The Fresh Loaf

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Schwarzbrot and Le Fraisier (updated)

hansjoakim's picture
hansjoakim

Schwarzbrot and Le Fraisier (updated)

There are a couple of things you can do with stale bread. Loaves that are past their prime can still be enjoyed for toast or paninis. Dried slices of lighter bread make for awesome croûtons. Not too spoilt breadcrumbs go well in stuffings or even in biscottis. Sourdough leavened pain de campagne is an awesome choice for putting in fishcakes. If you're really adventurous, hearty rye loaves mixed with rye starter, molasses, water and raisins can be made into kvas. If you're, as me, not that adventurous yet, you can slice stale rye bread, toast it until it's dry and dark (but not carbon), and put it into a new loaf of bread. If all else fails, stale bread is good bird fodder ;)

I recently made a boule of Hamelman's black bread - a 60/40 sourdough rye bread, where stale bread is mixed with ground coffee, vegetable oil and hot water. I mixed the soaker at same time I set the sourdough, and the overnight soak turned the mix into a (not very appealing) dark water slurry. I heated the soaker slightly to get the right DDT, and mixed the dough:

Mixed Schwarzbrot

I used bread flour instead of Hamelman's suggestion of high-gluten flour, so the dough came together after approximately 6 minutes in the mixer. By then it was well developed and pretty strong when I tugged at it.

Here's the fully proofed dough:

Proofed Schwarzbrot

It has a lovely brown, almost chocolate-y colour to it, and a heady aroma of fermented rye flour and strong, black coffee. The  aroma became even headier and more penetrating as the loaf baked:

Baking Schwarzbrot

 

The loaf weighs in at about 1 kg, so it baked for 45 minutes.

Baked Schwarzbrot

The loaf has a dark, crackly crust and an intense smell of dark coffee.

Side view of Schwarzbrot

I really like it - the flavour is unlike any other rye sourdoughs I've made. There are no hints of sweetness to it (as there are no molasses or other sweeteners/colour agents in the dough), but rather a subtle roasted coffee flavour that fits brilliantly with the taste of a 60/40 rye. I didn't include any caraway seeds or other herbs or spices, but I would like to try some dark caraway seeds next time, since Hamelman suggests that these pair nicely with the flavour of this black bread.

Side view of Schwarzbrot

Have a go at it! I think you'll enjoy it.

Added:

Crumb Schwarzbrot

As you can see, whether it's a black bread or not is certainly debatable - at least compared to a fully fledged Pumpernickel. But it's still very dark in colour as compared to other 60% medium rye loaves.

PS: Any other tips for what to do with stale bread?

 

The first locally grown, fully ripe strawberries are filling up the shelves at the local grocery store. Earlier this week, I couldn't resist the tempting berries anymore and went a little over board. They're absolutely delicious - soft, juicy and sweet with an almost blood red colour. This was the perfect opportunity to have a go at the Fraisier - a French strawberry cake. Some of the prettiest Fraisiers I've seen on the net, are the ones at La Tartine Gourmande, Tartelette and at Foodbeam (everything they make are stunning, and their takes on the Fraisier are no exceptions). I was stoked to be able to have a crack at this myself.

The Fraisier is traditionally a genoise cake base split in two and soaked in Grand Marnier cake syrup. The two layers are sandwiching a stack of strawberries and heavenly crème mousseline (crème patissière mixed with softened butter to make a buttercream slightly lighter than a typical meringue-based buttercream), and topped with a thin layer of marzipan.

Here, I'm in the middle of assembly:

Making Le Fraisier

Some hulled strawberries are divided in two, and lined along the rim, while whole, hulled strawberries make up the interior. Crème mousseline is then piped over this, before the second genoise layer is pressed on top, to flush the cream. Top the second genoise layer with a thin layer of crème mousseline, before chilling the cake in the fridge to firm it up.

After being chilled, a thin coat of marzipan is put on top. Here's how it turned out with my rather sparse top decorations:

Le Fraisier

 

This cake is all about good summer vibes. It's filled with fresh strawberries, the luscious taste of vanilla and soft butter from the crème mousseline, backdropped with the smooth Grand Marnier syrup.

Le Fraisier

If you have even more strawberries lying around (as I did - as said, I went a bit overboard), they're great on a tart, resting on a pillow of crème chantilly folded into pastry cream:

Strawberry tart

Comments

Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

I so wish I could bake a 60% rye here but until I find a source for rye, I'm stretching my last kilo as long as possible.  Boy is your loaf beautiful!  I did find a possible place to hunt in Seoul and will be going there on the morrow.   My husband will be with me to carry all the bags of flour and make sure I'm well stocked. 

Do you have a crumb shot?

Mini

hansjoakim's picture
hansjoakim

First of all, thanks for the compliments!! :) I really appreciate your kind words.

@ MiniO: I added a photo of the crumb in the original post. It's the inner qualities that matter, right? Saddle a huge backpack on your hubby! I hope you're able to find rye. Do you have any idea what kind of rye flour you'll get your hands on?

@ Reuben: Oh, bread chips! Great idea :)

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Your 1 kg ryes are so pretty! I need to get a larger brotform. The ones I have are about 20 cm and will accommodate about 750 gms of dough. How big is the one you use? It looks like about 29 cm.

You've inspired me. I'm going to make my first Detmolder 3-stage 70% rye this weekend. My local source of whole rye flour has just stopped carrying it. Total bummer! I think I have just enough KAF Medium Rye left to do the 70% rye. 

