

1804

 

Total ingredients

Wt (g)

Bakers %

Wt (g) +25%

Wt (g) +50%

Wt (g) +88%

AP Flour

479

89

600

720

900.5

WW Flour

33

6

42

50

62

Medium rye Flour

29

5

36

45

54.5

Water

392

72

490

590

737

Salt

10

1.8

12.5

15

18.8

Liquid starter

17

3

22

25

32

Total

960

176.8

1200

1445

1804

9.2% of the flour is pre-fermented

 Method

 DAY 1:

  1. Mix levain. Ferment at room temp covered, until surface is bubbly and wrinkled. (8-12 hours)

 DAY 2:

  1. Dissolve levain in water, add flours and mix. Cover and autolyse for 30 minutes.
  2. Add salt and mix to incorporate. 300 French Folds.
  3. Transfer to a clean, lightly oiled bowl and cover tightly.
  4. Bulk ferment for 3-4 hours with 5 letter folds every 30 minutes, then refrigerate. The dough should have expanded by about 50% and be full of small bubbles.
  5. Refrigerate for 18-24 hours.

 DAY 3:

  1. Divide and pre-shape as logs or round.
  2. Cover and allow to rest for 60 minutes.
  3. Shape and proof for 45 minutes, covered.
  4. An hour before baking, pre-heat oven to 500ºF, with baking stone and steaming apparatus in place.
  5. Bake at 480ºF 12 minutes steam (2 cups very hot water on lava rocks), separate & rotate 180 front to back, then 8-10 minutes more after rotating.

 If you wish to bake directly out of the refrigerator you can follow the method at the bottom of the Bouabsa baguette formula.

Here is a TFL link to the San Joaquin Sourdough (SJSD) Baguette 

MichaelLily's picture
MichaelLily

Sounds like it's either in the handling or in the flour-- higher protein content flours generally have tighter crumbs.

Mainland's picture
Mainland

Thanks all!

That's good information.It's going to take me a while to assimilate all of it.  I thought of the issue with high protein flour. I am using a locally milled organic bread flour from a health food shop, but have also tried substituting basic AP flour at several different proportions (including 100%). No effect -   still tiny bubbles and heavy cake.  Odd. I thought almost certainly that was it.

I have a really great Scottish Oatcake recipe that really came to life when I included a bit of this flour. And it makes tasty bread (though for some reason, still weighty.)

The recipe is simple:

half the flour (50%), all the water(60%), all the yeast(1%) - form batter, let ferment.

rest of flour (other 50%), salt (1%), oil (3%) knead 12 mins, rise to double, punch, rise

bake at 500 10 mins., 400 10 mins. cool.

Sometimes I use rye to dust. Nice taste. Changes nothing.

My results have been well liked by all, except the texture is heavy. Tiny bubbles.

Thanks for all the amazing info. I will study all of it.

 

Mainland's picture
Mainland
Mainland's picture
Mainland

James_Grant's picture
James_Grant

Thanks for information.

James_Grant's picture
James_Grant

Thanks for information.