Semolina Capriccioso, alfanso style, updated Apr 2
The copycat is back, that would be me. David Snyder's recent post on his work in progress, Semolina Capriccioso, had my brain already plotting a visit to this bread, especially as he described the taste. I've already professed my adoration for his Sourdough Italian Baguette bread a few times on TFL. So the wheels encased inside my cranium were turning and I just had to scratch that itch. Y'all know what I mean!
I was interested in making a trip down to North Miami Beach (hint - don't go there expecting a beach, the name is a misnomer) to the only really real Italian market that I know of in these parts - Lorenzo's. And here is what I saw. Ian and other pizza aficionados - I'm talking to you! 5kg bags of 00 pizza flour for US$15.
But that wasn't what I went for. No, I came home with this:
Lorenzo's has shelves of semolina and semolina rimacinata. Those plastic containers are full of semolina rimacinata too, but at US$1 per pound. I didn't see them until I was just about at the checkout counter. Boy what a haul! (not to mention the goat butter too)
So off to the task I went. I used my 50% hydration rye starter for the 50% hydration durum biga in the late morning, and by evening saw no signs of life. So I started a second biga using my ever-ready 75% hydration levain, fed it down to 50% and built the biga for an overnight ferment. By early morning it had doubled, as David suggested it should, and so I used that and discarded the rye starter version. Here are the two bigas at daybreak Easter Sunday:
I reformulated the original formula weight for 50% more than David's and came up with about 1565g for a mix. Wanting to try my hand at my French Folds at this 80% hydration dough and to not rely on my mixer, I was successful, but added another 100 FFs because the dough was so slack and David wrote that his mixer was whirring for ~12 minutes. Still, the dough was completely workable by hand, no mixer was employed and it was billowy with some tension . And this is what the dough looked like after the 400th FF:
I didn't want to interrupt the development of the gluten during the mixing phase, so I added the toasted sesame seeds during the first of the five Letter Folds. And this is what it looked like just as it was to be retarded.
I figured on 2 600g batards and one ~340g baguette. The dough was indeed a bit slack and the rolling of the baguette certainly attested to that. But although the batards were equally slack, they were much easier to form and did not present any problems at all.
At bake time I apparently made the 2 middle scores on the baguette too close together again and the oven spring just blew right past them. Still need more work on perfecting the double score on batards as these were a little bit too offset in parity. I think that the shorter scores on this type of dough as a baguette are more iffy than on the batards because the dough is so wet and the seeds also help weigh down the shorter scored flap during oven spring.
The baguette baked for 27 minutes, the batards for 30 minutes plus a 6 minute oven venting, oven off.
Changes from David's O.P.:
- Used bread flour instead of AP flour.
- Mixed by hand - 400 French Folds (they go fast! Faster than the time that the dough was in David's mixer.)
- Incorporated the sesame seeds on the first Letter Fold. More than I imagined once I saw them spread out across the dough.
- Kitchen at ~80dF, therefore 5 Letter Folds at 25 minute intervals.
- Retarded for approx. 10 hours prior to divide and shaping As I've stated before, the number of hours between retard and shaping is virtually irrelevant.
- After divide, and shaping they went on a couche and back into the retarder for an overnight nap.
- The batards were robust enough to stand up to rolling them on a wet paper towel and then in a plate full of sesame seeds.
Baked straight out of the refrigerator, no warmup. Here the steam had just been released.
The taste is lovely!
April 2 update: I re-formulated to exchange the 50% hydration semolina biga with my own 75% standard levain. I also adjusted the final dough amount of flour and water to abide by the 60% durum flour in the mix and also to maintain the 80% hydration level. As I didn't perceive any benefit to the sesame seeds inside the braed, so I also eliminated that as well.
For a first run, I kept the total dough weight down to 2x500g batards. More experimentation with larger batards will soon be underway. And then I can write up a little more about it. Just one picture from this run should demonstrate that the results are about the same, and the bread is just as delicious.
alan
Comments
Alan, I would pay good money for them beauties. I really like every aspect, the shaping, scoring, bloom, the crust and the holey crumb. Even the dough is appealing, it's the kind of dough work with, nice and developed.
You are very skilled.
-Michael
I was kind of thinking about you when making these, knowing your love of (probably) most things Italian. And the recent back and forth between you, dbm, and Abe about the pane di Altamura.
Yes, copycat - that is me. I find David's formulae so appealing most of the time, that he seems to want to know what I'd like to try next, and then publishes it.
Having grown up in NYC with a lot of Italian bakeries everywhere, it ain't hard to latch onto the taste of semolina based loaves. Just for the heck of it, here is a picture of me in Firenze in '99 doing one of my favorite things to do in Italy. Sitting in a churchyard with my picnic lunch: a loaf of bread, salumi, formaggi, and a Birra Moretti. Life was never so sweet!
Wow! Look at you sporting that fancy"stash" :).
Love that market...what a great haul. Your bread looks like it came out fantastic. Great crust and crumb!
Regards,
Ian
I wore it for 36 years. Grew it at age 20 so that I wouldn't look 16, and had never seen my adult face without it until it came off. Now it's been gone for 9 years (gosh, that long. wow!!!) and I really can't envision growing it back again. So not only is the stash gone, but so is almost all of the color in my hair...
