We were supposed to be doing this on Saturday, but had to delay as we had such a sad day yesterday having to put our special and much-loved cat Shuffles to sleep, and sort out a suitable burial in Ingram Valley beneath the Cheviot Hills.
Our neighbours, Anna and Mark came round this afternoon and we enjoyed a pre-Christmas Feast, of essential Mediterranean bias. Whilst I made lots of food, Alison decorated our very impressive Christmas tree; quite the finest tree we have ever had here in Ananda. Here are a couple of photos:
We had Rosemary Roast Potatoes and Fassolia, which used Borlotti Beans and was cooked slowly for several hours to pack in the flavour. I also made Spanokopita, with home-made filo pastry; Breadsong’s take on the “Christmas Rose” took the table centrepiece.
I used the formula posted by Breadsong, with a couple of significant alterations. Firstly I used a Biga instead of making a Straight Dough. I also used Fresh Yeast instead of Instant Yeast, no sugar, just a tad less salt, and a trifle more water. This is my formula:
Well, it’s not far away now. We still have much to do in this household before the holiday season begins. Alison has a busy week at work. I have a lot of baking to do. It’s Alnwick Christmas Farmers’ Market on Friday. Anna has agreed to help me out on the stall, and she is great at selling. So I’m going all out to make more than ever to offer for sale. Stollen and mince pies are the festive offering to accompany the usual range of breads which I have posted many times on TFL before: Gilchesters’ Farmhouse and White, Moscow Rye, Black Pumpernickel, Eric’s Favourite Rye, Spelt Hadrian Bread, Sourdough Seed Bread, Five Grain Levain and the Brazil Nut & Prune Bread.
The exciting news for the New Year:
Firstly Nigel and I are doing Hexham Farmers’ Market twice a month. Additionally I have more work back in Leeds and hope to be up in Dunbar soon again too. Additionally there is work aplenty to do expanding the bakery side of “Bread and Roses”.
At long last an image of a Rose made into a loaf of bread to publicise “Bread and Roses”. Breadsong, thank you very much for posting this.
This is very much my take on Eric's formula. I don't like dried onions, but I love fried onions. I used my liquid rye sourdough, and it ended up as 30% pre-fermented flour. There is no added baker's yeast, and the hydration is 70%. I used an Organic white bread flour in the final dough. Here is the formula:
Eric’s Favourite Rye
Rye Sour Refreshment
Day/date
Time
Sour [g]
Flour [g]
Water [g]
TOTAL [g]
Temp °C
Thurs 22 November
08:00
40
150
250
440
28°C
Thurs 22 November
13:00
440
1350
2250
4040
28°C
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye
30
1500
Water
50
2500
TOTAL
80
4000
2. Final Dough
Rye Sourdough [above]
80
4000
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
70
3500
Caraway Seeds
0.6
30
Salt
1.8
90
Fried Onions
7
350
Water
20
1000
TOTAL
179.4
8970
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
70
-
% wholegrain flour
30
-
Factor
-
50
Method:
Build the sour according to the schedule.
Chop and fry the onions in olive oil and allow to cool
Combine all the materials for mixing, and use a hook attachment, mixing on first speed for 3 minutes. Scrape down the bowl and mix a further 5 minutes on second speed. DDT 28°C
Ferment in bulk for 2½ hours, with 3 S&F, every half hour.
Scale, divide and mould round. Rest covered for 15 minutes.
Final shape and proof 1½ hours. Use couche or bannetons
Score tops and bake in wood-fired ovens
Brush with Corn Starch Glaze. Cool on wires
I've also been making lots of mince pies, and a rather nice Banana Bread flavoured with vanilla, fruit and nuts too.
The long-awaited delivery of logs arrived on Sunday, so I re-fired the oven on Monday to get some heat into the brickwork, then fired again yesterday and set-to early on a full day of production. My new delivery of flour only arrived late on yesterday, so I had to make Gilchesters’ White breads, as opposed to my more favoured Farmhouse loaves. By close of play I had 14 white loaves [2 @ 1200g, 4 @ 800g and 8 @ 600g finished weight], plus 8 Moscow Rye @ 800g and 2 slices of Stollen yielding 36 finger pieces in total.
Here are the formulae:
1. Gilchesters’ White Levain
Wheat Levain Refreshment:
Day/Date
Time
Levain
Bread Flour
Water
Total
Temp °C
Monday 19 November
06:00
40
300
180
520
20
Monday 19 November
11:00
520
500
300
1320
20
Monday 19 November
16:00
1320
500
300
2120
18
Monday 19 November
20:00
2120
1275
765
4160
18
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
35
2520
Water
21
1512
TOTAL
56
4032
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1 above]
56
4032
Gilchesters’ Organic Pizza/Ciabatta Flour
65
4680
Salt
1.6
116
Water
47
3384
TOTAL
169.6
12212
% pre-fermented flour
35
-
% overall hydration
68
-
FACTOR
-
72
Method:
Build leaven as described. Ferment the leaven for 1 hour ambient after the last refreshment, then leave overnight in the chiller.
In the morning take the leaven out of the fridge first thing. Make an autolyse with the flour and water for the final dough with DDT 28°C, and leave covered for one hour.
To mix the final dough, divide the leaven and the autolyse into 2 and mix 2 separate mixes in a 20 quart machine with the dough hook. Use the delayed salt method, adding the salt after 7 minutes of mixing on first speed. Scrape down, add the salt, then mix a further 8 minutes on first speed. DDT 26°C.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours. Stretch and fold after 1½ hours.
Scale, divide and mould. Rest 15 minutes and prepare bannetons. Re-mould and put into bannetons.
Final proof 2 hours. Tip each loaf out onto the peel and score the top. Bake in a wood-fired brick oven.
Cool on wires.
There is a sequence of photographs below which cover most of the process.
Autolyse, above
Ripened levain, above
White dough off the mixer, above
White dough after 2 hours bulk fermentation, above
Same dough after Stretch and fold, above
14 dough pieces, pre-shaped, upside down and resting, above
Final Shape, above
Scored and ready to load to the oven, above
Baked Miche, above
A basketful!
2. Moscow Rye
I have posted the formula for this on my blog many times. I made 7600g of Paste.
3. Stollen Slice
This is baked as a tray-baked slice with a layer of marzipan through the middle, then cut into fingers, as opposed to baking as individual loaves. I used a “ferment and dough” method; the end-product was really special. This is the formula and recipe to make 2 slabs:
Method: FERMENT AND DOUGH
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Ferment
Strong White Bread Flour
30
240
Water @ 38°C
46
368
Yeast
7
56
Sugar
5
40
TOTAL
88
704
2.Final Dough
Ferment
88
704
Strong White Bread Flour
70
560
Milk Powder
5
40
Salt
1
8
Sugar
5
40
Butter
20
160
Eggs
10
80
Spice: Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Cardemom
2
16
Sub-total
201
1608
Sultanas
37.5
300
Raisins
5.6
45
Glacé Cherries
25
200
Mixed Peel [90% fruit on flour]
21.9
175
TOTAL
291
2328
Raw Almond Paste
Ground Almonds
32
256
Golden Caster Sugar
32
256
Egg
6
48
TOTAL
70
560
Oven profile: bake in a convection oven at 160°C for 40 minutes, or in the wood-fired oven as it begins to drop from baking lots of bread.
Method:
Whisk all the ingredients for the ferment together in a steel bowl.
Cover with cling film and set in a warm place for half an hour.
Mix all the ingredients, except the fruit and the marzipan, together with the ferment in an upright machine with a hook; 2 minutes on first speed and 6 minutes on 3rd speed. DDT 28°C.
Rest for 15 minutes, then cut the fruit into the dough with a scotch cutter.
