Whole Wheat Oatmeal Sourdough Hokkaido Milk Bread
We will be visiting friends tomorrow, and I wanted to bring a loaf of bread. We also ran out of bread, don’t know how that happens 😂, so decided to bake two loaves. I rarely bake more than one loaf. Since one of my Pullman pans is in Fort Lauderdale, I prepared the dough and after bulk fermentation divided it, shaped the one loaf, and cold retarded the other dough overnight to bake today. This worked out quite well.
I don’t think I’ve ever made an oatmeal porridge loaf with 20% oatmeal. I wanted to see how this would turn out. I prepared the oatmeal as I would a tangzhong, and it worked well this way with great oven spring despite the amount of oatmeal. Other than shaping differences, I don’t think there are any discernible differences between the two loaves. However, I haven’t yet tried the second loaf since that will be going to our friends tomorrow.
For two 9x4x4” Pullman pan loaves
Ingredients for 1 loaf
Tangzhong
Rolled Oats 82 g
Milk 163 g
Stiff Sweet Levain
Starter 21 g
Brown sugar 21 g
Water 27 g
WW flour 61
Final Dough
All tangzhong
All stiff sweet levain
1 lg egg 52 g
Milk 151 g
Salt 5.6 g
Sugar 18 g
WW flour 266 g
Butter 52 g
Instructions
Levain
Mix the levain ingredients in a jar or pyrex container with space for at least 300% growth.
Press down with your knuckles or silicone spatula to create a uniform surface and to push out air.
At a temperature of 76-78ºF, it typically takes up to 10-12 hours for this sweet stiff levain to be at peak. For my starter I typically see 3-3.5 times increase in size at peak. The levain will smell sweet with only a mild tang.
Tangzhong
In a sauce pan set on medium heat, stir the milk and rolled oats. Then cook for several minutes until well thickened, stirring regularly with a spoon or heat-resistant spatula. Let cool in the pan or, for faster results, in a new bowl. Theoretically it should reach 65ºC (149ºF) but I don’t find I need to measure the temperature as the tangzhong gelatinizes at this temperature. You can prepare this the night before and refrigerate it, ensure that it is covered to prevent it from drying out.
If you plan on using a stand mixer to mix this dough, set up a Bain Marie and use your stand mixer’s bowl to prepare the tangzhong.
Dough
In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the milk (consider holding back 10 g of milk and adding later if this is the first time you’re making this), egg, tangzhong, salt, sugar and levain. Mix and then break up the levain into many smaller pieces. Next add the flours. I like to use my spatula to mix until there aren’t many dry areas. Allow the flour to hydrate (fermentolyse) for 20-30 minutes. Mix on low speed and then medium speed until moderate gluten development this may take 5-10 mins. You may want to scrape the sides of the bowl during the first 5 minutes of mixing. Next add room temperature butter one pat at a time. The dough may come apart, be patient, continue to mix until it comes together before adding in more butter. You will want to check gluten development by windowpane during this time and stop mixing when you get a good windowpane. You should be able to pull a good windowpane, not quite as good as a white flour because the bran will interrupt the windowpane somewhat.
To develop by hand, melt the butter and add it with the wet ingredients.
On the counter, shape the dough into a tight ball, cover in the bowl and ferment for 4-6 hours at 82ºF ending bulk fermentation once the dough has risen 30-40%.
You can next place the dough into the fridge to chill the dough for about 1.5 hours, this makes rolling the dough easier to shape. Remember, if you do so the final proof will take longer. Alternatively, you can do a cold retard in the fridge overnight, however, you may find that this increases the tang in your bread.
Prepare your pans by greasing them with butter or line with parchment paper.
Lightly oil the top of the dough. Scrape the dough out onto a clean counter top and divide it into four. I like to weigh them to have equal sized lobes. Shape each tightly into a boule, allow to rest 5 mins. Using an oiled rolling pin roll each ball out and then letterfold. Turn 90* and using a rolling pin roll each out to at least 8”. Letterfold again from the sides so you have a long narrow dough. Then using a rolling pin, roll flatter but keeping the dough relatively narrow. The reason to do this extra letterfold is that the shorter fatter rolls when placed in the pan will not touch the sides of the pan. This allows the swirled ends to rise during final proof, this is only done for appearance sake and is not necessary. Next roll each into a tight roll with some tension. Arrange the rolls of dough inside your lined pan alternating the direction of the swirls. This should allow a greater rise during proof and in the oven.
Cover and let proof for 4-6 hours at a warm temperature. I proof at 82°F. You will need longer than 4-6 hours if you chilled your dough for shaping. I proof until the top of the dough comes to within 1 cm of the top edge of the pan. At this point the dough should have risen 130-140% in total from the start of bulk fermentation.
Preheat the oven to 350F and brush the dough with the egg-milk wash. Just prior to baking brush with the egg-milk wash again.
Bake the loaves for 50 minutes or until the internal temperature is at least 190ºF, rotating as needed to get even browning. Shield your loaf if it gets brown early in the baking process. After 50 mins remove the bread from the pan and bake a further 10 mins by placing the loaf directly in the oven on the rack with the oven turned down to 325ºF.
Comments
Here are some photos of the crumb. I fine even crumb is the aim with this style of bread. Something that you can spread jam or almost any topping on without too much worry about the spread dripping through the slice.
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Just as much inside as outside, I would add. Well played, Benito.
Paul
Thank you, Paul. I was very happy with these bakes, especially since one loaf is a gift.
Benny
Each new refinement is a pleasure to behold. Lovely crumb too. Filed in the back of my mind is the idea of simply soaking the oats in boiling water as Lin did, and not sure how your oats are different from a regular oat porridge.
Cheeky comment time, I would have a rude nickname for that aliquot cylinder!
-Jon
Thank you Jon always. I’m not sure that the oatmeal that I made for this bread is anything unusual.
ok so what is the cheeky name you have for that aliquot jar?
Benny
Let's just say that the aliquot is pleased to see you!
😂😂
just to figure out what cheeky name you have in mind, Jon. Stretching my imagination.......
Beautiful, elegant bread, Benny! Love it. Great colour, stunning texture. Regarding Jon's comment on the difference between your oat tangzhong and regular porridge: most oat porridges are cooked at 300% hydration before they are integrated into the loaf. For my 50% oat loaf I soaked the oats at 150% overnight in room temp milk then stored in the fridge to absorb all fluid but retain lots of bite. Your tangzhong is interesting at 200% hydration and a lower temp and shorter cooking duration compared to regular porridge. I wonder if this somewhat in between method retains some bite but still benefits from enough gelatinization of cooking the oats in fluid!
- Lin
Thank you for your kind comments Lin! Yes my oatmeal was cooked for both a shorter time and at a lower hydration than most probably are. I wanted to try using oatmeal using the same ratio as I would any tangzhong to see how it would turn out. The oats do have a bit of a bite but not really very much. At the end of cooking the starches did appear to be fully gelatinized. The oatmeal didn’t seem to negatively affect the dough handling and behaved as I would have expected a wholegrain tangzhong. So I am quite pleased with this and would probably not change it in the future.
Benny
Well dinner doesn’t really work 🤣. Looks like another great bake…you’ve gotten the hang of these style bakes..no disputing that! One of these days I have to try one…I promise 😉
Happy baking!
Ian
Thank you Ian. I’d be honored if you ever baked one of these. Yes I guess I’m getting repetitive with my baking and falling into a bit of a creative rut. Having more periods of being away from home I find gets me out of the groove of thinking about what to bake next. Hopefully I’ll come up with something interesting in the near future. However, we do have a couple of trips in the next several months.
Happy baking!
Benny