Yeah, Lorenzo's is one of a kind, at least down this way. There's a very small chain of Italian markets called Doris around these parts and another 1 or 2 independents. They are nice, upscale, but can't hold a candle to this place. I imagine that Little Italy in the Bronx may have a place or two like this, but these days I'm not so sure. Probably Grand Street area in lower Manhattan has a few, but they tend to be more like groceries than supermarkets.
I wish that I was a big pizza aficionado after seeing those 5kg bags, but I only make it once in a while.
It seems that all I have to do is to sit back and wait for David to post something new, and it triggers my auto-bake response ;-) Thanks, alan.
The case of Durum wheat, semolina and pane di Altamura has indeed been hot topic recently. The method they use to make such bread still remains a bit of a mystery. I certainly do love Italy and being a real foodie it has so much to offer!
Thanks for the picture, that's 11 years before I first went to Firenze! A great memory for you I'm sure.
you and David there is plenty of semolina to go around TFL twice. Yous turned out remarkably like David's did even with the bread flour and different gluten development.. Well done all the way around and
Happy baking Alan
or be in the ballpark of David's level of workmanship is a good day for me.
Since he is still in "discovery phase" on playing with his version of this bread, I figured that if I gave it some additional gluten based protein via the bread flour that it might hold together a little better than what he described. That might have just happened.
thanks, alan
PS North Miami Beach may not be beachfront right now, but give it another half century and the Atlantic will be lapping its shores!
That's truly some beautiful bread you've got there. I can practically smell it from those great pictures. It's actually making me kinda hungry . . .
Cheers!
Trevor
Just yesterday I was watching your "cupping" method for mixing high hydration doughs from that post you left. I can't figure out how it works so effectively, but from the resultant loaf, I guess that it does. Makes the French Fold method I do seem like savagery. Your method is almost zen-like in comparison!
alan
That's a good way to put it. It is kinda zen-like. Especially when you're half-asleep in the early AM.
Trevor
The higher gluten bread flour must have made your dough functionally drier than mine. My loaves' crumb was very chewy when first cooled, although it softened by the next day. I imagine your bread was even chewier.
But the bread flour did make the loaves easier to coat with seeds. (The density of seeds you achieve is a wonder!) Also, less danger of over-degassing during shaping. I admire the crumb structure you got.
So, you retarded in bulk than again after shaping. Hmmm .... Pretty sour, are they?
Back to the lab!
David
the additional protein in the bread flour getting it a little more workable than what you described. All I do is follow the method that you laid out for the coating, nothing more, and voila - I consistently get a coating of seeds like that. And BTW, thanks a bunch, with seeds winding up everywhere from my floor to the cutting board to between my teeth. But I do so love them.
I follow my standard M.O., seeing no reason to change it. Medium to long retard before the divide & shape, then right back to continue the retard for the target time frame. As long as the whole retard process stays within the recommended time range, I find no downside to doing it this way.
As far as sour, not a chance. My levain is never sour, perhaps just a hint at most. I don't think that either of the batards I left with you could have been perceived as sour at all. I don't try for sour and it just never really comes out that way. I think that I'd have to rework the levain to get sour, something that I've never done.
Thanks, alan
Hi Alfanso
What a bread!!
Incredible crumb and crust.I am myself a pizza baker but love to bake breads and I'll definetely try your recipee.
In Italy we would call it a sicilian bread.
Bravo!
ma la receta originale sta il lavoro e radicata in il internet collegamento da David Snyder qua. Io sono solamente un seguace di los istruzioni. In la città New York lo si chiama Pan di Semola o semplicemente - Italian Bread!
Muchas gracias para las palabras alucinantes La receta esta el trabajo del autor David Snyder y se puede encontrarla acá .
alan
.
Ciao Alan (Paisa')
I have only a question regarding the biga with levain.With so many hours of bulk,retarding and proofing, the taste doesnt get a little sour?
I usally use stiff levain 50 %, refreshing it 3 times every 4 hours before use.
Ciao
The levain/preferment in this formula is referred to as a biga by David Snyder. The biga is only refreshed with a single build.
According to David, his dough retards for a total time of as long as 18 hours, after which he removes the dough for approximately 90 minutes to divide, shape and proof the dough. And then he bakes it. He reports the flavor as "sweet and nutty".
I bake directly from the refrigerator, I will leave the dough to retard for as long as 24 hours with no workbench proofing. I remove the dough halfway through retard to divide and shape it, and then return the shaped dough to the refrigerator.
I find the flavor to be very similar to what he reports. It is not sour at all. I hope this explains how I do it versus what David does.
https://www.weekendbakery.com/posts/more-artisan-bread-baking-tips-poolish-biga/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pre-ferment and this
https://www.weekendbakery.com/posts/more-artisan-bread-baking-tips-poolish-biga/
The Wikipedia article, in particular, presents an outstanding example of a mashup of English, French, American and Italian terminology. It's a miracle any bread gets made!
Happy baking!
David
In Italy we call a biga ,a preferment with 45% hydratation,1% commercial fresh yeast,mixed with strong flour W350-380
final temp 18 Grades Celsius, kept for 18-24 hours at a temp 16-18 Grades Celsius.