The Fresh Loaf

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Olive Polenta Loaf

CrustyJohn's picture
CrustyJohn

Olive Polenta Loaf

I've long wanted to try my hand at an imitation of this excellent loaf I had from one of the best bakeries I've tasted bread from: the, sadly, erstwhile Scratch Bakehouse of Syracuse, NY.  

I recently got an order of grains from Redtail Grains, a neat small-scale organic grain farm in NC that focuses a lot on heirloom varietals.  Among that order was some cateto orange polenta which is supposed to be particularly creamy and well-suited to polenta.  So here was my go:

 

bread flour: 360g (80%)

Sungold Spelt from Redtail Grains: 90g (20%)

leaven: 50g (~10%)

water: 335g (75%)

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salt: 2tsp

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Polenta made with Cateto Orange corn from Redtail Grains: 225g (50%)

Kalamata olives: a handful (maybe a 1/4 cup?), chopped

Process- Pretty much my standard process of late

mix starter + water, stir, add flours.  "Autolyse" 1 hr @ room temp. (probably around 65-70).  Add salt, pinch in.  Stretch and fold over the course of 3 hrs at room temperature (same as above more or less).  Add in the polenta and olives about halfway through stretch and fold period.  Continue bulk fermentation overnight (room temp probably in the mid 60s), about 8 hours in addition to the 3 hrs. of folding.  Shape.  Retard in refrigerator for around 8 hrs.  Bake @ 500 20 min, uncover, 10min, reduce to 450, 30min, let cool in turned-off oven.

Notes:  The dough came together nicely, and the polenta didn't cause it to get too unmanageable during the stretch and fold phase, but as with a few other porridge loaves, it was quite wet and sticky at the end of the BF when time to shape, thus my shaping job was rather loose.  Cornmeal/polenta, even when well cooked, seems to retain a grittiness that seems to hinder the gluten structure more than other cooked grains/porridges.  It also seemed to add a lot of water to the loaf; this was maybe one of the wettest feeling loaves I've baked, and even after the long bake, the crumb was still glistening (fortunately not gummy though).

    The crumb was super soft and the crust very robust, creating a nice contrast.  The polenta flavor added something, though perhaps not as distinct as other porridges.  I think I added too few olives and chopped them too small- their flavor didn't come through much.

 

  Made a grilled cheese with some slices- maybe one of the best grilled cheeses I've ever eaten thanks to that soft rich crumb getting griddled.  

The shape of the loaf was nothing to sing about, but just about all other aspects, especially a nice rich flavor, put this up there with some of my favorite of my creations.  I don't know that it equaled the Scratch Bakeshouse loaf though, but that's a pretty lofty standard to chase.  

Comments

HeiHei29er's picture
HeiHei29er

Looks and sounds great!  That slice toasted up really nice.  Sounds like the polenta made a big difference on the crumb texture.

Did you find that fermentation progressed quicker than normal?  The last couple times I used corn meal in a porridge, it seemed like fermentation just took off.

CrustyJohn's picture
CrustyJohn

Oh that's interesting to consider.  I had been thinking that the looseness of the dough at the end of bulk fermentation was, perhaps, an issue of the water from the porridge slowly hydrating the dough, but I bet fermentation might be more the answer considering how much sugar corn adds.

It's a bit hard to say since i left it overnight and thus wasn't really monitoring the progress.  I'd say the dough didn't seem abnormally airy, but the fact that the dough strength seemed weakened (+ only mediocre oven spring) would suggest that fermentation progressed further than typical for that combination of temperature and time.

HeiHei29er's picture
HeiHei29er

It’s something to keep in the back of your mind the next time you use the corn.  

CrustyJohn's picture
CrustyJohn

Indeed!  Fortunately temperatures are starting to get cooler, slowing that fermentation down.  That probably saved me a bit with this loaf. 

Benito's picture
Benito

I like the combination of olives, polenta and spelt.  Must be delicious John, wonderful bread.

Benny

CrustyJohn's picture
CrustyJohn

Thank you!  The next time I use corn I think I'll try the saccarification method you highlighted in your loaf.