Bulk proof 20 – 30 minutes.
Scale and divide into 4 x 580g pieces; mould round and rest 15 minutes.
Line 2 small baking sheets with silicone paper. Pin out each dough pieces to a rectangle the size of the baking sheet. Place one dough piece on the base of each baking sheet. Top this with a thin layer of raw almond paste, then place the second dough piece on top of this to make a sandwich. Brush each top with egg, and scatter 100g of flaked almonds on each slab as a topping.
Final proof 50 – 60 minutes.
Bake as oven profile.
Baste with a layer of melted butter, then dust with icing sugar. Allow to cool and repeat. Allow to cool completely on wires, then dust once more with icing sugar.
Cut each slab into 18 fingers for serving.
A couple of photographs to complete the post
I am offering some of these items for sale in our local village hall on Saturday morning. I will now be adding Eric’s Favourite Rye to the offering. So, I’ll be baking again on Friday, and would like to encourage others on TFL to join with Floyd and myself over the weekend; bake for Eric.
Our next-door neighbours recently took a daytrip to my old stomping ground across the North Pennines in Cumbria. They very kindly sent a text message to me wondering if I might want any flour, as they ended up at the Watermill at Little Salkeld: http://organicmill.co.uk/http://organicmill.co.uk/
In the late 1980s and early 1990s when I baked at the Red Herring Workers’ Co-operative, we used flour from the Watermill, exclusively; organically grown wheat, usually biodynamic Demeter standard, grown in the North of England, and stone-milled using water power…unique!
My choices of flour?
The Miller’s Magic is a flour which was introduced shortly after the mill began to produce Unbleached White Flour using a traditional bolting method. The last and finest of the sieves produces what are known as the “Middlings”, extracted from the outer portion of the endosperm of the wheat grain. Maslin flour is a blend of rye flour with “middlings”, which produces flour which is a little grey, reasonably finely ground, and somewhat stronger than might be expected. And this is a by-product, remember!
A few customers ask for Spelt Bread. I like to use Spelt, and made a lot of it at the Village Bakery in the late 1990s; it was marketed as “Hadrian Bread”, named after the Roman Emperor in charge at the time the Romans occupied Britain, when Spelt was the most common wheat crop. Even more appropriately, Hadrian’s Wall lies only a few miles from this North Pennine bakery. My main problem with spelt is that it costs a lot of money. This is because it is difficult to mill, as the outer husk is attached to the grain, and, because yield is very poor when compared to more modern wheat varieties. This did not put me off asking for Biodynamic Spelt Flour. And I made a variation of the Hadrian Bread too. It uses my regular wheat leaven, plus a “Raisin Must”. Honey seems to be a ubiquitous “sweetener” found in Spelt breads. This alternative is a hot soaker of raisins which is blitzed to a fine purée to add to the final dough.
Both formulae are given below, along with a few photographs.
I am now looking forward to offering tastings of these loaves to local people as part of the next stage of the business development plan.
I made a couple of old favourites to justify firing up the brick oven The Millers’ Magic: Maslin Flour and a Golden Linseed Soaker
Wheat Levain build
Day/Date
Time
Stock
Flour
Water
TOTAL
Temp °C
Tuesday 13 November
10:00
40
200
120
360
21
Tuesday 13 November
17:00
360
500
300
1160
21
Tuesday 13 November
22:00
1160
1100
660
2920
18
Final Paste
Material/Stage
Formula
[% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a. White Leaven-refreshed
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
30
630
Water
18
378
TOTAL
48
1008
1b. Cold Soaker
Organic Golden Linseeds
10
210
Water
30
630
TOTAL
40
840
2. Final Dough
Leaven from 1a
48
1008
Soaker from 1b
40
840
Watermill Organic Maslin Flour
70
1470
Salt
2
42
Water
25 - 30
525 - 630
TOTAL
185 – 190
3885 - 3990
% pre-fermented flour
30
% hydration
73 - 78
FACTOR
-
21
Method:
Build the leaven as schedule and prepare soaker the night before.
Combine all the ingredients in the mixer using a hook attachment. Mix 10 - 15 minutes on first speed, scraping down the bowl as required. DDT 26°C.
Bulk ferment 2½ - 3 hours
Scale, divide and pre-shape. Rest covered 15 minutes; prepare bannetons.
Final shape; final proof 1½ - 2 hours.
Score top and bake in wood-fired oven
Cool on wires
Dinkel Bread with Levain
Material/Stage
Formula
[% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a. White Leaven-refreshed
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
30
630
Water
18
378
TOTAL
48
1008
1b. “Raisin Must”
Californian Raisins
8
168
Hot Water
8
168
TOTAL
16
336
2. Final Dough
Leaven from 1a
48
1008
“Raisin Must” from 1b
16
336
Watermill Organic Wholemeal Spelt
70
1470
Salt
1.8
38
Water
40
840
TOTAL
175.8
3692
% pre-fermented flour
30
% hydration
66
FACTOR
-
21
Method:
Prepare the leaven as schedule. Soak the raisins in the hot water overnight.
Blitz the raisins and water to a must. Combine all the ingredients with the leaven and must in a mixing bowl with a hook attachment. Mix on first speed for 15 minutes, scraping down the bowl as required. DDT 27°C.
Bulk proof 2 hours
Scale, divide and mould
Final proof 1 - 2 hours
Score the tops and bake in wood-fired ovens
Cool on wires
Campagne with Rye Sourdough and Wheat Levain
Material/Stage
Formula
[% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a Wheat Levain
60% hydration
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
25
400
Water
15
240
TOTAL
40
640
1b Rye Sourdough
167% hydration
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
3
48
Water
5
80
TOTAL
8
128
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1a]
40
640
Rye Sourdough [from 1b]
8
128
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
50
800
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
22
352
Salt
1.5
24
Water
49
784
TOTAL
170.5
2728
% pre-fermented flour
28
-
% overall hydration
69
-
% wholegrain flour
25
-
FACTOR
-
16
Method:
Prepare the levains as schedule. Make an “autolyse” with final dough flour and water plus the rye sourdough
Combine wheat levain and autolyse in the mixer on first speed for 5 minutes. Add the salt, mix 2 minutes on first and 3 minutes on second speed.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours; S&F after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale and divide; mould round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare large bannetons. Re-mould and set for final proof in bannetons.
Final proof 1½ hours. Pre-heat oven.
Tip onto peel, Bake in wood-fired oven
Cool on wires.
Moscow Rye Bread
Rye Sour Refreshment
Day/date
Time
Sour [g]
Flour [g]
Water [g]
TOTAL [g]
Temp °C
Monday 12 November
19:00
40
300
500
840
30
Tuesday 13 November
13:00
840
720
1200
2660
29
Final Paste
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a] Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
930
Water
50
1550
TOTAL
80
2480
1b] “Scald”
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
13
403
Red Rye Malt
7
217
Blackstrap Molasses
1
31
Caraway Seeds
0.1
3
Boiling Water
35
1085
TOTAL
56.1
1739
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
2480
“Scald” [from 1b]
56.1
1739
TOTAL
136.1
4219
3. Final Paste
“Sponge” [from 2]
136.1
4219
Shipton Mill Organic Light Rye Flour
50
1550
Salt
1.2
37
TOTAL
187.3
5806
% pre-fermented flour
30 + 20 = 50
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain flour
50 + 50[997]
-
FACTOR
-
31
Method:
Build the sourdough as described above. Make the “scald” as follows: combine the caraway and the red rye malt and dark rye flour. Weigh the molasses into a pan, add water and bring to a rolling boil. Tip this onto the flour mix, and add any extra boiling water if there is evaporation. Stir well to ensure full gelatinisation. Cover and cool.
