Christmas Baking 2011
Finally I find time to post. It's been a busy festive season, with a mamoth baking session on Boxing Day, and a smaller one today. To the detail, beginning with pre-ferments for the initial large bake.
RYE SOUR DOUGH
Stock Sour 288g [D. Rye Flour 108; Water 180] Saturday 18:00
1. Rye Sourdough 288
D. Rye Flour 292 [+ 108 = 400 TOTAL]
Water 220 [+ 180 = 400 TOTAL]
TOTAL 800 mixed Sunday 10:00
2. Rye Sourdough 800
D. Rye Flour 330 [+ 400 = 730 TOTAL]
Water 330 [+ 400 = 730 TOTAL]
TOTAL 1460g mixed Sunday 20:00
“SCALD”, or “ZAVARKHA”
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 300 |
Red Malted Barley Powder | 100 |
Boiling Water | 700 |
TOTAL | 1100 |
PÂTE FERMENTÉE
Wholemeal Bread Flour 500
Salt 10
Butter 10
Fresh Yeast 10
Water 340
TOTAL 870g
mixed Sunday 19:00, fermented 1 hour, then retarded overnight
WHEAT LEVAIN
1.Stock Levain 216 [Bread Flour 135; Water 81] Saturday 18:00
Bread Flour 300 [+ 135 = 435 TOTAL]
Water 180 [+ 81 = 261 TOTAL]
TOTAL 696 mixed Sunday 10:00
2.Levain 696
Bread Flour 600 [+ 435 = 1035 TOTAL]
Water 360 [+ 261 = 621 TOTAL]
TOTAL 1656 mixed Sunday 14:00
FLAX SEED SOAKER
Flax Seed Blond 200
Cold Water 600
TOTAL 800 mixed Sunday 10:00
“POOLISH”
Bread Flour 840g
Fresh Yeast 003g
Water 840g
TOTAL 1683g [use 561g for Croissant Dough and 1122g for Bloomers]
mix Sunday 20:00
BIGA
Bread Flour 400
Water 240
Fresh Yeast 002
TOTAL 642g mixed Sunday 19:30
The first six of these were all made on Monday 26th December using a combination of both wood-fired brick oven and electric oven to complete the baking. A Christmas Marathon, totalling 25 loaves, plus a range of laminated pastries! Sorry, there are no photographs from this bake; I was just too busy trying to cope with the hectic schedule preparing for family visiting etc.
1. Sourdough Seed Bread with Wheat Levain, Wholemeal Flour, Roasted Seeds and a Cold Flax Seed Soaker
For the levain build and cold soaker, see above.
Material/Stage | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
1a. Wheat Levain |
|
|
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 25 | 1000 |
Water | 15 | 600 |
TOTAL | 40 | 1600 |
|
|
|
1b. Cold Soaker |
|
|
Flax Seed Blond | 5 | 200 |
Water | 15 | 600 |
TOTAL | 20 | 800 |
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|
|
1c. Roasted Seeds |
|
|
Pumpkin Seeds | 5 | 200 |
Sunflower Seeds | 5 | 200 |
Pumpkin, Sunflower, Hemp, Flax, Sesame | 1.5 | 60 |
Japanese Organic Tamari Soy Sauce | To Taste |
|
TOTAL | 11.5 | 460 |
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|
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2. Final Dough |
|
|
Wheat Levain [from 1a] | 40 | 1600 |
Cold Soaker [from 1b] | 20 | 800 |
Roasted Seeds [from 1c] | 11.5 | 460 |
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 35 | 1400 |
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal | 40 | 1600 |
Salt | 1.8 | 72 |
Water | 48 | 1920 |
TOTAL | 196.3 | 7852 |
|
|
|
% pre-fermented flour | 25 | - |
% overall hydration | 78 | 68.67flour+seeds |
% wholegrain flour | 40 | - |
% of seeds on flour | 16.5 | - |
FACTOR | 40 | - |
Method:
- Build the levain as above, and prepare the cold soaker.
- Roast the Seeds under the grill with tamari to taste; turn as needed. Cool.
