Thirded Bread - Buckwheat, Rye, Corn (Maize)
Several days ago I made a loaf of rye-corn bread, following the linked recipe from this post:
https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/73341/rye-and-maize-bread
A month earlier I had tried making an all-buckwheat loaf; see -
https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/73198/almost-abes-100-buckwheat
These two breads seemed to me to be very similar, and one could think of them as following a template. They were both good, and I felt that both were missing something in flavor and texture. Also, the corn grits hadn't softened as much as I hoped in the rye-corn loaf. I don't really like too many hard little bits in my breads, and the hard bits don't contribute to flavor like they ought to.
Today's post is the third try in my evolution of this kind of bread. I think it's been very successful. The changes are the addition of buckwheat flour, pre-cooking part of the corn grits, and scalding part but not all of the buckwheat.
The term "thirded", I have read, is a term from the 19th century and refers to using equal volumes of three grain types. This being the 21st century, I used roughly equal weights instead. Picture of a slice first, then the recipe.
All flours were stone-ground. The biggest bits of bran were sifted out of the buckwheat and rye flours. Part of the corn was partially pre-cooked in the milk used for scalding. The rest was included in the scald. All of the rye and 40% of the buckwheat were also included in the scald. The corn grits were precooked to soften them further and bring out their flavor. When the milk was near boiling, the portion of the grits was stirred in and cooked for about 5 minutes until the milk started to thicken a little. Then the milk with grits was poured over the flours to be scalded. The flours were very thirsty and needed more liquid, so I boiled 300g water and added it in two stages. That seemed enough.
Ingredients
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150g rye all scalded
180g yellow corn grits 100g scalded, 80g pre-cooked in scalding milk
170g sifted buckwheat 70g scalded, 100g unscalded **
370g milk (+ 300g boiling water in two infusions)
1 large egg
10g yeast
11g salt
** Only 40% of the buckwheat flour was scalded because that ratio worked better than 60% in Abe's version of the 100% buckwheat loaf.
Process
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- partially cook grits in milk
- scald all rye, 70g buckwheat, and corn with cooking milk & cooked grits in glass bowl. Add more boiling water if too dry
- when cool, add egg and remaining 100g buckwheat flour
- add water if too dry
- add yeast, salt, and more water if needed to make a mixable dough
- mix/knead to incorporate + 80g more room temp water (if needed)
- bulk ferment until visibly risen (this took 95 minutes)
- move to Pullman pan, preheat oven to 350° F
- proof until visible rise, cracked top, or two hours (this took 75 minutes)
- bake at 350 deg F/ 177C 40 minutes with lid, 55 minutes no lid
The baked loaf was 1/2 inch taller than the previous rye-maize loaf even though both used 500g of flour and were baked in the same Pullman pan. The thirded loaf was also heavier, 1030g vs 880g. This is about equal to the difference in the total weigh of the liquids.
I baked the loaf until the internal temperature reached 204 deg F/95.5C and had been close to that for around 10 minutes. Then I turned the loaf out of the pan.
The flavor is richer and more buckwheaty that the rye/maize bread. It is lighter and more complex than the 100% buckwheat loaf. The crumb is moister than the rye/maize loaf. It's been too long for me to be sure about comparing the moisture with the 100% buckwheat loaf. Because I sifted the buckwheat the flavor and texture seemed cleaner - I had not liked the larger bran bits in the 100% buckwheat bread. They seemed like soggy tasteless flakes that stayed in my mouth for a long time. That feel is not present in this thirded loaf. It's a good improvement.
So do I. Very nice bake. I've done many a buckwheat bread but never corn grits and buckwheat together. Have you thought about using corn flour and toasting the buckwheat? You've got me craving a buckwheat bread now and think i'll plan one over the holidays.
Here is a lovely buckwheat porridge bread recipe. The toasting will add flavour and because it's porridge it'll improve the texture so no need for an additional scald.
Thanks, Abe.
Have you thought about using corn flour and toasting the buckwheat?
I will probably try using masa harina next time. Toasting ... I toasted part of the rye flour for one of my contributions to the community bake we've been having and it seemed to work out well. So maybe, probably. I would sift out the bran first, though.
This combination of buckwheat, rye, and corn seems to be especially tasty. I would guess that nearly any grain combinations could be handled in much the same way, and some of them might be excellent.
That recipe sounds very yummy. I don't have any groats to try it just now. Along those lines, I once made three loaves with a portion of rolled oats (also known as "porridge" oats). With one I added the oats during mixing, with the second I made a soaker of all the oats, and with the third loaf I cooked the oats down into a porridge first. I adjusted the water as best I could.
The porridge version was the best, followed by the soaker, and last (but still good) was the plain dry oats loaf. So toasted buckwheat porridge ought to have good potential, if I can find any groats around here.
Yum!
What an interesting bread. I am out of green (unroasted) buckwheat groats but will order some soon and try something similar. Looks very good!
I haven't used groats before, but Abe likes to. I just found a box of toasted groats (labeled as kasha), and I plan to cook them down into a porridge and include them in a similar bread. Let us know how yours turns out!