Once sufficiently cool, add the scald to the sour to make the sponge. Cover and leave to ferment for 4 hours.
For the final paste combine the sponge with remaining flour and the salt, mix with the paddle beater in an upright machine, 2 minutes on first speed and 2 minutes on second speed. Scrape down the bowl to ensure thorough mixing.
Bulk proof for 1 hour with DDT at 28°C.
Scale and divide, shape and place in bread pans prepared with lining of shortening and coating of rye flour. Smooth off the top and attach lids.
Final proof for 1 hour at 28°C, then bake.
Bake in the dead wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
Ok, I’m off to make a croissant dough to retard overnight, plus rolling out the butter, and, an overnight biga for some bread rolls. I need another delivery of wood…very soon!
I spent much of last week baking and preparing myself for the challenges and opportunities opening up from this local food festival, now in its 8th year; http://www.alnwickfoodfestival.co.uk
All this began back in January when I first saw a tweet asking if anyone was interested in demonstrating/talking at the food festival. I made immediate contact, and Karen, who co-ordinates the event came to see me later that week. I contacted my colleague, Ann, from “Dough Works”; http://www.doughworks.co.uk and she agreed to work with me in partnership for the event. We prepared a presentation where I would talk and she would demonstrate, and we also agreed to share a stall to sell our bread and other baked lovelies over the weekend. The stall was given to us free resulting from us agreeing to present; an excellent deal to me!
Last week I began baking in the sunshine at home and made some lovely Sourdough Seed Breads and Five Grain Levains, which looked like this:
After that I had a successful baking day with my friend Nigel, using his large wood-fired oven at his home in Ryton, near Newcastle. On Friday, Nigel spent a second day baking, and I trundled into Alnwick to the Farmers’ Market. The day began with lots of heavy showers, and ended up being a wash-out. However, the sun came out later, and the weather became very settled, just in time for the big event at the weekend.
My parents had come to visit, and my Dad had put up some great shelves in the kitchen, greatly improving storage for my bakery ingredients. However, it meant a few difficulties coping with loading up the car from the kitchen; it all came good in the end.
Over the two day event I sold all but 4 of the 200 loaves baked for the event by Nigel, and/or me; we also sold nearly all of the breads and other lovely treats which Ann made as well. The sun shone, and there was some great food offered throughout the market square for the many visitors to enjoy. When Alison and my parents arrived in town there was no parking to be found in the town centre; they had to park some way off and walk in; so it brought a lot of business into the town; much needed, of course!
Here are a couple of pictures of the stall, including one with Jean-Christophe Novelli, a Michelin-starred Chef in the UK, and the chief attraction of the event. He did long demonstrations on both Saturday and Sunday, as well as preparing and serving a buffet in Alnwick Castle on the Saturday evening.
Our Saturday talk and demonstration went off very well; the firm which provided camera and pa systems were first class, and it was a pleasure to take to the stage and talk, aware that the audience of at least 200 people could easily hear everything I said, and were able to see clearly what Ann and I were upto on stage, and see the PowerPoint presentation summarising the aim of the session, and the key points I was pulling out. Here are a few photos of the talk as it progressed. There are more photographs on flickr, here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/24731237@N03/sets/72157631611934276/
There has been lots of favourable publicity from the event; loads of tweets going out, and good press coverage too. Everyone has worked so hard; a particularly big thank you to Karen, but also to everyone else involved in any way, as the whole event was so well-organised.
I’m going to be absent from TFL throughout October. Work on the Dissertation has not progressed how I had hoped, and so I need to “go to ground” if I am going to get it finished in time. I’ll be back in November, and hoping to break into lots of new territory to drive my business forward…and hopefully spend my time baking lovely bread.
I began writing this account travelling back to the UK, as follows:
Monday 21st August 2012; 14:32, UK time.
As I start to write up this blog entry, Alison and I are sitting inside a somewhat cold steel tube, high up in the sky, somewhere over France, on our return to the UK. We have just spent 2 weeks on the lovely Greek island of Paxos, enjoying a wonderful holiday together and basking in temperatures into the high 30s, with permanent daytime sunshine. We believe we will be returning to the ubiquitous showers which we left behind, and which have constantly afflicted most of the UK all Summer-long, thus far.
At this time, I fear there could be some delay to my being able to post this entry for you all to read on the Fresh Loaf. Our Broadband Router had failed on the day of Codruta’s departure and the day before we left for Greece. I expect I will have to wait a few days for BT to send out a replacement device, so we can once again re-connect with the internet. Certainly our time on Paxos has kept me away from the worldwide web. I have just about managed to keep an eye on incoming e-mail, but not been able to reply to any. The dongle provided for me by Vodafone is a complete waste of time; I had more success with my very ordinary mobile phone accessing the internet, most of the time. Ho hum!
Side note, added later: Now back home in Ananda, and the Broadband is working fine; excellent!
Still, this post is meant to be positive, indeed celebratory, so enough of the negativity. Alison and I greatly enjoyed the company of Codruta for a week of relatively intense baking…and she even brought sunny weather for us to enjoy for the first time properly since March! Here is my account of our baking activities and other matters during Codruta’s visit back at the very beginning of August.
I met Codruta at the airport late on the Monday evening, having completed all the final plans for our baking activities leading to the Powburn Show, over that weekend, then fired my oven in preparation on the Monday, as well as building leavens, sourdoughs and other pre-ferments.
I rose early on Tuesday to fire the oven once again, with Codruta joining me soon after so we could begin to mix the 3 doughs for that day’s production, and enjoy fruit and coffee for breakfast before my bakery kitchen became too overwhelmed by dough matters! The first day we made Five Grain Levains, which is a Hamelman formula, moreorless but without the addition of bakers’ yeast; some Wholemeal Bloomers and some brown tinned loaves, both of which utilise a biga. Recipes and formulae for these products are included below, although I have not included detail of the levain and sour builds:
Make the sponge the night before and leave covered to ferment.
Calculate water temperature needed for DDT of 28°C. Combine Water and Wholemeal in the mixer, then autolyse for one hour.
Add the Salt, Fresh Yeast and Sponge and mix in an upright mixer with the hook attachment for 3 minutes on first speed and 6 minutes on second speed. Scrape down as necessary during mixing.
Bulk proof, maintaining the dough temperature @ 25°C for 2 - 3 hours with S&F after 1 hour, and 2 if needed.
Scale and divide. Mould, pre-shape and final shape.
Final proof @ 25°C for 1 hour
Bake in the wood-fired oven with steam.
Cool on wires.
3. Tinned Brown Bread
Yield: 7 loaves scaled @ 600g; 1 Pullman Pan @ 1100g and 1 small loaf with the remainder
Biga
Material
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
50
1650
Fresh Yeast
0.18
6
Water
30
990
TOTAL
80.18
2646
Material
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
Biga [as above]
80.18
2646
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
50
1650
Salt
1.8
60
Shortening
1.8
60
Yeast
1.8
60
Water @ 23°C
38
1254
TOTAL
173.6
5730
% pre-fermented flour
50
-
% overall hydration
68
-
% wholegrain flour
50 [85% extraction]
-
FACTOR
-
33
Method:
Mix biga with all other materials to form a strong dough: 3 minutes first speed, 5 – 6 minutes on second speed.
Bulk proof 1½ hours.
Scale and divide. Mould round and rest covered for 10 minutes.
Shape and place in ready-greased loaf tins.
Final Proof for 1 – 1½ hours.
Bake in wood-fired ovens.