Maybe Mini can send me some rye flour. Hmmmm ... I think Leader has a formula for Seoulful German Rye Bread.

Another use for old rye bread is as "altus." It has an interesting effect on the crumb - It seems to tenderize it and improve shelf life, but I don't have a lot of experience behind this impression.

David

xaipete's picture
xaipete (not verified)

I love your description of the loaf, Hans! It really is a work of art. You keep turning out these wonderful ryes. I'm planning on making the one you wrote up for me, I just have to figure out a way to get the rye meal.

--Pamela

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, Pamela.

As I understand the terms, "rye meal" is the same as "pumpernickel flour." You can get it from KAF.

David

xaipete's picture
xaipete (not verified)

Hey, thanks David. I was thinking it was some kind of rye chops. I'll put it on my KA order. But isn't that just whole grain rye? Isn't that what I get when I grind my own rye berries?

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/12597/plat-du-jour#comment-73263

--Pamela

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, Pamela.

I'm no milling expert, but I have the impression that "meal" is made in a different manner than "flour," so even coarsely-ground flour has a different consistency than meal. Does it make a difference in the final product? I would bet not much, if any.

Yes. Pumpernickel is whole grain rye meal, as I understand it. You know what I'd do? I'd call KAF (assuming their bakery is open today) and ask one of the bakers. I've found them to be extremely helpful. Their tech. assistance line is: 1-800-827-6836.

David

xaipete's picture
xaipete (not verified)

I called them. The pumpernickel is fine ground whole grain rye. Rye meal is coarse ground whole grain rye.

So I guess I can grind my own, some fine and some coarse.

Thanks for the tip about the help line.

--Pamela

weavershouse's picture
weavershouse (not verified)

I had a live chat with KAF and it worked great. Whoever it was I was chatting with was very nice and very helpful. When the person I was talking to didn't know the answer she went to ask other bakers. Before I closed down I made a copy of our conversation. Worked great.

xaipete's picture
xaipete (not verified)

Live Chat.

I'll try it next time. I got bumped to the bakers by phoning as well.

--Pamela

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, Pamela.

What you say KAF told you is different from my understanding. Interesting. If that's true, I could use KAF Pumpernickel flour in lieu of the Giusto's rye flour my WFM stopped stocking.

Comparing the two, Giusto's is more finely ground, but I have never used any other pumpernickel flour but that I got from KAF, so I can't compare apples to apples.

David

xaipete's picture
xaipete (not verified)

And they passed me right to a baker too for the info I requested. I've not seen Guisto's rye so I don't know what it looks like. But there is also Bob's Red Mill. I order from them and also buy their products in markets.

Bob's: pumpernickel (coarse?), dark (whole meal fine?), light (bran extracted fine?), cracked (flaked?), and creamy (steamed?. Not sure what to make of all that. Perhaps I should give them a call too.

--Pamela

hansjoakim's picture
hansjoakim

Thank you ever so much for your comments! They are great motivators for future bakes :)

David: Those words are the nicest compliments you could've given me! It's an inspiration to hear that you're tackling a 3-step sourdough build. Best of luck, and, as always, I'm eagerly awaiting your weekendly write-up. The brotform in the photo above is designed for 1 kg dough, and the top diameter is 24 cm. That's pretty much spot on for my wheat-based doughs, but you can cram even heavier rye doughs into them (since they don't expand as much). I really love using brotforms. I was lucky enough to acquire these from a German retailer a few months back; he sent me two of the 1 kg round forms and two 0.75 kg ovals for batards. Personally, I find that I prefer to shape wheat-based doughs into batards and these ryes into boules.

Pamela: I'm excited to hear that you're having a go at that rye meal-soaker loaf! There's no such thing as "rye meal" here in Norway, so I'm just guessing what the American counterpart is. But it sounds like you're on the right track: The stuff I used, is called "Coarse whole rye flour" (translated). It's whole rye (100% extraction), looks quite dark grey, with lots of coarse bran particles and things in it.

xaipete's picture
xaipete (not verified)

I'm excited to have a go at it. Thanks for this additional information.

--Pamela

xaipete's picture
xaipete (not verified)

If you had put blueberries on it instead of pistachios it would have been perfect for our 4th of July! It looks too good to eat, Hans. Truly a work of art.

--Pamela

Debra Wink's picture
Debra Wink

The bread is beautiful Hans, but that Fraisier is a work of art. Thank you for sharing.   -dw

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Simply stunning!

Your pastries are amazing, hansjoakim.

David

hansjoakim's picture
hansjoakim

Thanks a bunch! :)

You know, I thought strawberries would go well with all the rumoured Detmolder (David) and rye (Pamela) business going down over the weekend...

Paddyscake's picture
Paddyscake

Yum! This is the low cal version, right! Your breads and baked goods are always gorgeous.

Betty

PS re Stale bread : Try using your stale bread in a strata, either savory or sweet. Eggs, sausage and cheese or eggs, berries and cream cheese. Whip it up the night before and tuck it in the oven in the morning, while you catch a couple more winks, almost breakfast in bed.

hansjoakim's picture
hansjoakim

The Roux brothers describe the cream as "not as rich as buttercream" and being "very light and palatable." Apparently, light isn't the same as low fat.

Strata is a great idea. This one looks pretty good.