- Prepare an autolyse with both flours plus water for the final dough. Leave 1 hour to stand.
- Add the salt, leaven and soaker and mix on first speed for 5 minutes, scraping down as needed, and adjusting the hydration if necessary. Mix for 3 minutes on second speed, then scrape down and check development. Add the roasted seeds and mix on first speed until cleared.
- Retard the dough overnight.
- Bulk proof for 1 hour to return the dough to 26°C.
- Scale and divide. Mould each dough piece round, and rest whilst preparing bannetons. I made 9 various sized boules from this dough.
- Re-mould, then prove upside down in bannetons for 3 hours
- Turn each loaf onto a peel, score the top, then set to bake in the wood-fired oven.
- Cool on wires.
2. 100% Wholemeal Panned Breads made with Pâte Fermentée
For the Pâte Fermentée schedule, see above
Material/Stage | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
1. Pâte Fermentée |
|
|
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal | 25 | 500 |
Salt | 0.5 | 10 |
Butter | 0.5 | 10 |
Fresh Yeast | 0.5 | 10 |
Water | 17 | 340 |
TOTAL | 43.5 | 870 |
|
|
|
2. Final Dough |
|
|
Pâte Fermentée [from 1] | 43.5 | 870 |
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal | 75 | 1500 |
Salt | 1.3 | 26 |
Butter | 1.3 | 26 |
Fresh Yeast | 2 | 40 |
Water | 55 | 1100 |
TOTAL | 178.1 | 3562 |
|
|
|
% overall pre-fermented flour | 25 | - |
% overall hydration | 72 | - |
% wholegrain flour | 100 | - |
FACTOR | 20 | - |
Method:
- As described above, for the Pâte Fermentée, combine all the ingredients in a mixer, and mix on first speed for 5 minutes, scraping down as needed. Mix a further 2 – 4 minutes on second speed. Bulk ferment for 2 hours, then retard overnight.
- To mix the final dough, firstly autolyse flour and water for 1 hour. Then add the Pâte Fermentée and the other ingredients and mix for 2 minutes on first speed. Scrape down and mix for 7 minutes on second speed. DDT 28°C
- Bulk ferment 40 – 50 minutes at 28°C
- Scale, divide and mould round. Rest covered for 10 - 15 minutes and prepare bread pans. Shape dough pieces and place into pans. I made 3 different-sized panned loaves, plus 1 bloomer.
- Final proof 2 hours at 28°C.
- Bake in the wood-fired oven.
- Cool on wires.
3. Bloomers made with a “Poolish” and Rye Sourdough
For the schedules for both the “Poolish” and the Rye Sourdough, see above.
Material/Stage | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
1a. Rye Sourdough |
|
|
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 5 | 100 |
Water | 5 | 100 |
TOTAL | 10 | 200 |
|
|
|
1b. “Poolish” |
|
|
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 28 | 560 |
Water | 28 | 560 |
Fresh Yeast | 0.1 | 2 |
TOTAL | 56.1 | 1122 |
|
|
|
2. Final Dough |
|
|
Rye Sourdough [from 1a] | 10 | 200 |
“Poolish” [from 1b] | 56.1 | 1122 |
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 67 | 1340 |
Salt | 1.8 | 36 |
Fresh Yeast | 2.5 | 50 |
Water | 30 | 600 |
TOTAL | 167.4 | 3348 |
|
|
|
% pre-fermented flour | 33 | - |
% overall hydration | 63 | - |
% wholegrain flour | 5 | - |
FACTOR | 20 | - |
Method:
- Build levain and “poolish” as above.
- Combine both pre-ferments with all the other ingredients for the final dough in a mixer. Mix with the hook attachment on first speed for 3 minutes, scraping down as needed and making any necessary adjustment to hydration. Mix a further 4 – 5 minutes on second speed to develop. DDT 26°C.
- Bulk proof 50 minutes @ 26°C.
- Scale and divide and mould round. Rest covered and prepare baking sheets. Shape for bloomers and tray up. I made 3 large bloomers.