Cool on wires
These are the photographs from our first two days of production. All of the photographs have been taken on Codruta’s very fine camera, by someone with far greater photography skills than I possess. I am very grateful to Codruta for giving me full access to the photographs she has taken.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDzTyngIFH0
As we worked away through our first days of production, I realised how much time Codruta devotes to social networking, sharing her baking activities and keeping up with so many other fine fellow-practitioners. Alison quickly realised that maybe, I am not quite such an obsessive as she had previously believed! Codruta posted photographs of the oven and of the breads as they emerged baked, straight on to her Facebook account. I was amazed as she told me just how many people were following our activities and contributing either by making comments on the photos, or listing them as “favourites”. The numbers kept on rising throughout the 4 days of baking too.
We managed to finish baking in good time on the first day; 27 loaves from 3 different doughs. Since 2 of these used bakers’ yeast, and the oven had benefitted from firing the day before, Alison encouraged us to get out into the sunshine and enjoy the lovely Northumberland countryside on our doorstep. We took a short drive, around 5km, to the head of the Ingram Valley to enjoy a lovely walk to Linhope Spout waterfall. The following 2 slideshows give great account of our walk.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9RfzZ7Znw8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGuger-A4Ys
The following 3 days were taken up entirely with baking. Whilst Wednesday’s production was similar in some ways to the previous day, we had 2 large batches of sour-dough based breads to make, and we had to prepare large amounts of levain, rye sourdough, biga, etc. to take to Leeds the next day. We made 29 loaves altogether, 3 different doughs, as shown below:
4. Roasted Brazil Nut and Prune Bread
Yields 8 loaves scaled @ 490g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Biga
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
20
400
Water
12
240
Fresh Yeast
0.2
4
TOTAL
32.2
644
2. Final Dough
Biga [from 1]
32.2
644
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
55
1100
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
25
500
Butter
5
100
Salt
1.6
32
Fresh Yeast
1.3
26
Water
56
1120
Soft Prunes
12.5
250
Brazil Nuts - toasted and chopped
12.5
250
TOTAL
201.1
4022
% pre-fermented flour
20
-
% overall hydration
68
-
% wholegrain flour
25
-
FACTOR
-
20
Method:
Prepare the Biga the night before.
Combine all the ingredients in the mixer except the fruit and nuts. Mix on first speed until clear, scraping down as needed. Mix for 6 minutes on second speed with the hook attachment. Rest the dough for 20 minutes then add the fruit and nuts and mix to clear using a Scotch cutter. DDT 28°C.
Bulk Ferment 1½ hours.
Scale and divide and mould round. Rest 15 minutes then shape as bloomers. Glaze with beaten egg.
Final proof 1½ hours.
Score the tops of the loaves with 3 diagonal cuts and bake in a pre-heated deck oven at 180°C with steam for 45 - 50 minutes.
Cool on wires.
5. Sourdough Seed Bread
Yield: 8 loaves @ 700g and 3 loaves @ 1000g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
20
840
Water
12
504
TOTAL
32
1344
1b. Soaker
Organic Flax Seed Blond
7
294
Cold Water
21
882
TOTAL
28
1176
1c. Tamari-Roasted Seeds
Organic Sunflower Seeds
6
252
Organic Pumpkin Seeds
6
252
Organic Sesame Seeds
6
252
Organic Tamari Soy Sauce
-
-
TOTAL
18
756
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1a]
32
1344
Soaker [from 1b]
28
1176
Tamari Roasted Seeds [from 1c]
18
756
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
30
1260
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
50
2100
Water
45
1890
Salt
1.79
75
TOTAL
204.79
8601
% pre-fermented flour
20
-
% overall hydration
78 on flour
63seeds + flour
% wholegrain flour
50
-
FACTOR
-
42
Method:
Build the levain from stock. Prepare the soaker the night before. Roast the seeds ahead of time to allow them to cool before adding to the dough.
In the mixer, combine the flour with the water and soaker and mix 3 minutes on first speed, scraping down to clear. Autolyse for 1 hour.
Add the salt and levain and mix 3 minutes on first speed and 5 minutes on second speed, scraping down as needed. Add the roasted seeds and mix on first speed to clear. DDT 28°C.
Prove in bulk for 2½ hours; stretch and fold after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare bannetons. Re-mould.
Dissolve the molasses into the warm water. Add the sourdough, seeds and salt, and then add the flour. Use an upright mixer with hook attachment, and mix for 12 – 15 minutes on first speed only. Scrape down the bowl as needed. DDT 25°C.
Bulk ferment 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould and rest 15 minutes, covered. Re-mould dough pieces and place in prepared bannetons.
Final proof 2½ hours.
Tip out onto a dusted peel and score a diamond pattern on the top of the loaf. Bake in a wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires.
We made a very early start the next morning, and managed to park up at the loading bay at Leeds City College, Thomas Danby Campus at exactly 08:00, as planned, after a rapid journey over 130 miles/210km in not much over 2 hours. Codruta slept some of this time, but we also planned what we needed to do immediately on arrival to set up the secondary fermentation process for all 3 rye breads we wanted to make, by mixing scalds and sponges. After that it was a quick breakfast and into full production.
Our time at Leeds was agreed and arranged with my long-time friend and colleague, Joe Cavalier, who manages all the Bakery provision at the College. We set the 2 days up so that some of his key teaching staff were able to work alongside Codruta and I, and thus gain important CPD [professional development], with specialist dough work aplenty on offer. Over the next 2 days, we made 3 types of Rye Bread [100% rye], 3 leavened breads in bannetons [2 with Gilchesters’ flours and one with a Type 80 Farine Biologique which Codruta’s Sister-in-Law had very kindly posted to me from Paris]; AND, we made Chollah, Spicy Buns, Laminated Pastries, plus Ciabattas and Focaccias.
Day One went by like a dream, and we drove east to visit my parents, near Bridlington, for an all-too-brief, but very enjoyable and comfortable overnight stop. Day Two proved to be more challenging for a number of reasons; however, this is all part of working life within the bakery, and I wanted Codruta to experience as much as possible during her time in the UK. Codruta has a great temperament; she is relaxed, yet totally hard working and dedicated. I know her bakery will be a great success when she finds a venue and begins production; it was a joy to have her to visit us, and I truly hope she learned all she hoped to when she first asked to come over.
Here is the detail on what we produced at Leeds; and a massive thanks to Joe and his teaching colleagues for making this happen, and for all the enthusiasm and expertise given during our time at the College; very much appreciated.
7. Gilchesters’ Farmhouse/Miche
30kg dough scaled off as loaves of 1350g, 950g and 700g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
25
4375
Water
15
2625
TOTAL
40
7000
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from above]
40
7000
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
75
13125
Salt
1.6
280
Water
58
10150
TOTAL
174.6
30555
% pre-fermented flour
25
-
% overall hydration
73
-
% wholegrain flour [approx 85% extraction]
75
-
FACTOR
175
Method:
Build leaven as schedule.
Using a Spiral Mixer, combine the Farmhouse flour and water for 3 minutes on first speed, then autolyse for 1 hour. Add leaven to Autolyse and mix for 5 minutes on first speed. Add the salt and mix a further 4 – 7 minutes on first speed. Scrape down the bowl as necessary. DDT 26°C.
Bulk proof 2½ hours; S&F after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould round. Rest 15 minutes, covered, and prepare the bannetons. Re-mould dough pieces and place upside down in bannetons.
Final proof 2 – 3 hours.
Score top with an “A” and bake on the sole of a deck oven with steam.
Cool on wires.
8. Gilchesters’ White Levain
17kg dough scaled off as loaves of 1350g, 950g and 700g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
35
3500
Water
21
2100
TOTAL
56
5600
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1 above]
56
5600
Gilchesters’ Organic Pizza/Ciabatta Flour
65
6500
Salt
1.6
160
Water
47
4700
TOTAL
169.6
16960
% pre-fermented flour
35
-
% overall hydration
68
-
% wholegrain flour
-
-
FACTOR
-
100
Method:
Build leaven as described.
