13th set of baguettes au levain
I’ve been participating the baguette CB and realized that I hadn’t documented any of the baguette bakes in my blog. I find it can be nice to go back and see how my baking has progressed with its various ups and downs.
The formula I’ve settled on to hone my baguette craft with is Abel’s Baguette au Levain. This is the formula I’ve been following.
For three baguettes about 280 g (to account for aliquot jar)
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| Total Flour |
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| Total Dough Weight (g) |
| 900.3 |
| Prefermented | 9.09% |
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| Total Formula |
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| Liquid Levain |
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| Final Dough |
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| Ingredients | % | Grams |
| % | Grams |
| Ingredients | Grams |
| Total Flour | 100.00% | 522.5 |
| 100.00% | 47.5 |
| Final Flour | 475 |
| AP Flour/T55 | 100% | 522.5 |
| 100% | 47.5 |
| AP Flour/T55 | 475 |
| Strong Bread Flour | 0% | 0 |
| 0% | 0.0 |
| Bread Flour | 0 |
| Water | 67.7% | 353.5 |
| 100% | 47.5 |
| Water |
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| Autolyse (93%) | 0.00% | 0.0 |
| 0% | 0.0 |
| Autolyse(cool) | 306 |
| Final (7%) | 0.00% | 0.0 |
| 0% | 0.0 |
| Bassinage(v cool) | 0 |
| IDY | 0.07% | 0.38 |
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| IDY | 0.38 |
| Diastatic Malt Powder | 1% | 5.2 |
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| Malt | 5.2 |
| Salt | 1.80% | 9.38 |
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| Salt | 9.38 |
| Starter (in final dough) | 2.20% | 11.5 |
| 24% | 11.5 |
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| Levain | 95 |
| Totals | 176.89% | 900.3 |
| 224% | 106.5 |
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| 900.3 |
Fermentolyse
Dissolve diastatic malt powder, IDY and levain in water. Then add flour and mix.
20 mins later add salt with wet hands and work in with dimpling and pinching. then Rubaud kneading for up to 5 mins. Remove 30-50 g of dough and place in aliquot jar and keep with the dough.
Rest 50 mins then Coil Fold.
Rest 50 mins then Coil Fold
Once aliquot jar reaches 30% rise then place dough into refrigerator 2ºC overnight and up to 24 hours.
Next day set oven up for steaming with Sylvia towel and cast iron skillet and temperature set to 500ºF. In fact I now wait for 30 mins after oven is turned on and then place the Sylvia towel loaf pan filled with boiling water from kettle into oven.
Remove dough from fridge and divide into 3 equal weight doughs and pre-shape lightly as boules. Bench rest 15-20 mins.
Shape baguettes and rest in floured couche for 20 mins then return to fridge to chill until oven reaches 500ºF. Chilling the dough makes scoring easier.
Using transfer board place each baguette on a parchment lined peel. Brush excess flour off each baguette. Score. Brush water on each baguette.
Transfer baguettes onto baking steel using the peel and parchment. Pour boiling water into icast iron skillet. Bake with steam for 13 mins then remove Sylvia towel and cast iron skillet.
Drop temperature of oven to 480ºF and turn on convection. After 5 mins turn and rotate baguettes. Check for done ness in another 5 mins, if not fully browned then rotate and turn again. Remove once crust is nicely browned.
Comments
With this set of baguettes I was trying to see how far I could push bulk. I think these were a bit overproofed as evidenced by the relative lack of oven spring and lack of ears and grigné. With this set I ended bulk at 35-40% rise and would not go that far in the future. I think perhaps 25-30% might be better for oven spring but we’ll see if I can get this open crumb at a lower bulk rise.
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Great crumb and I love the colour. Since they are done with levain, do they keep longer than the regular one day with ordinary baguettes?
Thank you Danni, I’ve actually never tried to find out. Each time I have bake baguettes using this formula we’ve eaten one that day. The other two are then wrapped in plastic wrap and put in the freezer. They freeze extremely well, I reheat them at 325ºF for 10 mins and they are like freshly baked when done.
