Shoyu-Roasted Seed Bread; Pain de Campagne; Ciabatta; Rossisky, Panned Wholewheat Bread

Shoyu-Roasted Seed Bread; Pain de Campagne; Ciabatta; Rossisky, Panned Wholewheat Bread

This baking session took place over 3 days, beginning on Saturday at the start of the weekend, ending Monday afternoon.

I didn’t have any wood prepared, so the breads were baked in my SMEG electric oven.   I mixed the doughs on Saturday evening and retarded overnight, then baked off throughout Sunday.   The hunt for wood is now complete; I am ready to collect tomorrow!

I used both rye sourdough and wheat levain in each dough.   Each culture was given 3 refreshments from Friday night through to Saturday evening, each beginning with 40g stock.   I ended up with 900g of wheat levain and 600g of rye sour.

Formulae, recipes and methods shown below:

1. 1.    Shoyu-Roasted Seed Bread

Method:

• Weigh all the seeds into a roasting dish, mix through by hand, sprinkle over with shoyu, and roast under the grill until well-browned.   Turn the seeds in order to prevent burning.   Set to one side.
• Weigh the rye sourdough, white and wholewheat flour and the water into the mixing bowl.   Attach the dough hook and mix 3 minutes on first speed to combine.   Cover and autolyse for 1 hour.
• Add the salt and wheat levain and mix for 2 minutes on first speed.   Scrape down and mix a further 2 minutes on second speed.   Add the seeds and mix for 5 minutes on second speed until the dough is developed to pass the window pane test.
• Retard the dough overnight in the chiller.
• Bulk proof for 1 hour, then stretch and fold.   Rest 15 minutes.
• Scale and divide: I made 2 loaves in bannetons @ 500g and 1 @ 709g and four pieces @ 337g for a panned loaf in a Pullman Pan.   Mould all the dough pieces round and rest, covered, for 20 minutes.
• Re-mould the loaves for bannetons, brush tops and sides with water, and dip in a mixture of all four seed types.   Place upside down in prepared bannetons.   Shape each piece, repeat method for dipping in seeds and place sideways on in the Pullman pan.   Set to prove.
• Proof for 3 hours, covered.
• Bake the hearth loaves with steam in a pre-heated oven [280°C for one hour] at 235°C for 10 minutes.   Switch over to the convection setting, and bake at 210°C [30 minutes for the large loaf and 20 for the smaller ones.]   Load the Pullman Pan at 250°C with generous steam.   Drop the heat to 200°C and bake out for 1 hour.   De-pan.
• Cool all the breads on wires.

1. 2.    Pain de Campagne

Firstly, apolgies for using 2 decimal places for the % in the formula.   It just took me a while to get it to balance.   Using a factor of 13.1 really did not help!

 Sadly, no French flour in the formula, but we tasted this bread for lunch, just 3 hours after baking, and it tasted so good.   The new electric oven gives such a great crust!   The photographs demonstrate very good crumb quality too.

Method:

• Weight the water, rye sourdough and the flours into the mixing bowl.   Use a hook attachment and mix on first speed for 3 minutes.   Cover and autolyse for 1 hour.
• Add the levain and salt and mix two minutes on first speed and 7 minutes on second speed, scraping down the bowl as necessary.   The dough will pass the window pane test.
• Retard the dough overnight in the chiller.
• Bulk proof for one hour the stretch and fold.   Rest 15 minutes.
• Scale and divide: I made one loaf @ 950g and one @ 1284g.   Mould round and rest 15 minutes.   Re-mould and place upside down in prepared bannetons.
• Final proof for 3 hours.
• Pre-heat the oven to 280°C.   Tip out each loaf, score the top of the loaf and set on the baking stone.   Apply steam.   Bake at 235°C for 15 minutes.   Turn the heat down to 210°C, move to convection setting and bake out a further 30 minutes for smaller loaf and 45 minutes for the larger one.
• Cool on wires.

Leaven and sour had been rebuilt over the course of Saturday and Sunday ready for more dough to be mixed Sunday evening for baking off on Monday.   I made the following:

1. 3.    “Wholemeal” Panned and Boule Loaves

Made with a white wheat levain at 25%, and the remaining 75% of the flour is wholemeal, added to the final dough.