Combine all the final dough materials in a spiral mixer on first speed for 3 minutes, scraping down the bowl and rotating as necessary. Mix a further 5 minutes on second speed to develop the dough. DDT 26°C.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours.
Scale, divide and mould. Rest 15 minutes and prepare bannetons. Re-mould and put into bannetons. Retard overnight.
Final proof 1½ hours.
Tip each loaf out onto the peel and score the top. Bake on the sole of a deck oven with steam.
Cool on wires.
9. Pain de Campagne with Wheat Levain and Rye Sourdough
14kg dough scaled off as loaves of 1350g, 950g and 700g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a Wheat Levain
60% hydration
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
28
2333
Water
16.8
1400
TOTAL
44.8
3733
1b Rye Sourdough
167% hydration
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
2
167
Water
3.3
275
TOTAL
5.3
442
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1a]
44.8
3733
Rye Sourdough [from 1b]
5.3
442
T80 Biologique
60
5000
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse
10
833
Salt
1.5
125
Water
50
4165
TOTAL
171.6
14298
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
69
-
% wholegrain flour
11.6
-
FACTOR
-
83.3
Method:
Prepare the levains as schedule. Make an “autolyse” with final dough flour and water plus the rye sourdough
Combine wheat levain and autolyse in the mixer on first speed for 5 minutes. Add the salt, mix 2 minutes on first and 3 minutes on second speed.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours; S&F after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale and divide; mould round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare large bannetons. Re-mould and set for final proof in bannetons.
Final proof 1½ hours. Pre-heat oven.
Tip onto peel, Bake in deck oven with steam.
Cool on wires.
10. Moscow Rye Bread
6 panned loaves
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a] Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
960
Water
50
1600
TOTAL
80
2560
1b] “Scald”
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
13
416
Red Rye Malt
7
224
Blackstrap Molasses
1
32
Caraway Seeds
0.1
3
Boiling Water
35
1120
TOTAL
56.1
1795
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
2560
“Scald” [from 1b]
56.1
1795
TOTAL
136.1
4355
3. Final Paste
“Sponge” [from 2]
136.1
4355
Shipton Mill Organic Light Rye Flour
50
1600
Salt
1.25
40
TOTAL
187.35
5995
% pre-fermented flour
30 + 20 = 50
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain flour
50 + 50[997]
-
FACTOR
-
32
Method:
Build the sourdough as described above. Make the “scald” as follows: combine the caraway and the red rye malt and dark rye flour. Weigh the molasses into a pan, add water and bring to a rolling boil. Tip this onto the flour mix, and add any extra boiling water if there is evaporation. Stir well to ensure full gelatinisation. Cover and cool.
Once sufficiently cool, add the scald to the sour to make the sponge. Cover and leave to ferment for 4 hours.
For the final paste combine the sponge with remaining flour and the salt, mix with the paddle beater in an upright machine, 2 minutes on first speed and 2 minutes on second speed. Scrape down the bowl to ensure thorough mixing.
Bulk proof for 1 hour with DDT at 28°C.
Scale and divide, shape and place in bread pans prepared with lining of shortening and coating of rye flour. Smooth off the top and attach lids.
Final proof for just 1 hour at 28°C, then bake.
Pre-heat the oven to 280°C. Load the pans, apply steam, and leave for 10 minutes. Then turn the oven down to 100°C. Keep a supply of steam in the oven and bake for a total of 6 to 16 hours. Or bake in the dead wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
11. Borodinsky using the Auerman Process
6 panned loaves
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a] Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
900
Water
50
1500
TOTAL
80
2400
1b] “Scald”
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
15
450
Red Rye Malt
5
150
Blackstrap Molasses
6
180
Crushed Coriander Seeds
1
30
Boiling Water
35
1050
TOTAL
62
1860
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
2400
“Scald” [from 1b]
62
1860
TOTAL
142
4260
3. Final Paste
“Sponge” [from 2]
142
4260
Shipton Organic Light Rye Flour [997]
50
1500
Salt
1.2
36
TOTAL
193.2
5796
% pre-fermented flour
30 + 20 = 50
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain flour
50 [+ 50 type997]
-
FACTOR
-
30
Method:
Build the sourdough as described above. Make the “scald” as follows: crush the coriander and add it to the red rye malt and dark rye flour. Weigh the molasses into a pan, add water and bring to a rolling boil. Tip this onto the flour mix, and add any extra boiling water if there is evaporation. Stir well to ensure full gelatinisation. Cover and cool.
Once sufficiently cool, add the scald to the sour to make the sponge. Cover and leave to ferment for 4 hours @ 35°C.
For the final paste combine the sponge with remaining flour and the salt, mix with the paddle beater in an upright machine, 2 minutes on first speed and 2 minutes on second speed. Scrape down the bowl to ensure thorough mixing.
Bulk proof for 2 hours with DDT at 28°C.
Scale and divide into 6. Shape and drop into Sandwich Pans, prepared with lining of shortening and coating of rye flour. Smooth off and top with freshly crushed Coriander seeds, then apply lids.
Final proof for 2 hours at 28°C, then bake.
Pre-heat the oven to 280°C. Load the pans; apply steam, after 10 minutes turn the oven down to 110°C. Keep a supply of steam in the oven and bake for 6 hours.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
12. Black Pumpernickel Bread
6 panned loaves
Material
Formula [% of “flour”]
Recipe [grams]
1a. Rye Sour Dough
Dark Rye Flour
30
900
Water
50
1500
TOTAL
80
2400
1b. “Altus”
Old Rye Bread
11
330
Hot Water
15
450
Blackstrap Molasses
4
120
TOTAL
30
900
1c. Soaked, Cooked Rye Berries
Whole Rye Berries
20
600
Water
20
600
TOTAL
40
1200
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
2400
“Altus” [from 1b]
30
900
Soaked, Cooked Rye Berries
40
1200
TOTAL
150
4500
3. Final Paste
Sponge [from 2]
150
4500
Salt
1.6
48
Rye Flakes
25
750
Light Rye
25
750
TOTAL
201.6
6048
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain
75 [+ 25]
[Light Rye 997]
FACTOR
-
30
Method:
Build the sour according to the schedule. For the “Altus”, dissolve the molasses in the hot water, then soak the bread in the liquor overnight. Soak the whole rye grain overnight in cold water. Wash the grain through, and then simmer for 45 minutes. The cooked grain should have no residual liquid, and it should double in weight from original weighing.
To make the “sponge”, combine sourdough, Altus and cooked grains and store, covered, for 4 hours at 35°C.
To make the final paste, add salt, light rye flour and chopped rye grains to the sponge.
Bulk ferment at 32 - 35°C for 1 hour.
Scale and divide into large Pullman Pans and attach lids.
Final proof for 1 hour at 35°C, then bake.
Pre-heat the oven to 280°C. Load the pan, apply steam, and turn the oven down to 110°C. Keep a supply of steam in the oven and bake for a total of 4½ - 6 hours.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
In the end it was not possible to bake the loaves overnight. So we baked them through before going on to East Yorkshire. I am afraid I rather over baked these loaves as a result!