- Final proof @ 28°C for 2 hours.
- Cut the tops of the loaves with 3 diagonal slashes, spray with water, and bake on the sole of the wood-fired oven.
- Cool on wires.
4. Ciabatta with a “Biga”
For the “Biga”, see schedule above
Material/Stage | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
1. “Biga” |
|
|
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 40 | 400 |
Fresh Yeast | 0.2 | 2 |
Water | 24 | 240 |
TOTAL | 64.2 | 642 |
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|
|
2a. Final Dough – “Bassinage” |
|
|
“Biga” [from 1] | 64.2 | 642 |
Gilchesters’ Organic Ciabatta/Pizza Flour | 60 | 600 |
Salt | 1.8 | 18 |
Fresh Yeast | 2 | 20 |
Water | 44 | 440 |
TOTAL | 172 | 1720 |
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|
|
2b. Final Dough – Wet Stage |
|
|
Final Dough – “Bassinage” | 172 | 1720 |
Water | 12 – 17 | 120 – 170 |
TOTAL | 184 - 189 | 1840 - 1890 |
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|
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% pre-fermented flour | 40 | - |
% overall hydration | 80 – 85 | - |
FACTOR | 10 | - |
Method:
- Prepare the biga as above.
- For the bassinage, add all ingredients to the mixer, attach a dough hook and mix on first speed for 3 minutes, scraping down as needed. Mix a further 3 minutes on second speed. For the final stage, change to a paddle beater and let the down down to required wet consistency on first and second speeds. Scrape down as needed. Final DDT 26°C
- Line a container with some olive oil, and pour the wet dough into the container. Cover and hold at 26°C for 2 hours, using stretch and fold after a ½, 1 and 1½ hours.
- Move to the “dry” stage and scale and divide dough pieces using a combination of Gilchesters’ flour and Coarse Semolina. I made 6 ciabatta breads.
- Final proof for up to 1 hour.
- Bake on the sole of a hot wood-fired oven.
- Cool on wires.
5. “Rossisky” using the Auerman Method
See above for Rye Sourdough Build
Material/Stage | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
1a. Rye Sourdough |
|
|
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 30 | 600 |
Water | 30 | 600 |
TOTAL | 60 | 1200 |
|
|
|
1b. “Scald” |
|
|
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 15 | 300 |
Red Malted Barley Powder | 5 | 100 |
Boiling Water | 35 | 700 |
TOTAL | 55 | 1100 |
|
|
|
2. “Sponge” |
|
|
Rye Sourdough [from 1a.] | 60 | 1200 |
“Scald” [from 1b.] | 55 | 1100 |
TOTAL | 115 | 2300 |
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|
|
3. Final Paste |
|
|
“Sponge” [from 2] | 115 | 2300 |
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye –finely sifted | 30 | 600 |
Gilchesters’ Organic Pizza/Ciabatta Flour | 20 | 400 |
Water | 20 | 400 |
Salt | 1.5 | 30 |
TOTAL | 186.5 | 3730 |
|
|
|
% pre-fermented flour | 30 + 20 = 50 | - |
% overall hydration | 85 | - |
FACTOR | 20 | - |
Method:
- Build the sour as described, make the Scald, then combine the 2 to make the Sponge. Ferment this for 4 hours.
- I sifted through the Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye flour, reserving the fine flour to use here Add the Gilchesters’ Pizza flour to this, plus the water and autolyse for 1 hour. Add the salt and the sponge to the autolyse in a mixer, and combine with the paddle beater to form a paste.
- Bulk proof for 1 hour.
- Line a Pullman Pan and other bread pans neatly with silicone paper and scale the paste into the pans, neatening off carefully. Attach lids.
- Final Proof 3 hours. Bake overnight in the “dead” wood-fired oven. Sadly, these did not work, as the oven was just too dead, so the loaves did not bake out. I made a half batch again today and scaled the whole mixture into one large Pullman Pan.
