Altamura Style Bread Revisited
Some time ago, I attempted many times to follow Franko in making a high percentage durum loaf with low hydration and shaped by a simple fold - in fact an Altamura style bread. I was never altogether satisfied with my progress, and finally set it aside and focused on other baking. While I stopped trying to make an Altamura style loaf, that doesn't mean I stopped baking with durum - in fact my regular rotation (that sounds more formal than it is) includes medium percentage durum loaves like Hamelman's Semolina (p. 171 of Bread) and Sylvia's pugliese. I think this regular baking has made me more comfortable with durum, and I stopped looking at it as a crazed and evil beast that required a lot of fuss and nonsense to get right. That more relaxed attitude led me to throw together a loaf that I realized just in time for shaping had many of the characteristics of the Altamura style bread that I had tried so hard to master. So I folded and proofed and baked and voila, the best Altamura style loaf that I've yet managed to produce. There's a lesson in here somewhere but I'm not entirely sure what it is.
I used an entirely passive method of dough development. First I fed my regular starter with durum flour and water, and immediately refrigerated it for around 20 hours. Then I mixed all ingredients until dough formed a shaggy mass for a couple minutes only, and then refrigerated for 24 hours. Then I let warm on counter for around four hours, then pressed out slightly (hardly at all) folded over and proofed for around 50 minutes, then baked for 20 minutes with steam and 35 minutes without at 400F. I had no idea when I cut into it what to expect, but here's what I got:
Altogether a happy result from a casual approach mostly forced by time constraints. And yes it's tasty - the good taste of durum shines through.
Formula:
5/11/2012 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Seed hydration | 66% |
|
|
|
|
KAAP | 95% |
|
|
|
|
Whole Rye | 5% |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 5:00 PM |
|
|
|
Seed | 100 |
|
|
|
|
KAAP | 57 |
|
| 57 | 36% |
Whole Rye | 3 |
|
| 3 | 2% |
Durum | 0 | 100 |
| 100 | 62% |
Water | 40 | 66 |
| 106 | 66% |
|
|
|
| 266 | 2.7 |
5/12/2012 |
|
|
|
|
|
| Final | Starter | Total | Percent |
|
KAAP |
| 57 | 57 | 9% |
|
Whole Rye |
| 3 | 3 | 0% |
|
Durum | 500 | 99 | 599 | 91% |
|
Water | 330 | 105 | 435 | 66% |
|
Salt | 12 |
| 12 | 1.8% |
|
Starter | 263 |
|
| 24% |
|
|
|
| 1105 | 168% |
|
Starter factor | 1.0 |
|
|
|
|
Comments
Just tossed it off, eh? Funny how that works ... sometimes.
David
Hey David, I guess there was some logic to it. I was thinking about mwilson's comments about passive dough development, but you don't want a high percentage durum dough sitting out at room temperature for too long. And then there's Josh's approach to sourdough where you refrigerate right after mixing. And not much time to fuss over bread over the last few weeks. So I guess that's what went into it. Thanks so much for your comments. -Varda
Wonderful loaf, Varda! Great crust colour and I particularly like the yellow tint of the crumb. It looks delicious. I'm always fascinated by the brave bakers who follow their intuition and gut-feeling when it comes to developing dough, winging things on the fly and still end up with great bread. That's when you really master the craft, and your results speak for themselves, Varda!
Hansjoakim, I have quietly been trying to do some of your loaves for some time now, and never success, so I guess I have a way to go. Thanks so much for your comments. -Varda
Really nice looking loaf Varda!. I was just looking at your previous Altamura posting yesterday, having stumbled into Golden Temple Atta Flour at an international food store yesterday, wondering what had been posted here about its use. Sure enough, there was your report. I assume your didn't use Golden Temple here, since this one is so delightfully yellow.
Nice bake!
Tom
Hi Tom, No I didn't use golden temple here. I have been ordering durum flour from King Arthur - expensive but so good. I wish I had another source for fancy durum, but until then... Thanks so much for commenting. -Varda
I think you must have tapped into a little baking Zen...or something Varda, the loaf looks terrific and the crumb is outstanding! Moving on from a problem I often find is a good strategy for eventually solving it, besides this is supposed to be fun, not aggravating. Nice baking!
Franko
Franko, Definitely the baking Zen kicked in. I guess the problem with banging your head against the wall is you get too much blood in the dough ;-) Thanks for your comments. -Varda
Looks great Varda ... crumb is a lovely colour. Go with the flow eh?
Cheers,
Phil
Phil, I guess that's it. Or just let the brain put everything together without getting in the way. Thanks so much for your comments. -Varda
I just love what you did with your Durum flour...made it work for you beautifully! Nice priests hat shaping, lovely crumb and the flavor sounds so delicious. Oh yes, the great color crust and crumb! You have 'whipped up' a lovely loaf..looks like a keeper.