13. Ciabatta/Focaccia
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a. Biga
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
30
1380
Water
18
828
Fresh Yeast
0.2
9
TOTAL
48.2
2217
1b. Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
3
138
Water
5
230
TOTAL
8
368
2a. Final Dough – “Bassinage”
Biga – from 1a above]
48.2
2217
Rye Sourdough – from 1b above]
8
368
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
20
920
Gilchesters’ Organic Ciabatta Flour
40
1840
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
4
184
Gilchesters’ Organic Coarse Semolina
3
138
Salt
1.78
82
Fresh Yeast
2.72
125
Water
43
1978
TOTAL
170.7
7852
2b Final Dough – super-hydration
Final Dough – “Bassinage”
170.78
7852
Water
19
874
TOTAL
189.78
8726
% pre-fermented flour
33
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% “wholegrain”
9
-
FACTOR
-
46
To make: 12 “Ciabatta” loaves and 2 full sheets of “Rosemary and “Rock Salt Focaccia”
14. Spicy Buns
48 buns @ 70g each
Material
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe[grams]
1. FERMENT
Strong White Bread Flour
20
240
Caster Sugar
5
60
Fresh Yeast
8
96
Water @ 38°C
45
540
TOTAL
78
936
2. FINAL DOUGH
Ferment [from above]
78
936
Strong White Bread Flour
80
960
Salt
1
12
Milk Powder
8
96
Butter
15
180
Egg
15
180
Caster Sugar
15
180
Cinnamon
1
12
Nutmeg
1
12
Sultanas
33
396
Raisins
17
204
Mixed Peel
17
204
TOTAL
281
3372
3. STOCK SYRUP
Caster Sugar
-
150
Water
-
150
FACTOR
-
12
Method:
Make the sponge [flying ferment]: Weigh out the water, making sure temperature is correct. Dissolve the yeast into the water. Add the flour and sugar, and whisk to a smooth batter. Cover and leave in a warm place for 45 minutes
Weigh the other ingredients: blend the flour with the other dry ingredients. Cut the butter into small pieces and rub roughly through the dry ingredients. Weigh the egg separately. Weigh the dried fruit separately.
Add the egg and dry ingredients to the risen sponge, and combine to form a soft and strong dough. Mix for 3 minutes on first speed and 8 minutes on second speed to develop, scraping down the bowl as necessary.
Rest the dough for 20 minutes, and then use a metal cutter to cut through the dough and add the fruit.
Rest the dough for 40 minutes. Scale and divide into 70g pieces
Mould each dough piece round, and rest covered for 15 minutes. Prepare 3 baking sheets for the oven. Pre-heat the oven [180°C, or, 160°C for a fan oven]
Re-mould dough pieces and tray-up on baking sheets lined with silicone paper [baking parchment]. Brush the tops of the dough pieces with beaten egg and cover.
Final proof in a warm environment for 1½ to 2 hours.
Bake for 15 – 20 minutes
Glaze with sugar syrup immediately after baking.
Cool on wires.
15. Chollah; 6 and 8 Strand Plaits
4 of each
MATERIAL
% OF FLOUR
GRAMS
1. FERMENT
Strong White Bread Flour
20
800
Water @ 38°C
32
1280
Fresh Yeast
8
320
Sugar
5
200
TOTAL
65
2600
2.FINAL DOUGH
Ferment
65
2600
Strong White Bread Flour
80
3200
Milk Powder
5
200
Salt
1
40
Sugar
5
200
Butter
10
400
Eggs
28
1120
TOTAL
194
7760
Oven profile: bake in the deck oven at 175°C, top heat 6, bottom heat 5 for 28 minutes. No steam, draw the damper for the last 5 minutes
Method:
Whisk all the ingredients for the ferment together in a steel bowl.
Cover with cling film and set in a warm place for half an hour.
Mix all the ingredients, together with the ferment, in an upright machine with a hook; 2 minutes on first speed, then scrape down; 6 minutes on 3rd speed. A spiral mixer is a good alternative.
Rest, covered, for 15 minutes, then scale into 970g pieces and divide each into 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 equal sized pieces, depending on the number of strands in your plait. Try to avoid using any flour on the bench during this and subsequent stages.
Mould round, cover and rest 5 minutes.
Line trays with silicone paper. Roll out strands to 11” and plait according to instructions.
Double brush with beaten egg. Top with poppy seeds. Set to prove.
Prove 50 – 60 minutes at 35 - 40°C, 85%rH.
Bake as oven profile.
Cool on wires.
16. Croissant Dough
We made a selection of Croissants, Pain Amandes, Pain aux Chocolats and some Palmiers. We made the croissant dough on day one, and refrigerated overnight, laminating the dough to make the final products on day two.
MATERIAL
FORMULA [% OF FLOUR]
RECIPE [GRAMS]
Strong White Flour
100
2400
Salt
1.3
32
Milk Powder
5
120
Yeast
6
144
Cold Water
63
1512
SUB-TOTAL
175.3
4208
Concentrated Butter
41.7
1000
TOTAL
217
5208
Method:
Mix the ingredients for the dough to form cool, developed dough.
Put in a plastic bag in the chiller and retard overnight. Roll out the slab of butter and put back in the chiller.
Roll the dough out to a rectangle 8mm thick. Put the butter slab onto 2/3 of the rectangle, and fold in 3, letter style.
Turn the dough piece clockwise through 90°. Roll out to the same size as before, fold as above, and turn. Repeat once more.
Chill the billet for half an hour and give 2 more folds and half turns as described. This gives 168 layers of butter in the croissant dough. Chill again for half an hour.
Roll the dough piece out to 5mm and use a croissant cutter to cut out triangle shapes. Stack into piles of 6 and rest covered for 2-3 minutes.
Tease out each triangle, fold up the top edge and roll up tightly. Roll out the feet to pointed ends and move round so these feet join up to make the classic shape.
Place on silicone lined baking sheets and brush with beaten egg.
Prove at 38-40°C, 80%rH for 40 minutes.
Bake in a hot oven, 235°C for 12-15 minutes
This is a longer slideshow covering our baking activities in Leeds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVtUz_2I_jY
We hurried back up north after a completely full-on day to rendezvous with Alison plus her Sister, Beverley, and her daughter, Eve. They go to Powburn Show every year, with Eve keen to take part in a number of the competitions taking place; including the wrestling! We went to our nearest good pub, the Tankerville Arms, at Eglingham, for some great food and I enjoyed some fine local ale.
However, I had to rise very early in order to finish off all of the display work and the price list to take to the Show the next day.
The weather was perfect, in contrast to last year. It took 2 car loads to transport all the bread to the Show, and I had a customer in between deliveries, coming to visit me at home, all the way from Edinburgh.
Our next-door neighbour, Anna, has been a great supporter of the Bread and Roses venture, and she came along as a key part of the day’s sales team….I can’t thank you enough, Anna!
And, we sold a lot of bread and baked goodies on the day. To finish a very long post, here are some photographs of the stall, and the team in action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8D8IT4n_crI
Thank you so much to all involved: Joe and the Leeds team, my parents, Anna, to Shuffles, Beverley and Eve. To Alison of course, for her love, and never-ending patience. And to Codruta; we so enjoyed having you to stay.
Hello from Sunny Northumberland [a pleasant but temporary change!]
I drove down to visit my brother, all too briefly, on Tuesday. He had some wood for me; a lot of wood, very dry and cut in good-sized lengths for my oven!
We filled the car up with all this wood, then he reminded me about a steam-stripper he was looking onto, which he showed me how to turn into a device to use in my bread oven. So, I brought that back to Powburn too!
Today, in surprise sunshine, I made Gilchesters' Miches, Moscow Rye Breads and Spicy Buns. A slideshow is below for you to watch. And, the oven was hot!
Tomorrow, early doors, I am driving to Nigel's house so we can spend the day baking more bread for Hexham. I am ready to make 26kg of Gilchesters' dough, plus 9kg Moscow Rye. Nigel will be making around 20kg of White dough, and the same of Linseed and Light Rye. The weather forecast is dire. Still, I am optimistic about Saturday's market. I also have some Croissants and Pain au Chocolats to tempt people with too.
