The Fresh Loaf

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50% Emmer

WatertownNewbie's picture
WatertownNewbie

50% Emmer

Over the past couple of years I have searched for an emmer recipe that I liked.  This bread will be my go-to for emmer.

The evening before, I mixed the levain, which consisted of 30 g of starter, 80 g of emmer flour, 80 g of bread flour, and 180 g of water.  That sat covered at room temperature for slightly over twelve hours, during which time it expanded and became bubbly.

The next day I mixed all of the final dough ingredients, which were 300 g of emmer flour, 300 g of bread flour, 325 g of the levain, 335 g of water, and 15 g of salt.  Initially I simply mixed to uniformity (i.e., all flour moistened, everything distributed roughly, a shaggy dough) and then left the dough covered for 30 minutes.  The next step involved developing the gluten, which occurred via 300 French folds.  The dough then rested covered for 45 minutes until the first of several stretch-and-folds.

With a kitchen temperature of 72F and dough temperature of 73F (measured after the French fold session), I knew that the bulk fermentation stage would take a while.  Following the first stretch-and-fold, I did three more at roughly fifty minute intervals.  Each gave me a chance to feel the dough as it progressed through the bulk fermentation, which lasted a shade over five hours.  By then the dough was feeling softer and pillowy and certainly not as tightly elastic as just after the French folds.

Opting not to do a bench rest, I immediately shaped the dough and put it into a banneton, which I placed inside a plastic bag.  Proofing took an hour and nineteen minutes.  I use two aluminum pie pans with lava rocks for steam, and I poured water into one of them just before inserting the loaf into the oven and then poured water into the other pan just after.

The bake took 47 minutes at 440F and produced a really nice loaf (weight 1161 g).  Here are photos of the crumb as well as a couple of slices.

Lastly, I should give Tom (aka tpassin) some credit for inspiring this recipe.  He posted a spelt recipe some time ago, and I had played around with that a bit and then substituted emmer flour in place of the spelt for this recipe.  If you are looking for a nice simple recipe to make a really great emmer bread, try this one.

Comments

5 is nice's picture
5 is nice

I could very well see how it would be your go-to loaf of emmer. I got interested in more ancient grains a few months ago, but I was not ready yet to dive in, mostly because I thought the flours were pricey. I now want to delve in, and this post too, is pushing me over. But, alas, the only shop I know of that sells emmer is currently out of stock, along with almost all the other ancient grains the shop offered. Guess I have to wait.

WatertownNewbie's picture
WatertownNewbie

Thanks for the compliments, and I hope you are inspired to get some emmer.  My source is Barton Springs (in Texas), which has great flours and customer service.  As an aside, I should mention that their Danko Rye is incredible.  You might have to spend more than at your local store, but Barton Springs has nice emmer flour as well as einkorn and other ancient grains.

Happy baking.

Ted

5 is nice's picture
5 is nice

I sure am inspired to get some emmer. Unfortunately, I live in Indonesia and my only reasonable choice for ancient grain flour is repacked from Wholegrain Milling Company in Australia. Pretty sure that I cannot get Barton Springs here, and looking at their prices on the site I probably also can't afford that much of it either. I have only tracked one (online) store here that carries the emmer along with other ancient grains (from said source), and they are out of stock currently. Rye flour (from Wholegrain Milling Co. and other sources) seems to be in good availablility here, the stock is quite consistent and tons of online stores carry them. But ancient grains are pretty much close to non-existent here AFAIK, except the spelt at a relatively really steep price (3x more expensive than whole-wheat, which itself is also 3x more expensive than white flour).

tpassin's picture
tpassin

Very nicely done! You were able to balance out the emmer's extensibility beautifully. So now you get to enjoy that emmer taste bonus.  Nice!

TomP

WatertownNewbie's picture
WatertownNewbie

The real key for me was the hydration, which I dialed back a bit from the first attempt.  Clearly a somewhat open crumb is possible at a hydration level that keeps the dough intact.  As you also observed, the balance between elasticity and extensibility seems to be there too.

Happy baking.

Ted

tpassin's picture
tpassin

BTW, if you like biscuits (UK: scones), emmer biscuits are very delicious.  I tried them because so many books and articles on biscuits  emphasize using  very soft flour.  I figured that the weaker, very extensible emmer flour would play that role well.

Here's the recipe I used. Quantities are US measurements:

Formula
--------
- 5 oz sifted emmer flour
- 3 tbl grated salted butter
- 2 tsp baking powder
- buttermilk - enough to make a soft, slightly wet dough.

Note that I didn't add any salt because the salted butter usually adds enough for my taste. If you add any, try half the amount you normally would. I find that works well for me.

albacore's picture
albacore

A beauty, Ted! Perfect ear and what looks like good volume for 50% Emmer. How was the flavour?

Lance

WatertownNewbie's picture
WatertownNewbie

Thanks, Lance.  The flavor is very nice.  I do not have the best taste buds for detecting differences between flavors, but my wife really liked this bread too.  It definitely is not your standard bread flour or all-purpose loaf.

The ear is the result of having a dough with nice gluten structure (achieved via the lengthy bulk fermentation) and strength to support oven spring (certainly the three hundred French folds didn't hurt)..  I was pleased with the ear.

Happy baking.

Ted

Benito's picture
Benito

Really beautiful loaf Ted, both inside and out especially considering it is about 50% whole emmer.  I still haven’t baked anything with emmer and haven’t seen it in quite sometime.  I’ll have to look for it again soon.

Benny

WatertownNewbie's picture
WatertownNewbie

Always nice to receive a compliment from you.  As I mentioned above, Barton Springs is a good source for emmer and other flours.

Happy baking.

Ted

trailrunner's picture
trailrunner

I love Emmer and Spelt and Eincorn. All the Barton Springs flours have been wonderful to work with. I am glad to see your bread. I am waiting on their Nov/Dec sale and will stock back up on a bunch of things . I have been trying to use up everything in my storage fridge. I look forward to trying this . c

WatertownNewbie's picture
WatertownNewbie

Thank you for your nice comments.  Please do try this recipe and post your result.  It is always nice to inspire someone to bake a particular bread, and I certainly have benefited from baking breads posted by others.

Happy baking.

Ted