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SueVT's blog

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SueVT

Every time I bake panettone, I try to build on what has worked, what I've learned, and new things I want to try out.

This bake is caramel apple; the result is very satisfying: moist, delicate, shreddable, flavored with spices, caramel bits and apple. No off-flavors or acidity. 

My lievito madre, and my understanding of it, has improved gradually over the last year, and it is true that fermentation is the main key to making panettone. But also, the other elements of this bake, and in fact all the steps of the process, contribute to the result.  With so many different sources of information out there, each baker must find their own path through the maze of seemingly conflicting ideas.

 

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SueVT

Panettone can be made is a wide variety of flavors, not just the classic raisins and candied orange peel. In this case, I used apple chunks, caramel bits, and cider donut spices, which combine beautifully with the light buttery and fermentation notes of the panettone.

 

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SueVT

Still working away at my panettone here in the VT wilderness. I've adopted a consistent twice-daily feeding process for my Lievito Madre, and have made other adjustments in dough handling, pH measurements, proofing temperature, and baking process.

I am now seeing significantly more alveolation in the loaves, so apparently all of these things are contributing factors. 

This is the Candied Strawberry Chocolate Caramel panettone.  Here is a side-by-side with my bake of two weeks ago, the new bake is the top row:

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SueVT

Adapted from Schvartzapel's recipe in Chambelland.

I've added candied strawberries, Valrhona caramel chocolate, and caramel chunks, 

Recently, I've focused on lievito madre feeding schedules, techniques for improving the microbial balance of LM, mixing procedures, timings of fermentation stages, and baking techniques.

There are literally hundreds of aspects to making panettone, and many of them are on the critical path for success. This is why it is so challenging, and also why it is so enjoyable and rewarding. Of course, eating the end product is very rewarding too.

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SueVT

Red, White and almost Blue!

Really a delicious combination, and a pretty satisfying bake. The white chocolate chips mostly melt into the crumb, give an overall cocoa-buttery richness that goes well with the cherries. I guessed at amounts, next time will double the add-ins.

 

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SueVT

Made my latest batch of panettone using the Roy recipe from Chambelland's Sourdough Panettone and Viennoiserie. This is my third attempt, and my first successful attempt, with this recipe. It succeeded very nicely this time, producing a remarkably moist, light, delicate and springy result. 

Fine tuning this bake will perhaps include slight modifications to the second impasto mixing process. This recipe is different from most, in that it includes both yolks and water added after the butter. This is like lightening an emulsion; it made me think of baking mayonnaise. 

The dough had very good handling qualities. My pH is never in the zone, but always somewhat lower; still, getting very good results! 

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SueVT

 

I've been working on my Lievito Madre for some time, and until recently was unable to bake panettone successfully due to excess acidity. Another contributing issue was my mixing technique, which involved an old KA mixer (the small one) and an even older Cuisinart mixer with a broken hinge; a strap clamp was tightened whenever I needed to  hold the head down.

My new Famag mixer made short work of the panettone impastos; in fact, the biggest challenge is being fast enough with the additions to avoid heating the dough. My improved LM performed very adequately, enabling good gluten development and persistence. I was excited that the dough never showed signs of weakening, and was pretty easy to shape and form. It rose well, within the recipe timeframe, and the resulting panettone is sweet and delicious.

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SueVT

In my quest to make a perfect, consistent, large miche (~2kg), I have made a slow transition from partially yeasted to my current formula, which is sourdough only, 80% hydration. I'm learning that different flours behave very differently, and many of my experiments have resulted in mud, pancake-flat loaves, giant air chambers, flying saucers etc. 

I have a good formula; no question about it. Problems arise from things like shaping technique, insufficient folding, excess hydration for a specific flour, and a biggie: insufficient steam while baking. I've found that even if I do everything else right, lack of steam defeats me, sometimes turning the miche into a basketball, or a strained sofa-cushion shape. 

I just bought the Camp Chef 14" Deluxe Dutch oven, after many attempts with baking stones and steam pans, inverted hotel pan, Le Creuset, clay bakers etc.  Nothing gave me the results I was looking for.  This inexpensive dutch oven had two qualities that make it uniquely suited to my needs: it has a lid which is designed to be a frying pan surface, so it has a raised edge and flat interior. My largest banetton can be flipped into this lid with room to expand. Second, it has a relatively deep pot, which provides enough room for the expanding miche plus steam all around it.

I preheated the dutch oven for about 40 minutes at 450F. Handling with heat-resistant silicon-covered gloves, I put the base on the stove top, inverted the miche onto a peel, then slid it into the frying-pan-lid. Quicky slashed, covered (carefully) with the inverted hot dutch oven base, then back in the oven to cook for 20. Then removed the inverted base and baked for another 30 minutes.

Contrary to my usual practice I left the oven on Convection. My reasoning was that air can't get into the dutch oven, but the convection would heat the iron all over more effectively. This worked out well. I should mention that I put a flat baking sheet under the DO so that it could sit on the oven rack properly. This also helped prevent over-baking the bottom crust.

I got very good oven spring, similar to what I get with a 2 lb loaf in a clay baker or le creuset. Blistering, indicating steam, good secondary expansion in the slashes. Very caramelized crust due to keeping the convection on for the entire baking cycle. 

I am happy with the openings, I think they are good for a 45% whole wheat loaf at 80%. I compared to a Red Hen miche, which I consider to be excellent, and they are very very similar, except my loaf is twice as big. I've included a photo that shows side-by-side comparison with a Red Hen Vermont Miche. Difference in color and ingredient list indicates that they use less  ww flour %, and also lower hydration than my loaf.  

The ww flour I am using (Bronze Chief) is outstanding IMHO.

 

 

 

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