Sylvia
This should be the easiest shaping ever, as all you have to do is fold the dough over, but I've never gotten it to work before. I have no idea why it did this time. I will have to make this again. I had taken one slice to photograph the crumb - then my kids stopped by for Mother's Day and suddenly it was gone. I'm glad I got the photo. Thanks so much for your comments. -Varda
off like and old hat but it sure looks like a keeper. Nice color, crumb and crust. Happy Mothers Day Varda.
DA, I appreciate your comments. I see you have been doing some interestinig stuff lately. -Varda
inspire me and I have to admit a semolina something in the fridge autolying away for 24 hours - it will have seeds and sprouts I'm guessing. I'm back to 3 day bakes again it seems.
Lovely loaf Varda! Hope the kids stayed long enough to wash the dishes for you too :-)
Happy Mother's Day!
Janet
Hi Janet, Hope you had a good Mother's Day too. Thanks so much for your comments. -Varda
Thanks for a very interesting and full of information post! Your bread is a sheer visual pleasure, Varda!
and hope your baking is going well. -Varda
Varda, I give my first shot at 100% durum bread today. I wanted to try it a long time ago, but your older posts kind of scared me. Yesterday night I read a simple formula on panis nostrum (from Sicilia) and decided to make right away. I made two batards at 76% hydration, with 100% durum starter, no comercial yeast. The dough was wonderful to work with, I'm waiting to proof while I write this. I'll be very happy if the crumb will be similar to yours, which is very atractive and pretty. I'm glad for you, you could move on to another project now. :)
codruta
Hope your bread comes out well. Sorry I scared you. I just needed to learn more and that was how I did it I guess. I appreciate your comments. And there's always another project isn't there. -Varda
Your bread is indeed great, with a delicious yellow crumb.Maybe I should take it easier with durum judging from your result.
Your shaping is much more like that of pane di Matera (40 km from Altamura).
Hi Nico, You could try this. The seed starter I used was left over from baking the day before, so was in great shape which is why I used a lot, and only fed it once, and trusted it to mature in the refrigerator. So you might have to adjust based on the state of your starter. But I am very encouraged with the strategy of a long ferment in the refrigerator for high % durum, as it seems to solve some persistent problems I have had with it. Now I have to do a search on pane di Matera. Thanks so much for commenting. -Varda
especially since semolina is a favorite of mine. :)
I love durum too. It's a great source of variety for breads, no matter how you make it. -Varda
Varda now that i 150% trust your recipes and methods, and now that i just received premium quality durum flour that i had used in the past, i will defintely give this bread a go. I like the color of the crumb. I'm thinking how it would look and taste like if sesame and black sesame is added to it....hmmm
Excellent work Varda...as usual.
Izzat
that you have the flour, Izzat. I hope you get a good result. Thanks for commenting. -Varda
Golden deliciousness! I love baking with durum, too, so happy to see your loaves :)
flourchild. -Varda
Congratulations, Varda. Sometimes casual works. It's as if you reached another state of mind with this bread. The loaf looks great and your photos are getting better all the time. Nice work.
I was kind of worried about that first shot since half of it is "missing" so I'm glad you think the photos are good. "...another state of mind..." Yes indeed - the state of mind past geekiness which is necessary as well, with no Grandma to show me how it's done. -Varda
Great baking Varda. Lovely crumb colour and structure.
All the best,
Syd :)
I was happy with how it came out. -Varda
Hello Varda,
Your loaf - the gorgeous orange color of the crust, and the beautiful yellow crumb...reminds me of this :^)
I love how your Altamura bread turned out!
:^) breadsong
that those are the natural colors of the durum, but so it is. Lovely flower. Thanks so much for your comments. -Varda
Great pics and tale, Varda! And the results of your intuiting look - and I imagine tasted - pretty gosh-durned goood.
Like many, I suspect, I've developed a process in SD bread making that has become routine and comfortable over the years. It's nice to be in a rhythm, but there is always that lurking danger of complacency. Hence, lately I've been drawn to processes that deviate from my usual, such as David's and Syd's versions of SF SD. Your Altamura-style durum post is opportune, given my current mode of experimentation. Thanks!
Cheers
Ross
Hi Ross, It's always a good idea to mix it up. My family will totally ignore beautiful loaves if I've made the same thing too often. Doesn't matter how good it is. Good luck with your efforts, and thanks for commenting. -Varda
Beautiful, Varda!
You seem to be getting well accustomed to baking with durum flour. You did a fine job, given your time constrains! The crust looks very attractive, and the crumb is spot on. Very nice!!
Thanks so much Khalid. It was nice to finally get a decent durum loaf. -Varda
Hello Varda,
Great colour in both te crust and crumb of your bread. I'll be joining you reading up about Pane di Matera too!
All good wishes
Andy
for proper research. Thanks so much for your comments Andy, and hope all is going well. -Varda