6.Croissant Dough with a “Poolish” [See the “Poolish” schedule above]
Material/Stage | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
1. “Poolish” |
|
|
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 28 | 280 |
Fresh Yeast | 0.1 | 1 |
Water | 28 | 280 |
TOTAL | 56.1 | 561 |
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|
|
2. “Détrempe” |
|
|
“Poolish” [from 1] | 56.1 | 561 |
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 72 | 720 |
Chilled Water | 32 | 320 |
Salt | 1.2 | 12 |
Milk Powder | 5 | 50 |
Fresh Yeast | 5 | 50 |
Caster Sugar | 8 | 80 |
TOTAL | 179.3 | 1793 |
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|
|
3. Lamination |
|
|
Détrempe [from 2] | 179.3 | 1793 |
Organic Slightly Salted Butter | 41.6 | 416 |
TOTAL | 220.9 | 2209 |
|
|
|
% pre-fermented flour | 28 | - |
% hydration | 60 | - |
% fat on flour | 41.6 | - |
FACTOR | 10 | - |
Method:
- Mix the “poolish” as above, and leave to ferment overnight. Chill both the flour and water for the final dough in the fridge overnight.
- Combine all the ingredients for the final dough in the mixer. Attach a dough hook and mix on first speed for 4 minutes, scraping down and adjusting the hydration as necessary. Develop the dough on second speed for 3 minutes.
- Retard the dough for 1 hour.
- Incorporate the laminating fat using the English method. Retard 1 hour.
- Give 4 half turns to the dough with 1 hour rest between each turn, in the chiller.
- Process as required. I used the pastry dough to make a Chestnut loaf for Christmas Dinner with my family, plus a selection of croissants, pains au chocolat. I made “Palmiers” with the scrap dough.
- Prove finished pieces for 45 minutes and bake in the electric oven using a convection setting at 210°C.
- Cool on wires.
7. Bloomers made with a “Poolish” and Rye Sourdough and Wholemeal
For the schedules for both the “Poolish” and the Rye Sourdough, see above.
Material/Stage | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
1a. Rye Sourdough |
|
|
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 5 | 130 |
Water | 5 | 130 |
TOTAL | 10 | 260 |
|
|
|
1b. “Poolish” |
|
|
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 28 | 728 |
Water | 28 | 728 |
Fresh Yeast | 0.1 | 2.6 |
TOTAL | 56.1 | 1458.6 |
|
|
|
2. Final Dough |
|
|
Rye Sourdough [from 1a] | 10 | 260 |
“Poolish” [from 1b] | 56.1 | 1458.6 |
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 22 | 572 |
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal | 45 | 1170 |
Salt | 1.8 | 46.8 |
Fresh Yeast | 2.55 | 65 |
Water | 34.05 | 885.3 |
TOTAL | 167.4 | 4457.7 |
|
|
|
% pre-fermented flour | 33 | - |
% overall hydration | 67.05 | - |
% wholegrain flour | 50 | - |
FACTOR | 26 | - |
Method:
- Build levain and “poolish” as above.
- Combine both pre-ferments with all the other ingredients for the final dough in a mixer. Mix with the hook attachment on first speed for 3 minutes, scraping down as needed and making any necessary adjustment to hydration. Mix a further 4 – 5 minutes on second speed to develop. DDT 26°C.
- Bulk proof 50 minutes @ 26°C.
- Scale and divide and mould round. Rest covered and prepare baking sheets. Shape for bloomers and tray up.
- Final proof @ 28°C for 2 hours.
- Cut the tops of the loaves with 3 diagonal slashes, spray with water, and bake on the sole of the wood-fired oven.
- Cool on wires.
Photos from today’s baking shown below:
A Very Happy New Year to you all!
Andy
Comments
to you, too, Andy! Your breads are always an inspiration.
Karin
and a very Happy New Year to you too, Karin
All good wishes
Andy
Andy,
Lovely breads and the crust colors in your photos is soooo inviting - you captured what I will call very warm tones that remind me of sunlight....indeed the sunlight that the grains in your loaves captured while growing in their fields and now they have delivered that sunlight into your home where to nourish you :-)
Take Care,
Janet
Hi Janet,
What a lovely thing to write; thank you so much.
