Abel's 90% biga with instant yeast and 15 hours at cool temp
With all of the discussion around biga on thefreshloaf lately, I thought I'd owe it to myself to faithfully make Abel's 90% biga bread which has become one of those famous recipes here. This time I tried to make it exactly as per the recipe. In the last month I've tried Rene's idea of a 50% biga with sourdough, and I've also tried a similar idea of a long 24 hour fermented biga made with sourdough at 90% biga.
For me, the promise of the biga method is the extra smell and flavour from the biga, and maybe also that dough handling is better because you seem to be granted an extra special window of time where fermentation has advanced quite a bit, but gluten development has been minimal or at least fundamentally different enough that you can still develop a strong gluten. That is, provided you are working from 'strands' of 'just mixed enough' biga!
One of the things that has kept me away from Abel's method was the requirement for keeping the biga at 14-16°C, especially since I don't have a wine cellar or own a wine fridge. However, I seem to have figured out a good enough method here - I used my proofer switched off, which is essentially a polystyrene box, to which I added an additional bowl with 2 ice bricks and ice to keep things cool.
The biga was initially mixed using the famous method of two chopsticks just until there were strands or threads of dough, perhaps I was a little too much on the minimalist side because I did leave more unmixed flour at the bottom of the bowl than I would have liked. The initial dough temperature after mixing was 22°C (room temperature water), which went down slowly overnight and at the end of the 15 hours before use it had reached 13.7°C.
This bake was done with instant yeast and the flours used were 90% Caputo Manitoba Oro and 10% Lowerland wholewheat. 1kg of the two flours were mixed together, and then 900g of that was used for the biga and 100g was reserved for the final dough. Mixing of the final dough was done similarly to how Alan and Lance recommended on the original post by Abel - I used the paddle and added small large coin sized chunks of biga gradually to a slurry made of two-thirds of the final water and flour. It was mixed for about 20 minutes whilst slowly adding the chunks of biga and small amounts of the hold-back water at a time, then the salt was added and gave it a further 8 minutes or so. I stopped with the mixer when the dough kept on climbing over the top of the paddle, even though there were still a few small bits of the biga in the final dough that weren't incorporated fully. Temperature after mixing was 23°C.
Although I was concerned about the small bits of biga that made it through into the dough, it wasn't a problem for the final bread which had no lumps.
The bread had one coil fold during the 1 hour spent in a warm proofer (28°C), then was split and pre-shaped and rested on the counter at room temp for 30 minutes, after final shaping and transfer to bannetons it was again kept at 28°C for 1hr 15m before directly baking. The dough handled very nicely, it felt a little loose but was easy to shape and score.
As others have said, oven spring was amazing. And I love it when a loaf crackles after coming out of the oven, as these did.
The final flavour was lovely, subtle, much sweeter than sourdough and the salt came through well when eating. Lovely crispy crust. The crumb was more open than I have had with my previous biga bakes made with sourdough.
What a lovely bread, all in all. I am curious to one day try with lievito madre to see if I can copy what Lance did in that regard, but I'm even more curious if it is possible to get a nice flavour using a raisin yeast water. And the IDY one is just such a winner already that all that seems unnecessary.
Comments
What super-fantastic breads! Big congrats!
Rob
Thanks, Rob and appreciate the possible John Lennon reference
🎯 instant karma v. instant yeast
He might be chatting to us here if he was alive today...
"We just talked about something so ordinary': Paul McCartney reveals he spoke about baking bread in his last conversation with John Lennon
Paul McCartney has revealed he spoke about baking bread in his last conversation with John Lennon before his death in 1980.
The former Beatles singer, 79, said he bonded with his bandmate over their love of the activity following a shortage in the 1970s in England.
He told Howard Stern on Sirius XM: 'I was baking bread and got quite good at it. So when I heard John was doing it, it was great. We could just talk about something so ordinary."
brilliant!
Thanks for the refs! We listen to the Beatles just about every day here.
Amazing crust and crumb, and love the sesame seeds!
Thanks Lin, and I've been enjoying also seeing whatever you do on the outside of your loaves to get that rustic twisty effect, was meaning to ask if you did anything special?
It's really because I'm awful and inconsistent at shaping. But perhaps I shall remain so ;)
Those are great looking loaves Jon. And a great write up with all the details of your method which is great to know and also to see the innovations you have made along the way.
Don't worry about the mixing of the biga being too minimalist. I'm pretty sure even the non mixed floury parts are also active by just absorbing some of the diluted starter/yeast in the water. I want to try that hypothesis out one day and see if it's true.
How did this compare to the SD biga bake? Or direct CY bake?
Many thanks, and all good questions Rene.
I have tried a 90% biga bread made with 24 hour sourdough, and compared to this one that dough was much harder to handle. It wasn't a fair comparison though as I wasn't using strong flour like I was here (and obviously this one was with instant yeast so less need to worry about acid proteolysis). My thinking then is that with a SD version of 90% biga it is necessary to think about that, and either ferment less and at colder temps or consider lievito madre as some people were suggesting in the biga post.
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