Here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DtPm7Nsmu0&feature=youtu.be
Happy Baking!
Andy
ps. And some crumbshots of the Gilchesters' Miche; so tasty from the heat of the oven!
Given my flour delivery was put back a week, and the weather has done nothing except rain here in the UK, seemingly incessantly, and forever, my baking schedule has been somewhat interfered with.
So, here are a few loaves I've baked recently. The Gilchesters' loaves were made today, and I will repeat again tomorrow as I dive into a dissertation on UK Organic Wheat, and prepare for a trip to Dunbar in Southern Scotland to introduce a training programme at a great local Bakery Co-operative
Borodinsky using the Auerman Process
Rye Sour build:
Day/Date
Time
Stock
D Rye
Water
TOTAL
Temp °C
Weds 13th June
20:00
40
300
500
840
30
Saturday 16th June
18:30
840
450
750
2040
30
Final Paste:
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a] Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
750
Water
50
1250
TOTAL
80
2000
1b] “Scald”
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
15
375
Red Rye Malt
5
125
Blackstrap Molasses
6
150
Crushed Coriander Seeds
1
25
Boiling Water
35
875
TOTAL
62
1550
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
2000
“Scald” [from 1b]
62
1550
TOTAL
142
3550
3. Final Paste
“Sponge” [from 2]
142
3550
Shipton Organic Light Rye Flour [997]
50
1250
Salt
1.2
30
TOTAL
193.2
4830
% pre-fermented flour
30 + 20 = 50
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain flour
50 [+ 50 type997]
-
FACTOR
-
25
Method:
Build the sourdough as described above. Make the “scald” as follows: crush the coriander and add it to the red rye malt and dark rye flour. Weigh the molasses into a pan, add water and bring to a rolling boil. Tip this onto the flour mix, and add any extra boiling water if there is evaporation. Stir well to ensure full gelatinisation. Cover and cool.
Once sufficiently cool, add the scald to the sour to make the sponge. Cover and leave to ferment for 4 hours @ 35°C.
For the final paste combine the sponge with remaining flour and the salt, mix with the paddle beater in an upright machine, 2 minutes on first speed and 2 minutes on second speed. Scrape down the bowl to ensure thorough mixing.
Bulk proof for 2 hours with DDT at 28°C.
Scale and divide into 5. Shape and drop into 5 Sandwich Pans, prepared with lining of shortening and coating of rye flour. Smooth off and top with freshly crushed Coriander seeds, then apply lids.
Final proof for 2 hours at 28°C, then bake.
Pre-heat the oven to 280°C. Load the pans, apply steam, after 10 minutes turn the oven down to 110°C, and move to Convection setting. Keep a supply of steam in the oven and bake for 6 hours.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
This is a video demonstrating how best to scale these loaves, and shape them for the pans. In years gone by at Village Bakery, a team of 2 bakers would produce 2 x 150kg batches of this type of Rye paste and scale it off in this way.
Combine all the ingredients in the mixer except the fruit and nuts. Mix on first speed until clear, scraping down as needed. Mix for 6 minutes on second speed with the hook attachment. Rest the dough for 20 minutes then add the fruit and nuts and mix to clear using a Scotch cutter. DDT 28°C.
Bulk Ferment 1½ hours.
Scale and divide into 3 x 1kg pieces; mould round. Rest 15 minutes then shape as bloomers. Glaze with beaten egg.
Final proof 1½ hours.
Score the tops of the loaves with 4 diagonal cuts and bake in a pre-heated electric oven at 170°C with convection for 55 minutes.
Cool on wires.
Both the Borodinsky and the Toasted Brazil Nut and Prune Breads were lovely. My apologies, the photographs don't really tell the best story. It seems to be permanently dark in our house at the moment...and it was our longest day very recently too!!
Gilchesters’ Miche
Makes 2 loaves @ 1350g
Levain build:
Day
Time
Stock Levain
White Flour
Water
Total
Temp °C
Saturday 23rd June
21:30
40
400
240
680
18
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
25
400
Water
15
240
TOTAL
40
640
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from above]
40
640
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
75
1200
Salt
1.6
24
Water
58
928
TOTAL
174.6
2792
% pre-fermented flour
25
-
% overall hydration
73
-
% wholegrain flour [approx 85% extraction]
75
-
FACTOR
-
16
Method:
Build leaven as schedule.
Mix Farmhouse flour and water for 3 minutes on first speed, then autolyse for 1 hour. Add leaven to Autolyse and mix for 5 minutes on first speed. Add the salt and mix a further 4 – 7 minutes on first speed. Scrape down the bowl as necessary. DDT 24°C.
Bulk proof 3 hours; S&F after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould round. Rest 15 minutes, covered, and prepare the bannetons. Re-mould dough pieces and place upside down in bannetons.
Final proof 2 – 3 hours.
Score top with an “A” and bake in a pre-heated electric oven at 250°C with steam for 10 minutes. Switch to convection, drop the heat to 200°C and bake a further 30 minutes. Drop the heat to 160°C and bake out 12 - 15 minutes.
Cool on wires.
Crumb shots!
This all leaves me with a good bit of baking to do next week as the Alnwick Farmers' Market takes place on Friday. After that, it's Hexham on Saturday week.
The Summer looks busy; Alnwick Farmers' Market end of July; Powburn Show early August, more on this soon; holiday on Paxos for 2 weeks; August Farmers' Market; Bank Holiday party for friend's 50th. Then in September it's Alnwick Food Festival, where I'm doing a presentation and taking a stall along with my colleague Ann from Doughworks [ http://www.doughworks.co.uk/ ]
Alnwick Farmers’ Market; Bread and Roses, May 2012 The sun has been shining in the UK this week, and, finally it is warm here; not before time! Yesterday and today’s baking have produced some very tasty breads plus other treats too [croissants, pain au chocolats, pain amandes and spicy buns]! I laid out my produce this evening and came up with 70 loaves plus the aforementioned treats. There are Gilchesters’ breads made with local flour plus levain, seeded breads and 5 grain breads with levain, an assortment of rye such as Seigle d’Auvergne, Pain de Siègle de Thézac, Moscow Rye and Black Pumpernickel, plus yeasted varieties, wholemeal bloomers, brown tin loaves and chollah I have already posted formulae for all these breads. But, here is a slideshow to summarise the last 2 days, working away at my home, “Ananda” in Powburn, Northumberland. See:
A lot to write about, I suppose, given I have not managed to post a blog entry for almost nine weeks, mainly because I have been so busy, and tied up with so many baking-related activities.
The March Farmers’ Market in Alnwick was a big success; the sun shone all day long, and my stall caught everybody’s attention as it was facing straight at the towns’ shoppers on entry to the Market Square. I sold out of bread in just over 2 hours.
Alison and I took the long drive to NW Scotland the next day after the Market, for a week’s holiday. The beautiful weather we had enjoyed for most of March was breaking, so our time in Sutherland brought snow, wind and sleet, as well as sunshine. Our holiday cottage had an old-fashioned stove with an endless supply of fuel to burn. The kitchen had some wonderful “le Creuset” pans, so I decided to experiment with the Dutch oven methods of baking oft mentioned on TFL.
I had taken my Rye Sourdough culture plus Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye and Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal. I baked twice through the week, and made the same loaf each time, naming it “Rye and Wholewheat Holiday Bread”, with an “H” cut into the top. Here are the essential details:
Rye and Wholewheat Holiday Bread
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Rye Sourdough
Stock
40
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
150
Water
50
250
TOTAL
80
440
Returned to stock
40
2. Final Dough
Rye Sourdough [from 1]
80
400
Marriages Organic Strong Wholemeal
70
350
Salt
1.6
8
Water
35
175
TOTAL
186.6
933
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain
100
-
FACTOR
-
5
Method:
Build the sourdough to the required quantity. I used 2 refreshments over 36 hours.