It started raining here just after I'd baked these loaves, so I had to take photos indoors in our very dark kitchen. So, for a change, I was reasonably happy with these photographs.
My very best wishes for 2012 to you
Andy
Hello and Happy New Year!
Delicious-sounding formulas here Andy, and as Janet notes, beautiful photos of the baked breads.
@ Janet, your description of Andy's breads is lovely and what an inspiring thing to read at this dark time of year (so glad the days are now getting longer)!
:^) from breadsong
Breadsong,
What I said about the beautiful color of Andy's loaves was a spin on something I read that Buckminster Fuller once told a child about wood burning in a fireplace. He description was one I hope I never forget and went along the lines of how a tree when, it is growing, is capturing the energy from the sun and storing it in it's trunk and limbs and that what you get later when you are burning wood for heat is that very same energy being released or 'unwinding' and providing it's heat in your fireplace. How true that energy simply changes form.....can't get rid of it....like the energy stored in a grain of wheat - transformed into bread, transformed into energy for those who eat it....and on it goes - the cycle of life drawing it's energy from the sun.
So I can't take credit for the words....same concept, different vehicle :-)
Janet
Hello Breadsong,
Thank you for your kind words. There was certainly plenty of wood burnt here over the Festive period!
You should take more credit Janet; it was a lovely thing to write
Best wishes
Andy
That is really lovely Janet.
I have been reading Kevin McCloud's 43 Principles of Home and he has a very similar take on energy. He talks about the disconnection we have from energy and where it comes from. We don't appreciate it. In the past for instance, we had to use our energy to cut wood to burn for cooking and heating ... we knew where the energy came from and we had to respect it or go cold and hungry. Nowadays we flick a switch and it just there. How it gets here or how it is produced is irrelevant so long as the switch works.
Cheers,
Phil
Phil,
I loved his words when I read them too. I use wood to help heat our house in the winter and a friend saw the piece I am referring to and sent it to me. The words ring in my head all the time now. When I look at my wood piles in our back yard I see all of the logs as stored sunlight :-)
I have tried to get my kids involved and am met with great resistance......we have been conditioned to be complacent and to avoid real physical work....their generation even more so, and yes, we are sorely disconnected from the essence of life - especially those of us who dwell in cities and suburbs.
Burning wood, baking bread and lots of walking help keep me grounded. :-)
Janet
Hi Janet/Phil
I think concentrating on this re-connection sums up my NY Resolutions very well.
Fitting them into a business plan will prove even more challenging I guess?
Janet, congratulations on the Borodinsky; really good to read of your success and how much you enjoy the loaf
Best wishes to you both
Andy
Andy,
Fitting them into a business plan will prove even more challenging I guess?
I am thinking if you can find your niche it can be done....I have a car mechanic who does this perfectly.....rare now-a-days but a testament of sorts that it can be done....a passion followed with sound business plan - not to be swayed by popular fads....ie - he operates out of a very small and old 4 car garage - old plastic furniture in his small waiting room....only thing new in the place are the parts he orders to repair the cars.....His business flurishes but you have to get on a waiting list for anything major....ie he isn't in it for the money. HIs 2 sons are his only employees and his wife sometimes answers the phone on busy days. He always has time to chat...has never fixed something that doesn't need to be fixed....he lives within his means so he doesn't need to gouge clients to pay for his over extending himself.....rare individual indeed.
Take Care,
Janet
Thanks Janet,
I picked up your comment on the Celebrating Rye Breads post; thanks for posting there.
Do you ever take photos of your breads, by the way? Just wondering..
Very best wishes
Andy
Andy,
I did photos a few times when I first joined TFL but found it very stressful so I stopped and my nerves let out a huge sigh of relief :-)
Janet
Happy New Year Andy!