I'd be very proud to achieve a crumb like yours with my 30th set of baguettes. Yet you've already nailed it on your 13th trial! I saw that you've been producing nice baguettes pretty consistently since your 4th or 5th bake. Just curious, are you and your partner the only ones savoring them? Or do some of your lucky friends get to try some?
Thanks for your kind comments Elsie. Yes it has only been my partner and I eating the baguettes. If it wasn’t for the pandemic I would be seeing our friends much more often and they they would have been having some of the them. I also need to find some sort of paper bag or reusable canvas bag to transport baguettes in to bring someone a baguette.
Thanks for blogging this, Benny. I get so lost on the CB thread. Was hoping someone would just blog their successes from there. Now I can give it a go.
James, I’m glad this might help you. It’s funny that I hadn’t posted an update on my progress with baguettes in my blog, but it is easy to think that everyone who has any interest is already looking there. But I realize that the CB thread is just huge and can be hard to follow.
I hope you have good success with your baguettes. I seem to be the only one using this formula with any regularity in the CB but I found it to be a great balance of some complexity from the levain and the clean wheat flavour of the flour.
If I could just say a few things which you might already know that are some of the things I have learned from my 13 sets of baguettes I’ve baked and from the knowledge gleaned from all the bakers in the CB, they would be the following:
Use low protein flour - 10% for me seems to be ideal.
Underdevelop the gluten in the dough otherwise you’ll find the dough’s elasticity fighting you when you’re doing final shaping and stretching.
Don’t allow bulk fermentation to go past 30% rise as that might make shaping more difficult and compromise oven spring and ear formation. However, that being said, I got amazing crumb at 35-40% rise.
My baguettes benefitted from the addition of 1% diastatic malt, this sounds high but it does help with browning of the crust.
Initial oven spring is so important so have a good steam set up and bake hot. Others have found success with lower temperatures but I found 500ºF for at least the first 13 mins on steam worked for me.
I found that for my current skills and current flour, pre-shaping as a loose boule gave me the best shaping experience, others found loose rolls to work for them particularly if they were doing really long baguettes. Mine are more long batards.
I’m sure that there’s a lot more in the CB but those few things stand out for me as pearls I have learned.
Please jump in and post to the CB, you’ll have a lot of help there if you in fact need any. You are obviously an accomplished baker.
Giving this a go right now. I'm using that Korean "Soft All Purpose" flour and I'm afraid that it may be below 10% protein even though the label indicates something like 3g out of 30g serving. after mix. it's quite slack.
Yes the flours I have been using supposedly 10% protein with 3 g per 30 g serving, I’m sure they are rounding off, also are more slack than anything I’ve been used to. That will be good for extensibility and for crumb, fingers crossed for you James, I’m looking forward to your baguettes. Please join us in the CB, not that I mind you posting here, don’t take that the wrong way.
Benny,
I'm afraid this batch went wrong... hydration too high for my flour, over proofed and botched loading them to oven.
The fact that it's 100F outside and i've run my oven for over 3 hours for other breads before these didnt help. i'll post back to CB thread on my next (and very successful) attempt.
Thanks,
James
Yes your kitchen was probably crazy hot today and it doesn’t take much to overproof baguettes with the dough being so skinny once shaped. Hopefully you’ll have better conditions next time James.
Benny
Looks like you've nailed it. You certainly have baked some beautiful baggies!
Now you need to try the 36 hour bagguets?
Thanks Ian, for some reason my crumb on baguettes is outclassing my crumb on batards and I’ve been at batards much longer.
I will confess I am somewhat mystified by your procedures - the short bulk fermentation and essentially no proofing time - unless I misunderstand your description. But I can't argue with the way your loaves look. That crumb does not say "under-fermented."
How do these baguettes taste?
Happy baking!