Method:

• Combine the water and flour in the mixing bowl, and mix on first speed using the hook attachment for 3 minutes.   Autolyse for one hour.
• Add the levain and salt, mix for 2 minutes on first speed and 7 minutes on second speed until developed.   Scrape down as required.   The dough should pass the window pane test.
• Retard overnight in the chiller.
• Bulk ferment for one hour with one S&F.
• Scale and divide: 4 x 390g pieces for a “four-pieced” Sandwich loaf in the Pullman Pan, plus the remainder made as a “Boule” in a round brötform.
• Mould round, then rest 20 minutes.   Shape and place dough pieces in tin/brötform.
• Final proof 3 hours.
• Bake the boule in a pre-heated oven with steam, at 250°C no fan, for 10 minutes.   Switch to convection and bake at 235°C for 20 minutes, then drop to 210°C and bake out a further 15 minutes.   For the Sandwich loaf, load the oven pre-heated to 220°C, use steam, and bake for 1 hour with the lid on.
• Cool both loaves on wires.

1. 4.    Ciabatta

Method:

• Combine levain, sourdough, flour, salt and water for 2a in the mixing bowl. Attach the hook and mix for 2 minutes on first speed and 5 minutes on second speed.   Scrape down as needed.   Add the remaining water, attach a paddle beater instead of the hook.   Mix 1 minute on first speed, then 3 minutes on second speed to let down the dough.   Retard overnight in the chiller.
• Give 3 stretch and folds to the dough and bulk proof 1 hour.
• Scale and divide 4 pieces just short of 290g.   Gently shape into the “slipper” shape, and set to proof using a heavy linen cloth.   Scatter well with Semolina, and create channels for the loaves to prove “en coûche”.   Final proof 2 hours.
• Pre-heat the oven to 280°C for 1 hour.   Set the first 2 loaves onto the bakers stone, apply steam and bake without fan at 250°C for 6 minutes.   Switch to convection and drop the heat to 235°C for 10 minutes.   Finish a further 2 – 3 minutes at 220°C if necessary.   Repeat with the other 2 loaves.
• Cool on wires.

1. 5.    “Rossisky” Russian Rye Bread

Using all rye flour and the 3-stage process.

Method:

• Make the soaker 3 hours ahead of use.   Pour the boiling water onto the flours and salt and stir thoroughly to mix.
• Combine the soaker and sourdough to form the sponge.   Ferment overnight.
• Add the remaining flour to form the final paste.
• Bulk ferment for 1 hour, covered.
• Shape with wet hands and drop carefully into a pre-lined baking pan.
• Proof for 3 hours.
• Bake for 1 hour 15 minutes at 160°C with steam on the convection setting for the oven.
• Cool on wires.

Notes.

• The seed breads are full of flavour; my friendly neighbours across The Square persuaded me to let them buy one of these loaves.   They were back again today having eaten the whole loaf, and back to buy some of the ciabatta.
• The Pain de Campagne has lovely crust and crumb.   The flavour is not over-powering, but deep and complex thanks to using a combination of 2 leavens plus generous amounts of wholegrain flour plus overnight retard.   My ideal “everyday” bread; can be used for any type of eating experience.
• The wholemeal bread was a pleasure to make.   The grist is 75% wholewheat.   The crumb is lovely and soft and light too; ideal for sandwich bread.   Plenty of oven spring evident too!
• The ciabattas have turned out well, as they are genuinely only made with levain, no yeasted Biga in site.   There is high proportion of pre-fermented flour, and the rye component of this makes up nearly 10% of the total flour too!   Additionally, the Gilchester Pizza/Ciabatta flour could hardly be described as “White”.   It is milled beautifully fine, but quite a lot of goodies have evidently been retained when milling.
• No photos of the Rossisky, sorry.   It was last out of the oven, and I lost my chance to get decent photos as the light goes away very quickly round these parts in the depths of autumn.   It ended up a lovely dark colour, with pronounced sweet and sourness; always a highly flavoured bread.
• These loaves [or some of them, anyway], are bound for a “Wine Tasting” evening over at nearby Ingram Hall on 2nd December.   The couple hosting the event do much of the marketing and selling for Doddingtons Cheese, which is made just a few miles up the road from where we live.   I met them at the Powburn Show and they seemed keen to try to forge links for the future.   Time to telephone them and let them know what I have managed to produce.

Best wishes to all, and, Happy Baking!

Andy