Mix sourdough with water and flour; cover and autolyse 50 minutes.
Add salt and develop by mixing by hand for 10 minutes.
Bulk proof for 2 hours; S&F after one hour
Pre-shape, then prepare a banneton. Final shape.
Final Proof for one hour.
Pre-heat Electric fan oven containing Le Creuset Roasting pot and lid for one hour to 240°C. Also set a pan of hot stones in the bottom of the oven prior to pre-heating.
Flour the base of the hot Le Creuset pot and tip the proved loaf gently into the pot. Flour the top if needed, then score an “H” for holiday into the top. Load the lidded pot to the oven and apply steam. Turn the heat to 200°C after 15 minutes. Take the lid off after another 15 minutes and bake out for another 10 – 15 minutes. Turn the oven off and leave the loaf inside for 10 minutes with the door wedged ajar.
Cool on wires.
What was special? This is a 100% wholegrain loaf, with 85% hydration. Our sandwiches, enjoyed out “in the hills” were joyful. Here is a brief reminder of an amazing part of the world which we both love so much.
I revised my Hot Cross Bun recipe, finally giving in and cutting down on the liquid content, which was excessive. Freshly ground spices; they are divine! Formula:
HOT CROSS/SPICY BUNS
Makes 36 buns @ 70g
Material
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe[grams]
1. FERMENT
Strong White Bread Flour
20
180
Caster Sugar
5
45
Fresh Yeast
8
72
Water @ 38°C
45
405
TOTAL
78
702
2. FINAL DOUGH
Ferment [from above]
78
702
Strong White Bread Flour
80
720
Salt
1
9
Milk Powder
8
72
Butter
15
135
Egg
15
135
Caster Sugar
15
135
Cinnamon
1
9
Nutmeg
1
9
Sultanas
33
297
Raisins
17
153
Mixed Peel
17
153
TOTAL
281
2529
3. CROSSING PASTE
White Flour
150
Shortening
35
Water
200
4. STOCK SYRUP
Caster Sugar
150
Water
150
FACTOR
9
Method:
Make the sponge [flying ferment]: Weigh out the water, making sure temperature is correct. Dissolve the yeast into the water. Add the flour and sugar, and whisk to a smooth batter. Cover and leave in a warm place for 45 minutes
Weigh the other ingredients: blend the flour with the other dry ingredients. Cut the butter into small pieces and rub roughly through the dry ingredients. Weigh the egg separately. Weigh the dried fruit separately.
Add the egg and dry ingredients to the risen sponge, and combine to form a soft and strong dough. Mix for 3 minutes on first speed and 8 minutes on second speed to develop, scraping down the bowl as necessary.
Rest the dough for 20 minutes, then use a metal cutter to cut through the dough and add the fruit.
Rest the dough for 40 minutes. Scale and divide into 70g pieces
Mould each dough piece round, and rest covered for 15 minutes. Prepare 3 baking sheets for the oven. Pre-heat the oven [180°C, or, 160°C for a fan oven]
Re-mould dough pieces and tray-up 4 x 3 on baking sheets lined with silicone paper [baking parchment]. Brush the tops of the dough pieces with beaten egg and cover.
Final proof in a warm environment for 1½ to 2 hours.
Pipe on crosses for HotXBuns.
Bake for 15 – 20 minutes
Glaze with sugar syrup immediately after baking
Cool on wires
The April Farmers’ Market was equally successful; I took record takings, and had one loaf left to give to my business adviser who I was able to meet up with after the market closed to discuss a potentially very exciting new business opportunity currently being explored.
Early in May we set out on a new Farmers’ Market adventure with a partnership with an old friend and business colleague who has built a fabulous wood-fired oven in his garden in Ryton, on the edge of the very lovely Tyne Valley. I have posted on this before, here: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/27794/development-day-work-nigel-13th-march-2012
My friend Nigel is making some White Levain breads and some Golden Linseed and Light Rye breads. I am making Moscow Rye and Gilchesters’ Miche, which I have posted on before…a number of times. We made just short of 100 loaves. Moving forward our aim is to make 150 loaves. Hexham is a lovely, historic town in the west of Northumberland, and trade at the Farmers’ Market is brisk…weather permitting!! We enjoyed sunshine and had sold out by lunchtime. Very good vibes!
Now I am building up stock ready for the next Alnwick Farmers’ Market on Friday. I’ve made Moscow Rye and some Black Pumpernickel breads in pans to keep the non-wheat people happy, as well as plenty of Gilchesters’ type breads. Today I spent some time perfecting a Pain de Campagne recipe using 2 leavens. I have posted similar before, but here are the details:
20th May 2012
Pain de Campagne with Rye Sourdough and Wheat Levain
Rye Sour Refreshment:
Day/date
Time
Sour [g]
Dark Rye [g]
Water [g]
TOTAL [g]
Temp °C
Sat 19 May
15:00
40
200
120
360
28°C
Wheat Levain Refreshment:
Day/Date
Time
Levain
Bread Flour
Water
Total
Temp °C
Sat 19 May
15:00
40
160
96
296
22°C
Sat 19 May
18:00
296
200
120
616
22°C
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a Wheat Levain
60% hydration
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
22.5
360
Water
13.5
216
TOTAL
36
576
1b Rye Sourdough
167% hydration
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
7.5
120
Water
12.5
200
TOTAL
20
320
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1a]
36
576
Rye Sourdough [from 1b]
20
320
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
50
800
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
20
320
Salt
1.5
24
Water
43
688
TOTAL
170.5
2728
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
69
-
% wholegrain flour
27.5
-
FACTOR
-
16
Method:
Prepare the levains as schedule. Make a cold “autolyse” with final dough flour and water plus the rye sourdough. Chill the autolyse and the wheat levain overnight.
Combine wheat levain and autolyse in the mixer on first speed for 5 minutes. Add the salt, mix 2 minutes on first and 3 minutes on second speed.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours; S&F after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale and divide [2 @ 1400g]; mould round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare 2 large bannetons. Re-mould and set for final proof in bannetons.
Final proof 1½ hours. Pre-heat oven.
Tip onto peel, cut the top of the loaf and mist with water spray; set on stone in the oven. Apply steam. Set into oven at 280°C, no fan. Set heat to 250°C. Mist loaf after 10 minutes and top up steam if needed. After another 10 minutes, switch to convection and drop heat to 200°C for 20 minutes. Drop heat to 180°C and bake out a further 10 – 15 minutes.
And last week a local cookery writer came to visit and do a day of baking with me. Her enthusiasm was infectious, and I tested both the wood-fired oven and electric oven to the limit, making Seigle d’Auvergne, Gilchesters’ White loaves, Wholemeal Bloomers, Moscow Rye panned loaves and Spicy Buns [as a featured recipe]. Busy day! For more on Jane Lovett, see here: http://www.janelovett.com/
Honestly, there is a lot more than this going on just now, and it is making it impossible for me to post as much as I have done in the past. My apologies for that. Still, I promise to keep everyone up to speed on the Bread and Roses baking ventures, somehow or other.
Oh! Alison’s booked our holidays too: we are off to Paxos in August for 2 weeks. It’s the Powburn Show just before we go, and Alnwick Farmers’ Market shortly after we return! Then it’s the Food Festival in Alnwick in September and I have a Guest Speaker slot. Hopefully, I will have completed my Dissertation too and be looking forward to a trip to London to celebrate being awarded a Master’s Degree. That is sometime away, and a lot will happen in between times.