I can certainly relate to your situation of not having time to post, it's been a busy few weeks for myself as well. All your loaves have such a nice even colour to them, very eye catching. It looks like you and the WFO are getting along very well indeed. I was hoping to see your croissants somewhere in the photos, especially the Palmiers as I've never seen them made with croissant dough. Do you sugar them in the same way you would ones made from puff pastry? Any info or photos you could pass along would be greatly appreciated as I'd like to try it out next time I make a croissant dough. Great post as always.
All the very best for the coming year Andy,
Franko
Hi Franko,
I've actually been struggling again with getting heat into the oven. It's very hard to maintain sufficient draft underneath the burning wood to really blast a good fire. I'll get there; it often works, so it's more about technique. But it was really windy here on Boxing Day, and that made it quite tough.
Palmiers: I rolled out the scrap dough, brushed it with water, sprinkled generously with Caster Sugar, then did a bookfold. Then I cut small sections off this and laid them on to silicone sheets on baking trays. A bit of eggwash and a short rest, then baked in a hot oven for around 10 minutes. No photos, sorry. I did them as little apetisers to have with coffee when the famil came, so I was flat out busy preparing a full roast dinner and pud.
As ever, thank you for your generous comments.
I hope you've had a restful holiday Franko, and wish you the very best for 2012
Andy
Hi Andy it looks as though your christmas bake was a gift to us all, agreat bake of some very nice breads and written up so very well too. All the best to you and Alison and look forward to meeting you sometime this year
kindest regards Derek
And to you too Derek!
I have to say it was quite stressful at times trying to bake 6 different batches of doughs with 25 loaves and all the pastries too. That's a lot of work at home, even with a wood-fired oven on the patio.
Yes, I really hope we get a chance to meet up later in the year when you get over to the UK. I look forward to it very much.
Very Best Wishes for 2012
Andy
May your fires always keep things bright!
Happy New Year!
Sylvia
Hi Sylvia,
and I wish you the same with your oven adventures too.
Lovely to hear from you and thank you for your kind comments
Happy New Year!
Andy
What a glorious end to 2011, Andy! Very inspiring work... Poolish, Biga, Levain, Rye sour... Oh my , you have truly been busy! your breads, look delicious..
I hope you enjoy the Holidays!
Hi Khalid,
Yes using lots of different pre-ferments etc was very much part of the plan...and to use baker's yeast and different leavens too.
The holidays have been great; now I'm back to my tasks and needing to focus like never before
I wish you all the best for 2012; thank you very much for your comments
All good wishes
Andy
You have been very busy, as usual, Andy. Excellent baking and your write ups are always so interesting and detailed.
Best wishes for a healthy, happy and prosperous New Year,
Syd
Hi Syd,
I wish you an equally good 2012 as well
All good wishes
Andy
Andy, Fabulous variety of breads. And great detailed posts. But what is a bloomer? -Varda
Hi Varda,
Thank you for your very kind words.
Bloomer is a particular shape of loaf, and it is really popular in UK baking. This Tiger Bread that my student made which I posted a while back is quite a good example, right at the bottom of the post:
http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/21867/boules-made-gilchesters-flours-and-different-preferments
A very Happy New Year to you
All good wishes
Andy
A beautiful display Andy. As Franko said, looks like you are enjoying the WFO.
All the best to you and Alison in the New Year.
Cheers,
Eric
Hi Eric,
Thank you for your generous comments.
My very best wishes to you and your family for 2012
Andy
Sounds like a busy and fulfilling Christmas and new years.
That is a fantastic range of breads with a lot of worthwhile formulas to read through.
Any particular favourites or hits for the family?
Great to see you pushing your oven ... wishing you the best for the new years.
Cheers,
Phil
Hi Phil,
Actually the palmiers, croissants and pain au chocolat probably went down best with all the family.
I was happy with everything generally, given it was a punishing schedule...hence so much reading for you! I think one of the loaves photographed was [front bloomer] just about the pick of the bunch.
Take good care, and all good wishes for 2012
Andy
Looks like you were really busy for Christmas. Lovely loaves.
Wishing you a very happy new year.
Hi lumos,
lovely to hear from you and thank you for your generous words.
A very Happy New Year to you too
Best wishes
Andy