David
Thanks David, I’ve been working hard to try to get my baguettes to where they are now. I still have work to do on the outward appearance but I have to say I’m pleased with the crumb I’ve been getting quite consistently.
In regards to the bulk fermentation, typically my bulk temperature is about 82ºF and this dough usually takes about 4-4.5 hours at this temperature to reach 30% rise based on the aliquot jar. Keep in mind that there is a tiny amount of IDY at 0.07% in addition to the levain so it moves along fairly quickly.
I do like the clean wheat flavour of these baguettes with the added complexity from the levain. So they are more complex than the Bouabsa that I have baked once before and I like that I’m using my starter but avoiding what seems to be thicker crust and chewier crumb from levain only baguettes. I prefer a thin crisp crust and a softer more tender chew to the crumb and Abel’s slightly modified hybrid formula gives me that.
Stay safe and enjoy your baking too David.
Benny
David
Hi Benny thanks for the writeup I’m giving this a try right now, I hope they work out as well as yours!
Glenn I hope you have some luck with it, not sure if you’ve baked baguettes before, but they are a challenge so don’t give up if you don’t have a perfect bake, keep trying. Please post your bake somewhere, a great place would be the Community Bake - Baguettes this is where we have been sharing our bakes and learning from each other’s bake and experiences. I know I wouldn’t have achieved what I have to this point without the help of the other bakers here in that community bake.
Benny
Hi Benny
I’ve made many baguettes both with yeast and sourdough. I usually seem to prefer the taste of the yeast ones but I’m looking to get a softer and more open crumb with the sourdough. I’m hoping this combination might work I’ve tried everything from the 36 hour recipe to quick yeast baguettes. I did put an entry in the community bake very early on. Thanks for your response
Sorry Glenn, my mistake, that CB thread has become so huge I didn’t remember that you posted there and have done baguettes before.
Edited to add: I’m going to back off the bulk fermentation with my next bake down to 25% to see if I can still get the open crumb but also enhance the oven spring, ears and grigne.
That thread is huge and I haven’t taken the time to read through it all.
I got distracted by a granddaughter with a broken iPhone this afternoon and the dough rose at least 40-50%. I got it right into the fridge, hope it’s ok?
Hi Benny
They got away for me a little bit during the bulk proof but they still turned out quite nice. I didn’t get great ears on them but they look good, lots of oven spring which is surprising but I will keep working on this. Thanks for all of your help
Glenn, you think they rose 40-50% and still got that oven spring, that’s really great actually. I’m gradually dialing back on the bulk rise from 35-40% and my next bake down to 25%. I felt when I did 40’ish that the oven spring suffered although the crumb was great. It looks like your oven spring at 50% was better than mine at 30%. What is your oven set up and what temperatures are you baking them at. I’m very impressed, good bake.
What do you think of the flavour, crust, crumb texture etc.
Good job especially with your distraction, sorry to hear about the broken iPhone.
Hi Benny
i was concerned that they were way to far gone but they came out really well. The crust was thin and very crunchy and the flavour was excellent. I think the combination of yeast and starter is a really good method. I used a regular bake method with a heavy baking stone (500 degrees) I launched the baguettes onto the stone sitting on parchment using a pizza paddle then poured a cup of boiling water into my pan with lava rock. At 12 minutes I removed the pan and changed to 450 convection until the colour was where I wanted. The shaping was a bit sloppy and the scores didn’t seem deep enough. I will keep playing around with this. Thanks so much foe posting this method!
FWIW I used Robin Hood unbleached all purpose flour
I'm glad that you like the formula, I agree that the combination of levain and commercial yeast is excellent for flavour and texture. I find that the sourdough. baguettes that I made had too much of a thick crust and chewier crumb than I prefer, although I admit I only made them 100% sourdough once. Are you in Canada, you mention Robin Hood AP flour so I guessing you are.
Yes, I’m not too far from you. I live in Puslinch township just east of Cambridge, On
I've been to Cambridge but not Puslinch, nice to meet a fellow Canadian here. ??